Skopelos and Alonissos, Northern Sporades

We spent our last night in the Gulf of Volos in a smalll fishing harbour
called Pigadhi. As there was plenty of room we tied up alongside the
concrete quay instead of anchoring off. Tourism has mostly passed it
by, with just a few Greek holiday apartments and tavernas.
We had a lovely meal on the waterfront of simple steamed king prawns,
anchovies fried in flour, and Greek salad. There was lots of heads and
tails to feed to the local cats who are always sat just within reach, in
case of leftovers. They ate everything we offered, and later one jumped
on board in the night and showed their gratitude by visiting the cockpit
and spraying all over and leaving a pile of poo! Now I know why we
anchor everywhere, it deters all sorts of unwelcome guests.

Leaving the Gulf of Volos, we headed across to the islands of the
Northern Sporades, first stop the beach resort of Koukounaries,on
Skiathos, according to some, one of the best beaches of the Aegean. Well
I guess it's OK if you like to be lined up like sardines on sunbeds, and
listen to waterskis and fizz boats all day. Our advice is to keep going
east and leave Skiathos to the droves of package holiday tourists, and
head for Skopelos where the beaches are simply divine. We have not yet
seen the film Mama Mia, but this is where it was filmed, and the island
is enjoying the increased tourist euros that result from extra interest
in their island. We had a special meal at a restaurant called Agnanti in
Glossa, the old town 300m above the little port of Loutraki, the first
'decent' or non-taverna meal we've had in Greece. It was a serious climb
up the steep path, but well worth the effort, even if we arrived sweaty
and crumpled at the posh restaurant.
The beaches south of Loutraki are really special, the best we've seen in
Greece, or even the Med to date. The colours of the forested slopes,
clear sky and sparkling water defy all attempts at capturing them with
the camera, and they are virtually empty. In our opinion the islands are
much more attractive than the Ionian, and less exploited.
Tonight we are in an anchorage called Ormos Rousoumi next to the tiny
town of Patitiri on Alonissos. The island is home to some wealthy
expats, we believe, so the shops are more inspiring than the usual
tourist tat, but way beyond our simple means. I (Steph) had a haircut
brought about by desperation after the ravages of sun and swimming all
season. It took all of 5 minutes including wash and sort of dry. No Tony
and Guy or Scissors here, just the one choice, like it or lump it!
We've booked our winter home from 1st November which will be Finike in
Turkey. This leaves us 350-500 miles (depending on how many islands we
visit) to go in 6 weeks. The nearest airport will be Antalya, if anyone
is hoping to visit us there.
Despite Finike being southeast, we still have a few islands to visit to
the northeast in a marine reserve, and then we are hoping for a
downhill, downwind blast through the islands to Turkey.

6th September 08