Simi, (Greece). We had a few more days in Kos, Kos of the weather! We
had our night in the marina but it was about to explode with 50 more
charter boats so we went to the town quay, also administered by Kos
Marina. Lower charges but less facilities and just as friendly. Still
tucked up into the corner we felt no effect of the blow from the north
and enjoyed our 3 night stay. The first morning we were awoken by a
graunching sound at about 8:30am. We recognised it immediately as a
crossed anchor with our neighbour, who was leaving. He seemed to have
dropped it about 2 boats to windward. Once it was untangled which took
him some time he kindly dropped it again three boats to leeward which
meant it got caught on another mooring and we then had to untie and
relay. Such is life on crowded quay walls. Just after settling we got a
thoroughly nice new neighbor. A Turkish 55 foot Gulet, with Captain
Hicko and his wife, Belkin. They were lovely and offered to take us in
their hire car to the hot springs and then delivered us on another
evening to their favourite restaurant in the ethnic Turkish village of
Platani a few kilometers out of town. We were looked after very well by
his old friend Serif and family, (Serif is the name of the restaurant)
and the food was exceptional. An English couple, Trevor and Amanda, gave
us a lift back to the town late that night, despite being well out of
their way. It seems the Turkish friendliness we heard of from everyone
is infectious, and the local Greek islands seem to benefit from it as
well. It gives us a good feeling about our decision to winter in Turkey.
Hicko gave us tips on good wine and an insight into Turkish culture. Our
decision to stay a few days in Kos was assisted by the need to stock up
before leaving the EU. Both fuel, alcohol and 'Piggy' (Greek make of
vaccum-packed bacon) will be more expensive in Turkey. Kos proved a good
stop. Rhodes will be bigger, but Kos is small enough to get around and
research on the bikes and the main supply shops are easy to get
to,although some are a little way out of town. LIDL featured as number
one on the hit-list for beer and spirits (some on order from friends in
Turkey). Unfortunately they didn't have enough beer for my liking so we
went back down the road to Carrefour where they matched price for beer
and had more stock. We piled it into a taxi and got back for €10. Wine
came from "B" supermarket (pronounced something like Vasileithis), an
independent local chain who have a wholesale division supplying
restaurants. Not posh wine but it won the taste test of the evenings
before and they delivered all 140 liters in less than an hour for free.
We added 3 kg of 'Piggy' to the order at very reasonable prices. Total
stores taken on weigh about a quarter of a ton but they have been stowed
away in all the corners and we are barely aware of their existence.
(To those who follow- if you want to stock up here and need
directions,email us )
Except for fuel we are ready to leave Greece but there are yet more
islands to explore before then.
We left Kos and headed for the 17 mile sail to the volcano island of
Nisyros. On route we stopped and anchored off the natural hot spring on
the east coast. In settled weather you can anchor in 4 to 5m on sand and
rock about 50 m off the beach (36 deg 50.6 N 27 deg 19.1 E - but don't
blame me if you go aground using those co-ordinates without looking
where you're going!) A quick swim into the beach is rewarded by
simmering in the sulphurous brine inside the rough stone wall, where you
can suit yourself how hot you like it by moving toward or away from the
hot source spring flowing across the gravelly beach.Once we were part
boiled a plunge into the sea and a swim back to the boat soon wakens you
up.
Nisyros the volcano stands about 550m high so when we got the bikes out
we knew it would be hard going. The road to the edge of the caldera
winds up at a punishing gradient for about 5 km to the nearly deserted
village of Emborios. We visited the natural sauna just under the village
but after a 5k climb in 30 degrees we didn't feel the need to partake.
From the edge of the caldera it's a 7 minute free ride downhill into
the crater. It was difficult to determine if the heat at the bottom was
from the boiling and steaming ground or the brake disks on the bicycle
but the sulphurous smell does give it away. Its quite a spectacle, both
from above, and when you walk across the crater floor to the sound of
hollow echoes, hissing steam and bubbling from underfoot. We were lucky
that the 2 tourist coaches had just left, so we had the whole crater to
ourselves, though we were careful not to tread where there were no other
footsteps! Don't forget to wear some shoes, you won't get far without
them without having sizzled feet. After a well earned drink at the snack
bar it was up the dirt road which ascends the opposite caldera wall. It
was a grueling and hot climb for about an hour but once over the ridge a
20 minute non-stop full-on dirt road downhill, exhilarating! No sleeping
policemen to slow you down although a dozy goat may have the same
effect. Even Steph (more conservative than me) managed to overtake 3
motorbikes and a car on the way down.
We came across the 'paleokastro', a castle from the 7C BC with well
preserved polygonal walls - massive shaped bolders that interlock with
each other making them very resistant to attack and earthquake-proof.
The fact that you can wander around this castle and clamber up the
massive staircase to the ramparts
any time of day or night, with unrestricted access, is one of the great
things about Greece now. In 5 years time the EU money will have been
spent on admission kiosks, handrails and special lighting effects.
You'll be paying twice over! After the castle, just a 5 km mainly flat
road back to the start for a well earned beer. Total cycle about 30
kilometers along and nearly as many vertical ones.
So today we are off east again. Force 5 north-west wind forecast, but
alas, 3 knots from north, south, east, and west with odd little
thunderstorms. The iron sails are doing the work once again but in abut
6 hours we will be on Simi. Perhaps we will get the bikes out?
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