Naxos

26 September 08
A short but satisfyingly breezy sail to Naxos, we anchored in the
shelter of the man-made breakwater. We spent the evening pottering
around the old town, another warren of alleys and arches within the
fortified walls. It was a Venetian duchy for 300 years and the houses
surrounding the old church at the top of the hill still are marked with
the coat of arms of the Venetian families, some of whose ancestors still
live there. One ground floor was given over to an antique shop, so we
could see the internal timber ceilings/floors. Four marble pillars
supported the ceiling, recycled from the former citadel that the
Venetians replaced.
We were looking forward to exploring further the next day, not least
because this is the island of Dionysus, the god of wine, and we were
hoping to taste some examples with a view to stocking up.
Unfortunately, while we were discussing our plans for the day, the port
police representative came alongside with much whistle-blowing and told
us we must leave because 'no anchoring is allowed here'.
We politely told him that our pilot book and charts show it as an
anchorage, but he said ' It is a new rule! Only for swimming now! If you
want to stay you must go to the marina!' Without a doubt he is in the
pay of the now privatised marina, which having empty berths was keen to
encourage yachts not to anchor. Along with two other yachts treated to
the same instruction, we all left, refusing to pay for something we
don't need, and so depriving the tavernas and shops of Naxos of the
tourist €'s from at least 8 people. We all disappeared to other islands,
which was probably not what the port police/marina had in mind leaving
the 400m long unbuoyed bay, sorry, 'swimming area' to the 1 or 2 brave
souls paddling on the beach.