Douglas bay (left) and Prince Rupert Bay (right) from the top of Cabrits National Park |
As we approached Prince Rupert Bay a boat 'boy' came over a mile out in an open boat to greet us. There is a small group of registered guides, and one of the them will adopt you as you come in. Ours was called Albert. All they ask is our business for the Indian River trip and they can organise day tours, guided hikes etc for which they get a cut. They are full of information on the local area, and to be registered they will have attended classes teaching them all about local fauna and flora.
Albert is hardly a boy, he has been guiding for 28 years! Nowadays he says the young ones go to college in order to be a guide. Dominica has 28.8% unemployment, so it is quite something to be a guide and have access to the tourist dollar. Fortunately most people still have a bit of land, or a back yard and can grow their own produce, so they don't suffer so hard in their unemployment, as other places where they have concreted over their yard, as in Barbados.
A banana plant is deflowered! .The blue bags protect them from insects and reduces marking on our perfect yellow fruit. |
With the stupid supermarket prices wars, some of these plantations will not survive, as non-mechanised production is labour intensive and not competitive. Then more unemployment in Dominica.
Everyone is so friendly and welcoming on the island. It missed the development of massive slash and burn clearance for plantations, as it is so mountainous, and it missed the beach holiday boom by not having beautiful sandy beaches, and now with a young (37) and enlightened prime minister the country is going for the eco-tourism dollar. Since they have more virgin rain forest than anywhere else in the Caribbean they have a unique opportunity to exploit it in the right way. A network of tracks has been cleared, using some old slave tracks (used by slaves to hide in the mountains) and it is now possible, since December 2011, to walk the entire length of the island through varied terrain, rain forest, to plantation, to dry new forest in the north west where the English established a fort to protect our interests from the French in the 18th century.
Here in early March we were still experiencing the 'Christmas winds', or enhanced trade winds of 20 knots. Someone forget to tell the wind that Santa has gone! As we anchored in the bay we were screeched at by an American boat who wanted to have the entire bay to themselves it seemed. Albert stood by in his little boat while we moved anchor yet again to get away from the 'screecher'. Albert came on board for a beer, and discussed river trip options, and gave us lots of information about the island and things to do.
Early next morning someone came on the VHF radio – 'Catamaran adrift! Catamaran adrift!' I looked out the window and there was indeed a catamaran off it's mooring, sailing across the wind of it's own accord, no-one on board, heading straight for the middle of Matador. I hastily jumped up to the cockpit to start the engine and push us forward out of it's way, but luckily the wind swung us round and the cat passed just behind us, on it's way to the beach, where it grounded. Seemed someone had not secured the ropes to the mooring properly. The boat boys were out in force by this time hauling it off the beach with no harm done, and towing it back to the mooring to re-secure it. The owner was blissfully unaware on a river trip.
At the same time another yacht was motoring around, still with a mooring buoy attached to the bow – no doubt the mooring line had snapped underwater. We are often encouraged to use mooring buoys to generate income for someone, and protect the seagrass on the bottom, but we've seen far too many casualties of mooring failures to trust them. We always use our own anchor and chain, and we know when it is set for a secure nights sleep – just a shame about all the others that don't! We always choose a sandy spot to anchor so we don't damage any coral.
Albert – our boat 'boy' and guide for the Indian River. |
(River trip $50EC per person).
River crab playing peek-a-boo |
Albert enjoys a nap while we look for wildlife up the river path |
A second day we joined a trip organised through our friend's boat-boy, Alexis, with Stanley as driver and guide. In a very clean and tidy minibus we toured the north half of the island on a 9 hour trip ($100EC pp). It was an excellent and really informative trip, and we learned to recognise the many sources of food that Dominica has in abundance – bay trees, cinnamon, coffee, cocoa, papaya, grapefruits, bananas, plantain, dasheen, yam, lemongrass. Information overload.
Cocoa |
Cashew |
We passed through a reserve where 3700 Carib indians live. They originally came from the Orinoco river in dugout canoes, and settled throughout the islands about 100 years before Colombus and his kind came and wiped out the local 'resistance'. The Caribs in turn were warlike people who had already displaced (and eaten) the original Arawak population of the Caribbean. Very few Caribs survive, and here they have their own reserve, own schools, and love a life close to nature. They are very skilled at basket weaving and carving, so there is lots of local authentic tourist tat for sale. One of only a few places where the souvenirs are not 'made in China'.
A short walk, and rope assisted climb over a short, steep ridge found us at the base of Spanny falls, and a quick dip was in order in the refreshing cool water.
A short walk, and rope assisted climb over a short, steep ridge found us at the base of Spanny falls, and a quick dip was in order in the refreshing cool water.
Mike, Pete, Courtney, Claire at Chaudiere pool |
During our 2 week stay in Dominica we did 6 hikes, 3 BBQs, 2 music nights (with Pete and Courtney from Norna) watched 2 weekends of 6 nations rugby, and had a very sociable time indeed.
Pete and Courtney introduced us to their friends, a family of mum dad and 3 small kids, who live in a tree-house, with woven walls and a big fire to cook on downstairs. Dean really is close to nature, they eat off banana leaves, drink from bowls made of kalabash shells, and use plenty of leaves and plants in their diet. Amazing and gentle people, they made us very welcome on their beachside terrace.
Pete and Courtney introduced us to their friends, a family of mum dad and 3 small kids, who live in a tree-house, with woven walls and a big fire to cook on downstairs. Dean really is close to nature, they eat off banana leaves, drink from bowls made of kalabash shells, and use plenty of leaves and plants in their diet. Amazing and gentle people, they made us very welcome on their beachside terrace.
Details of the hikes are at the end, which might be of some use to other cruisers, who like us, can't afford to take a guide every-time they go for a walk. There are no guide books for the hiking, and most of the info on the internet is concerned with the southern end of the island around Roseau where the cruise ships dock, so we found out what we could from the internet about the Waitikubuli track and took a few chances on local buses. It makes life so much easier, being in an English speaking country, and the chances of getting lost or stuck at the end of the bus route and timetable are much diminished.
Our confidence to walk in the rainforest unaccompanied was greatly enhanced by the knowledge that Dominica has no poisonous nasty things. It has 2 types of benign constrictor snakes, they run way when they see you. No nasty machineel trees (elsewhere in the Caribbean, everything about these trees is poisonous, even the rain if you shelter under them). It doesn't even have prickys thorns. No malaria, no dengue, no yellow fever. It just has peace, beauty and a few very shy parrots.
Our confidence to walk in the rainforest unaccompanied was greatly enhanced by the knowledge that Dominica has no poisonous nasty things. It has 2 types of benign constrictor snakes, they run way when they see you. No nasty machineel trees (elsewhere in the Caribbean, everything about these trees is poisonous, even the rain if you shelter under them). It doesn't even have prickys thorns. No malaria, no dengue, no yellow fever. It just has peace, beauty and a few very shy parrots.
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