tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2314075265872633422024-02-19T05:53:17.752+02:00Adventures of Yacht MatadorSteph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.comBlogger88125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-61579353725542193052016-03-15T03:08:00.001+02:002016-03-15T03:08:27.376+02:00Hanging out in Honduras once morehere we are two years after the last blog.update. uploading photos hasn't got any faster in the last two years. Love it or hate it, Facebook has become the easiest way to keep friends and family up to date with our progress. Well, while we wait for a weather window to head East, here are some sights from The Bay Islands of Honduras, mostly underwater!<br />
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<ul>
<li>Sorry for the bad punctuation, this upload was from a tablet so I didn't,'thave to lug the 17 inch laptop ASHORE.on the tabletIcan't see what I'm typing as I type as the keyboard takes over the whole screen. Back to aface book for me I think. </li>
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Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-44789526023960371672014-05-04T19:13:00.001+03:002014-05-04T19:21:13.389+03:00Utila and Roatan, Bay Islands of Honduras<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div>Only 5 months later than expected we are sailing the Bay Islands of Honduras. I'll post more details later but for now, you know where we are. Having a great time, catching up with friends, snorkelling, swimming, diving, and scratching out some music at times. We'll be here for a long as possible, until we get scared of dodging hurricane season, then we'll scamper back to Tijax, Rio Dulce, where our normal berth awaits us, and we'll be ready for more inland adventures between fixing stuff that the tropical environment is working on destroying. Meanwhile, I am going to go over there to look at the fishies.......<div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrUy-gSHFJg7LMaifB5GiUOk56xFFXoiNespV-UJeyk3A-ElKMgx8XD-A3g4dSOKbxqEDK8E80j7q222G9b5zBgAYbuj0RXSKDrNcX9PVnWhzHAeQ5dqVp81juCGi9tjQi4X15hx5YRo4/s640/blogger-image-470807144.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrUy-gSHFJg7LMaifB5GiUOk56xFFXoiNespV-UJeyk3A-ElKMgx8XD-A3g4dSOKbxqEDK8E80j7q222G9b5zBgAYbuj0RXSKDrNcX9PVnWhzHAeQ5dqVp81juCGi9tjQi4X15hx5YRo4/s640/blogger-image-470807144.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div>While he does more of this......</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnNZmMvKAXkGsK3m2atMMD-JhqIl1lTjVBX4RlVJQVFvOqOfc1cXLcWm4UPpFUsPDIHDCCfS55BwWFD9wfk8A05M2FaYjrHIjlh0NMoJCPMXO_PkKlyKroLraJtEyTr9LtjccH8J2Gefw/s640/blogger-image--1819516094.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnNZmMvKAXkGsK3m2atMMD-JhqIl1lTjVBX4RlVJQVFvOqOfc1cXLcWm4UPpFUsPDIHDCCfS55BwWFD9wfk8A05M2FaYjrHIjlh0NMoJCPMXO_PkKlyKroLraJtEyTr9LtjccH8J2Gefw/s640/blogger-image--1819516094.jpg"></a></div><br></div>Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com3French Cay French Cay16.356046 -86.442795tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-46959035020153039052013-12-24T23:13:00.001+02:002013-12-25T00:09:56.142+02:00Feliz NavidadThose Christmas hats from the last post continue to embarrass me about my lack of blogging this year.<br />
It's time to replace them with something new.<br />
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2013 started with us leaving in a rush from the USA on expiring visas. We made it to Bimini in the Bahamas in time to celebrate Stu's 50th there and chill out, to recover from the stress of it all. We struggled against the trade winds through the Bahamas and re-repaired the engine in Nassau - thanks to the incompetence of one of the mechanics in the USA, we nearly lost it for good - it's a long story!<br />
After fighting more upwind we made our way down to Cuba and spent 2 months sailing and biking around the north and west coast. The blog will appear eventually, I promise.<br />
To recover from that exertion we spent 6 weeks in Belize sailing and snorkeling the magnificent reefs. <br />
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Completely worn out from the constant travel from Turkey over 2 years, and quite fed up of watching weather and worrying about hurricanes, we decided to spend hurricane season in Guatemala, up the Rio Dulce. There are about 15 small marinas up here, and the country was highly recommended to us by other cruisers. We have been moored at Tijax marina (check it out at www.tijax.com) for 6 months, working on the boat, doing some land travels and loving the simplicity of being able to step ashore. It has been as hot as hell at times, and we've made good use of the swimming pool to stay sane.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moored in the jungle</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's hot in the rain too!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaf cutter ants busy, busy, busy</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View over the Rio Dulce </td></tr>
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It was time for us to leave on a high water to cross the sandbar on 12th December, but we'd ordered a new anchor chain a few months back, which should have arrived in November. Well, it is Christmas eve and we are still waiting for it to be released from customs. Customs thought they would try and get a nice big bribe for the shipment to be released in time for Christmas, but the importers are refusing to play that game, so a huge container of West Marie stock continues to sit in customs, and we continue to wait until they get bored of the sight of it. Since the old chain has turned into a sad pile of rust, we feel we have to hang on for it and enjoy Guatemala for Christmas.<br />
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Yesterday our friendly marinero, Oscar-Abel, took 10 of us gringos to his home to 'help' make traditional tamales, which is what the locals eat instead of turkey and brussel sprouts. They cooked us breakfast, lunch and gave us take home tamales too. What fantastic generosity!!!! Can you imagine us inviting 10 Guatemalans to our house to teach them how to make British Christmas dinner, and feeding them 3 meals too??? I hope one day we do......<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Banana leaves from the garden are softened over a fire.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gladys (mum) stirs the cornmeal dough over another fire</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jerie finds out how hard it is to stir with a canoe paddle</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Judy helps to chop 15 pounds of chicken</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Sx4EKyhGniE/UrndLpRniXI/AAAAAAAACww/v_juMPtv-0E/s1600/Tamales+workshop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Sx4EKyhGniE/UrndLpRniXI/AAAAAAAACww/v_juMPtv-0E/s320/Tamales+workshop.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Everyone has their fingers in the pie</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1MWd78PSyvo/UrndIox8avI/AAAAAAAACwo/6WSZZi5kXKk/s1600/Tamales.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="311" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1MWd78PSyvo/UrndIox8avI/AAAAAAAACwo/6WSZZi5kXKk/s320/Tamales.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Production line, the pile grows </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JgLadlOkraI/UrncQKKqefI/AAAAAAAACwU/cS8Qm9HlZGo/s1600/Tamales+nicole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JgLadlOkraI/UrncQKKqefI/AAAAAAAACwU/cS8Qm9HlZGo/s320/Tamales+nicole.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nicole makes her first tamale</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SkzUcp4sr3g/UrncQEyXnvI/AAAAAAAACwQ/1oZ-X86gdok/s1600/Tamales+nicole2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SkzUcp4sr3g/UrncQEyXnvI/AAAAAAAACwQ/1oZ-X86gdok/s320/Tamales+nicole2.jpg" width="287" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With secret ingredients!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_ESskyBXBoU/Urnsh3ukabI/AAAAAAAACyc/JkIcFdaflF8/s1600/Tamales+galore.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="235" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_ESskyBXBoU/Urnsh3ukabI/AAAAAAAACyc/JkIcFdaflF8/s320/Tamales+galore.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We made 2 pots like this. They are steamed over the fire for 2 hours.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ED5nYSbkdts/UrncI1gZZPI/AAAAAAAACwE/iiQfqX0kax8/s1600/Tamales+ed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="318" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ED5nYSbkdts/UrncI1gZZPI/AAAAAAAACwE/iiQfqX0kax8/s320/Tamales+ed.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stu samples the product.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Here's some more pictures of Guatemala to keep you going until the next post.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QYn591Z9KFA/UoegWBmxv1I/AAAAAAAACsk/0viEO_aXs-A/s1600/River+trip2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="162" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QYn591Z9KFA/UoegWBmxv1I/AAAAAAAACsk/0viEO_aXs-A/s320/River+trip2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simple living on the river</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0qTq_s-wQtY/Uoegv5yjpiI/AAAAAAAACuc/Mn9oygvDj_0/s1600/river+shop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="151" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0qTq_s-wQtY/Uoegv5yjpiI/AAAAAAAACuc/Mn9oygvDj_0/s320/river+shop.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">River shops</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oh1alOmfVu8/UoegRiGRO1I/AAAAAAAACsU/NEG4i_h7tBQ/s1600/Public+bus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oh1alOmfVu8/UoegRiGRO1I/AAAAAAAACsU/NEG4i_h7tBQ/s320/Public+bus.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Public transport</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lMNqkkXMXLg/Uoef4wjYZfI/AAAAAAAACro/vO9lJ7aUQyQ/s1600/Pants.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lMNqkkXMXLg/Uoef4wjYZfI/AAAAAAAACro/vO9lJ7aUQyQ/s320/Pants.jpg" width="175" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Funky pants</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dM9VPtnJdFE/UoefjKmezDI/AAAAAAAACqY/fB1cNOvshHc/s1600/Market+lemons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="248" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dM9VPtnJdFE/UoefjKmezDI/AAAAAAAACqY/fB1cNOvshHc/s320/Market+lemons.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lovely fresh fruit and veg</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FLc8fgMP4l4/UoedR6UcseI/AAAAAAAAClA/Z1ulBdfa67o/s1600/Antigua+market+ladies5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FLc8fgMP4l4/UoedR6UcseI/AAAAAAAAClA/Z1ulBdfa67o/s320/Antigua+market+ladies5.jpg" width="241" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bKYUUdVr0mg/UoedZKi36qI/AAAAAAAAClQ/91Ww7gzkJas/s1600/Antigua+market+lady.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="230" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bKYUUdVr0mg/UoedZKi36qI/AAAAAAAAClQ/91Ww7gzkJas/s320/Antigua+market+lady.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ptC1cVvdPVs/UoefDqpeKvI/AAAAAAAACpk/B4m2U8-vxXs/s1600/Lake+with+dog2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="186" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ptC1cVvdPVs/UoefDqpeKvI/AAAAAAAACpk/B4m2U8-vxXs/s320/Lake+with+dog2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lake Atitlan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6y_ZtOmG8gQ/Uoeel6LcC-I/AAAAAAAACo0/Uq4rUP_hwQ8/s1600/Lago+de+Flores+and+kayak.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="153" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6y_ZtOmG8gQ/Uoeel6LcC-I/AAAAAAAACo0/Uq4rUP_hwQ8/s320/Lago+de+Flores+and+kayak.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lake of flowers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b4XKALcvutw/UoeedOnY0HI/AAAAAAAACog/YsPQqmK2kNM/s1600/Fishing+net.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="235" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b4XKALcvutw/UoeedOnY0HI/AAAAAAAACog/YsPQqmK2kNM/s320/Fishing+net.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Subsistence fishing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b-q75f9Z4ZU/Uoeeq4ZEhnI/AAAAAAAACpM/XntNOi2TFn0/s1600/Howler+Monkey.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b-q75f9Z4ZU/Uoeeq4ZEhnI/AAAAAAAACpM/XntNOi2TFn0/s320/Howler+Monkey.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Howler monkeys</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LGrPHQlTkbU/Uoeed7fmauI/AAAAAAAACoc/UOKQSFTc68A/s1600/El+Paradiso+hot+springs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LGrPHQlTkbU/Uoeed7fmauI/AAAAAAAACoc/UOKQSFTc68A/s320/El+Paradiso+hot+springs.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hot springs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N4aqXhoYFHk/UoefLzhRVhI/AAAAAAAACpw/al6-Z_nqato/s1600/Las+Conchas+group.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="175" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N4aqXhoYFHk/UoefLzhRVhI/AAAAAAAACpw/al6-Z_nqato/s320/Las+Conchas+group.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cold springs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-chK-xCgHeXY/UoeeFnstqNI/AAAAAAAACnw/fS0N9KGBnCg/s1600/Collectivo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="210" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-chK-xCgHeXY/UoeeFnstqNI/AAAAAAAACnw/fS0N9KGBnCg/s320/Collectivo.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luggage being rearranged underway on a collectivo bus</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fCNxsNyrVVU/Uoed-oafXuI/AAAAAAAACnE/fBtWskCs0OI/s1600/Chicken+buses+antigua.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="131" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fCNxsNyrVVU/Uoed-oafXuI/AAAAAAAACnE/fBtWskCs0OI/s320/Chicken+buses+antigua.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chicken buses</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ce66kRG2Sik/Uoed_SXKkPI/AAAAAAAACnA/OO7z8Hx4w5U/s1600/Chicken+on+chicken+bus2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="151" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ce66kRG2Sik/Uoed_SXKkPI/AAAAAAAACnA/OO7z8Hx4w5U/s320/Chicken+on+chicken+bus2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With a real Chicken on top</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LnPBUKzdh7o/UoediYaKSEI/AAAAAAAAClw/e5xPmycmIb8/s1600/Antigua+street+seller.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="243" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LnPBUKzdh7o/UoediYaKSEI/AAAAAAAAClw/e5xPmycmIb8/s320/Antigua+street+seller.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">She's 76 , kneels there all day to sell a few wares</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_bh7mhvcP4U/UoedHo2_rOI/AAAAAAAACkM/RDBD2rNNuHM/s1600/Antigua+market+baby.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_bh7mhvcP4U/UoedHo2_rOI/AAAAAAAACkM/RDBD2rNNuHM/s320/Antigua+market+baby.jpg" width="288" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-42-x4LZEPzk/UoecwoN3RCI/AAAAAAAACjY/QMA28keQSds/s200/Antigua+Baby+on+board.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="189" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baby on board</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JRZJ11e0co4/Uoec6n7E_FI/AAAAAAAACj0/BL7Srq7DHOs/s1600/Antigua+arch+tuktuk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JRZJ11e0co4/Uoec6n7E_FI/AAAAAAAACj0/BL7Srq7DHOs/s320/Antigua+arch+tuktuk.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful Antigua</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y9xzsU_vqGY/UoedoNiUOWI/AAAAAAAACmE/6HgI0iFIoIk/s1600/Boys+and+their+toys.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y9xzsU_vqGY/UoedoNiUOWI/AAAAAAAACmE/6HgI0iFIoIk/s320/Boys+and+their+toys.jpg" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boys and their toys....the work goes on</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EKVv_-j6Bq8/UoeeZcB_lpI/AAAAAAAACoM/OUZERuQMk-8/s1600/Dink2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EKVv_-j6Bq8/UoeeZcB_lpI/AAAAAAAACoM/OUZERuQMk-8/s320/Dink2.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Its a hard life for dinks too, Guat is not kind to glue</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-58456404355474610372012-12-30T00:52:00.001+02:002012-12-30T04:28:59.658+02:00Heading southWe are busy heading south to the Bahamas before our visas expire. Engine seems to be working fine, weather is all over the place, and we are having to dodge winter storms.<br />
I have at last completed the blog post from the BVIs to Bahamas- check it out under the June 2012 entry on the side bar (right)<br />
<br />
Here is a selection of photos from the ICW southbound - you wouldn't believe the things people have in their gardens. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VK-XNih60XE/UN-cZ_PVU6I/AAAAAAAACds/EAE7wX4BDxE/s1600/Bulls+Creek+Christmas+day.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="236" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VK-XNih60XE/UN-cZ_PVU6I/AAAAAAAACds/EAE7wX4BDxE/s320/Bulls+Creek+Christmas+day.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christmas Day in Bulls Creek</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-muvszhZVbf8/UN-cY4ceF0I/AAAAAAAACdc/ImrX1nDjifQ/s1600/Bird+BBQ.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="205" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-muvszhZVbf8/UN-cY4ceF0I/AAAAAAAACdc/ImrX1nDjifQ/s320/Bird+BBQ.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bird lookout</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qcBVGIlN6AQ/UN-cZJo0GTI/AAAAAAAACdk/TJZxoO1zbSE/s1600/Bird1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qcBVGIlN6AQ/UN-cZJo0GTI/AAAAAAAACdk/TJZxoO1zbSE/s320/Bird1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-chCJW9deAFk/UN-caahnaSI/AAAAAAAACd0/777hVyYFL3o/s1600/Garden+giraffe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="207" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-chCJW9deAFk/UN-caahnaSI/AAAAAAAACd0/777hVyYFL3o/s320/Garden+giraffe.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is not a bird...and is it a Christmas decoration?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tEdD_GO_F7I/UN-ca6nJRYI/AAAAAAAACeA/yVdV5rtJInA/s1600/Mad+Christmas+garden.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="145" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tEdD_GO_F7I/UN-ca6nJRYI/AAAAAAAACeA/yVdV5rtJInA/s320/Mad+Christmas+garden.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Too many Christmas decorations for good taste..</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Nhu4J_tZLc0/UN-cfCyAhjI/AAAAAAAACeg/hO7jEN_DWPc/s1600/Mad+garden+day.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="145" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Nhu4J_tZLc0/UN-cfCyAhjI/AAAAAAAACeg/hO7jEN_DWPc/s320/Mad+garden+day.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and worse by daylight</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OglXX_o1nnA/UN-cdFYZpCI/AAAAAAAACeU/Ezz-8R2lK-M/s1600/Pelicans.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="107" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OglXX_o1nnA/UN-cdFYZpCI/AAAAAAAACeU/Ezz-8R2lK-M/s320/Pelicans.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pelicans crossing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-T4rkyqzvb7k/UN-cb0L71zI/AAAAAAAACeM/r4cS_Nox1xo/s1600/Swimming+raccon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="210" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-T4rkyqzvb7k/UN-cb0L71zI/AAAAAAAACeM/r4cS_Nox1xo/s320/Swimming+raccon.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Racoon crossing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oK_bhigSkE4/UN-cfZLvUbI/AAAAAAAACek/HuYx5x6cmZM/s1600/bird2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="252" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oK_bhigSkE4/UN-cfZLvUbI/AAAAAAAACek/HuYx5x6cmZM/s320/bird2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beware of vultures</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jivCvtkQFFE/UN-cg2BCDhI/AAAAAAAACe8/ru3yHKEn_7E/s1600/garden+gnome.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jivCvtkQFFE/UN-cg2BCDhI/AAAAAAAACe8/ru3yHKEn_7E/s320/garden+gnome.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and Christmas gnomes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jUZpLf3Yju4/UN-cgC00xuI/AAAAAAAACe0/PrNXrtyOBPc/s1600/prime+waterfront+location.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="189" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jUZpLf3Yju4/UN-cgC00xuI/AAAAAAAACe0/PrNXrtyOBPc/s320/prime+waterfront+location.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A shortage of prime waterfront location, the vultures move in...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-9394207930250309312012-12-15T19:54:00.000+02:002012-12-30T00:56:24.944+02:00Matador's Southbound cruise from Maine<h3 style="text-align: center;">
</h3>
Never having planned to
go to Maine, once there we thought we'd make the most of it. We
enjoyed the Bangor music festival and the Camden Windjammer festival,
but we couldn't leave without visting the wonderful Acadia National
Park at Mount Desert Island. It is a beautiful area, costs a huge $5
per week to enter the park, and this includes free buses linking the
hiking and biking trails. A bargain! It is often difficult for us to
access hiking trails, and requires a safe anchorage to leave the boat
while we trek up big hills all day, and MDI has just this at Somes
harbour<br />
<br />
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Somes Harbour anchorage
4<sup>th</sup> September 2012</div>
44 21N 068 19W
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i_Cy94frN9E/UMfrohT1b9I/AAAAAAAACNE/AHrCUWTUEag/s1600/MDI+anchorage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i_Cy94frN9E/UMfrohT1b9I/AAAAAAAACNE/AHrCUWTUEag/s320/MDI+anchorage.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="CENTER" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
A foggy
morning in Somes Harbour</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This is a lovely little
bay. There is a private dinghy dock, but the locals tolerate visitors
using their dock, for a contribution to the honesty box. Its a short
walk up the lane to the road, and the bus is used to picking up
people in the layby, even though it is not marked as a bus stop. All
the buses have bike racks front and back, so you can bus your bike to
the trails, and avoid cycling on the surprisingly manic roads. Every
day we took the morning bus to Bar harbour, which is the hub for the
buses and trails, has supermarkets, bars, shops and the tourist info
centre for maps.
<br />
<br />
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
We bought a hiking map
for $5 and wore it out after a week. Gorgeous walks, lovely views,
and safe cycling. It was worth all the miles just for this one place.
The cycling is fairly tame on forest roads and carriage roads, shared
by the horse and carriages for the more sedate tourists who visit the
park.
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--ElMhRn31z0/UMfr66mc3eI/AAAAAAAACNs/sXQsRz502Nw/s1600/MDI+cycles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="203" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--ElMhRn31z0/UMfr66mc3eI/AAAAAAAACNs/sXQsRz502Nw/s320/MDI+cycles.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8xa6qLHDQ30/UMfr3wKQ_qI/AAAAAAAACNc/JXAxla6wlIY/s1600/MDI+cycles+Stus+back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8xa6qLHDQ30/UMfr3wKQ_qI/AAAAAAAACNc/JXAxla6wlIY/s320/MDI+cycles+Stus+back.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Stu's
back, my usual view from my bike</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Labour Day holiday
weekend (3<sup>rd</sup> September) is the end of summer holidays for
Americans, and the park was quieter as a result. The weather turned
quite quickly autumnal as well, though we had warm and sunny days for
our hill walking.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DHQEbnw3-vI/UMfrwUm7EMI/AAAAAAAACNU/l-fjNdGZS2o/s1600/MDI+colours.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="182" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DHQEbnw3-vI/UMfrwUm7EMI/AAAAAAAACNU/l-fjNdGZS2o/s320/MDI+colours.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: center;">
One tree
has decided it is autumn!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v1pguvO0_qs/UMfr6Vdb0nI/AAAAAAAACNk/7l0Y-s-U8Ns/s1600/MDI+views.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v1pguvO0_qs/UMfr6Vdb0nI/AAAAAAAACNk/7l0Y-s-U8Ns/s320/MDI+views.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hKXDWJrjJf4/UMfr9Zy2kKI/AAAAAAAACN4/GgvuKzUFqkk/s1600/MDI+weather.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hKXDWJrjJf4/UMfr9Zy2kKI/AAAAAAAACN4/GgvuKzUFqkk/s320/MDI+weather.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
We were sad
to leave MDI, but knew we had a lot of miles to go south. We heard
bad news from Yindee Plus, that Sue had taken a nasty fall and broken
some ribs, so we decided to head back to them in the amazing Seal
Harbour gunk hole, and see how the patient was doing.
</div>
<br />
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Seal Bay,
Vinalhaven 13 September</div>
44 05N 068
49W<br />
<br />
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
A really
stunningly beautiful, natural harbour, protected from all winds.
There are a few holiday homes around the bay, most of them closed up
after the summer. We took advantage of someones waterfront access to
park the dinghy, taking the bikes ashore to cycle a few miles to the
little town that serves the population of 1200 people. We did this
several times as there was no phone signal in the bay, and no
internet. Sue was coping really well on board and managing short
forays off the boat, so we just hung around enjoying the scenery and
gave moral support. It was very hard to tear ourselves away from this
pristine anchorage.
</div>
Vinalhaven
has a very large tidal range, and we were unaware how much we had got
out of the habit of accounting for tidal height when going ashore.
One day we parked the dinghy, anchored well off in deep water, with a
line ashore. We cycled into town for supplies and wifi.
<br />
When we came
back we were amazed how much we had misjudged it!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OYlIXH9Bsfc/UMfseK0v-BI/AAAAAAAACQA/98kcwSaqNL8/s1600/Seal+harbour.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="183" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OYlIXH9Bsfc/UMfseK0v-BI/AAAAAAAACQA/98kcwSaqNL8/s320/Seal+harbour.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
The dink
is perched on a rock high and dry!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9QLAUekkf3U/UMfstw8lp-I/AAAAAAAACQo/YciqHN8M1FQ/s1600/Seal+harbour+neaped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9QLAUekkf3U/UMfstw8lp-I/AAAAAAAACQo/YciqHN8M1FQ/s320/Seal+harbour+neaped.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
Thought
we'd anchored the dink far enough out, but the anchor was high and
dry too.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
We took the
engine off, and carried the dink to the water, loaded it up with
bikes and shopping. It was not floating very well, so we thought we
would wait for the tide to come in a bit.
</div>
So we sat
and watched the tide roll OUT, further and further. It was a lowest
spring tide of the year!! A tiny trickle remained in the deep mud.
There was no way of getting the dink to the water now, we'd just have
to sit and admire the sunset, eat the shopping, drink the beer and
wait for the boat to refloat. It was dark and chilly when we got
home!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nyA67eyvorM/UMftGXZnOwI/AAAAAAAACSU/G9UM-bfchQ4/s1600/seal+harbour+trickle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="166" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nyA67eyvorM/UMftGXZnOwI/AAAAAAAACSU/G9UM-bfchQ4/s320/seal+harbour+trickle.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Feeling
pretty stupid by this point!</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CsYzZhUud9U/UMfscOT-SUI/AAAAAAAACP4/6jQ4fisO1a4/s1600/Seal+harbour+sunset.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="166" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CsYzZhUud9U/UMfscOT-SUI/AAAAAAAACP4/6jQ4fisO1a4/s320/Seal+harbour+sunset.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: center;">
Nice
sunset though</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Time to move
on, even Yindee Plus were on the move, with Becca joining as crew to
help out.
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P53psSyrThY/UMfrlNikHWI/AAAAAAAACM0/HN9W5o8RKVo/s1600/Lobster+pots+Maine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="125" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P53psSyrThY/UMfrlNikHWI/AAAAAAAACM0/HN9W5o8RKVo/s400/Lobster+pots+Maine.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Maine is
absolutely chocker with lobster pots, so we don't like to motor or
sail at night there, though many do and get away with it. We still
have vivid memories of being caught on that fishing net off the
Portuguese coast. It is the slow way south, coast hopping by day,
but we preferred to be slow and safe, retracing our route via
Boothbay Harbour and Gloucester.
<br />
<br />
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Provincetown,
Cape Cod 25 September
</div>
42 02N 070
11W<br />
<br />
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
The gay
seaside resort of Cape Cod. Shame we missed the bear festival earlier
in the year. Bears: ' a subculture of gay men who embrace natural
body hair' ! Bear week is the time to parade it for all to see
apparently! Check out the photo gallery if you dare:</div>
<a href="http://www.ptownbears.org/photo_gallery/galleries.asp?gal=bgal11" target="_blank">Provincetown Bears</a><br />
<br />
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
It was
too chilly and windy now for parading body hair. It blew old boots,
and we sat it out for a couple of days here. A flock of little birds
roosted on the boat, despite us chasing them off frequently. I didn't
mind them finding shelter from the wind, but they rewarded us with
bucket loads of crap over the decks, bimini, water catcher, yuk.....</div>
<br />
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
As soon as
possible we moved on, timing our arrival at the Cape Cod canal to get
on the magic carpet tide carrying us through at 10 knots. It was
still windy the other side, from behind, so we made up a few miles,
anchoring at the charmingly named Fogland on the rural side of Rhode
Island. It was a pretty little spot, surrounded by mansions and
farms, but we moved into Newport town to meet Kurt and Katie on
Interlude</div>
<br />
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Newport,
Rhode Island</div>
41 28N 071
19W anchored among the moorings<br />
<br />
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
In the
heyday of the USA, when entrepreneurs were making buckets of cash
building roads, railways, well, building the new country really,
there was no income tax. The richest people in America built their
summer 'cottages' at Rhode Island. These palaces or mansions are
vast, and inspired by the riches of European cities. For the
princlely sum of $18 each per house, they are all open to the public,
filled with the beautiful objects donated by the families in lieu of
inheritence tax. We made do with gazing at them from the sea in our
own holiday cottage. It was fun to catch up with Interlude, they were
waiting for the right wind to make an offshore passage all the way to
the BVI's. The quick way to get south – but we still had not
visited New York and Washington, so we carried on plodding south and
west ino Long Island Sound..
</div>
<br />
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Mystic
Seaport Museum 1 October</div>
41 21N 071
57.9W<br />
<br />
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
The musuem
of America and the Sea. More than a museum, it is actually a small
19<sup>th</sup>C village. There are all the usual shops you would
find - a watch maker, cooperage, rope maker, hardware store. They
have actors in period costume, enacting the activities of the age.
There are whaling and cod fishing sailing boats to visit, ones that
actually did fish the Grand Banks. It is a working village as well,
and historic ships come here to be refitted or preserved with
traditional materials and skills.
</div>
The best bit
of all is for foreign-flagged boats, they offer a free berth for a
night, and free entrance to the museum/park. Bargain, and a very
eductional place to visit too, with free hot showers and a washing
machine we were in heaven.
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gZoMMKNVvvs/UMfr9V9UL7I/AAAAAAAACN0/RNRbeFfBrr8/s1600/Mystic+nauticallis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gZoMMKNVvvs/UMfr9V9UL7I/AAAAAAAACN0/RNRbeFfBrr8/s320/Mystic+nauticallis.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HyyU2pi0Ki8/UMn-N2oHDHI/AAAAAAAACY4/MAryDIAQZRU/s1600/Mystic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="227" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HyyU2pi0Ki8/UMn-N2oHDHI/AAAAAAAACY4/MAryDIAQZRU/s320/Mystic.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Port
Washingon - access to New York City</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Mooring 40
49N 073 43W</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
No reason to
visit Port Washington other than it being at the end of a rapid
transit train route to New York city and they generously provide free
mooring buoys for 1-2 nights. Many cruisers stayed here for up to a
week and did not get charged for their stay. It was pretty empty when
we were here, with a real end of season feel. It is a 20 minute walk
to the train station and costs $15 return each on the train, but you
pop up in the centre of Manhattan at Madison Square Gardens.
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
79<sup>th</sup>
Street Basin marina and mooring buoys</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
40 41N 074
02W 9 Oct 2012, $30 per night for moorings</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
We did
several train trips into the city to explore, before sailing around
the island of Manhattan, to 79<sup>th</sup> Street Basin, very close
to Central Park. We took at buoy there for a couple of nights, so we
could spend time out in the evenings, without a long trip home.
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
We loved the
city, and really enjoyed our cultural experiences there. Many museums
have a slot once a week where you 'pay what you wish' or free
entrance, and we took full advantage of these to see as much as
possible on a budget, even if the queuing was a bit tedious.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mK0x_iYbIkA/UMfsKJ7TQII/AAAAAAAACOg/4wnJpplehN8/s1600/NY+Times+Sq+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mK0x_iYbIkA/UMfsKJ7TQII/AAAAAAAACOg/4wnJpplehN8/s320/NY+Times+Sq+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Times Square
– enjoy the bright city lights for free!!</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OALOK-pE4mc/UMfsKXgLcpI/AAAAAAAACOk/qtEBh17lhMs/s1600/NY+streets+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OALOK-pE4mc/UMfsKXgLcpI/AAAAAAAACOk/qtEBh17lhMs/s320/NY+streets+2.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4N_VyuRTXBE/UMfskU_x6DI/AAAAAAAACQY/HgyuOLMz4As/s1600/Times+Sq+brollies.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4N_VyuRTXBE/UMfskU_x6DI/AAAAAAAACQY/HgyuOLMz4As/s320/Times+Sq+brollies.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ej2Sb9SSyZk/UMfsCSo5gMI/AAAAAAAACOY/s0zLzLfDZig/s1600/NY+Cowboy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ej2Sb9SSyZk/UMfsCSo5gMI/AAAAAAAACOY/s0zLzLfDZig/s320/NY+Cowboy.jpg" width="264" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Perhaps
the most photographed man in New York?</div>
<br />
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Empire State
Building</div>
An expensive
view of the city at $25 pp Stu went on his own, and Steph went to see
the Picasso exhibit at the Guggenheim<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-woq5ddA65TU/UMfrUg1vbyI/AAAAAAAACLs/EmHE2YQ_0YE/s1600/Empire+street+view+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-woq5ddA65TU/UMfrUg1vbyI/AAAAAAAACLs/EmHE2YQ_0YE/s320/Empire+street+view+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P6BozHglMA0/UMfq7LVRfzI/AAAAAAAACKc/qg5JzrqQhcY/s1600/American+Icons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P6BozHglMA0/UMfq7LVRfzI/AAAAAAAACKc/qg5JzrqQhcY/s320/American+Icons.jpg" width="172" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Twin
icons of America</i></div>
<br />
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Frick
Collection (pay what you like)</div>
A superb
collection of art in a private collection. For an industrial age man,
he had very good taste and filled his Central Park mansion with some
exquisite works, amongst them the Holbeins – Thomas More and Thomas
Cromwell staring out from the 16<sup>th</sup> C. You could almost
reach in and stroke his velvet sleeves – so amazing.<br />
<br />
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Opera –
Othello</div>
Sue and Mark
(Macushla) stood in line for cheap opera tickets and kindly got some
for us, as we were motoring up the Hudson River at the time. Rich
patrons of the arts subsidise seats at the opera on a daily basis. We
were in $200 seats for $20 – at the Metropolitan Opera no less.
Magic.<br />
<br />
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Cinema –
Wuthering Heights</div>
Andrea
Arnolds reinterpretation of this classic, visually stunning – it is
a joy to see a decent film again.
<br />
<br />
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
World Trade
Centre memorial
</div>
This has
only recently opened. There was a competition for the design, and
'Reflecting Absence' was chosen from thousands. It really works –
you can't believe the towers once stood here, among all the other
skyscrapers which now reflect the skyline, it does seem quite a small
footprint. The water cascades down into dark, seeming bottomless
cubes, and the names of every victim are embossed around the
fountains. The museum has not yet opened, but you can peer down into
it to see how many stories below ground level the towers extended.
Hard to believe they fell down just like that. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KAq9IXQGb3c/UMfsz_FlAVI/AAAAAAAACQ4/CaNLJLAtlbY/s1600/WTC+memorial+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KAq9IXQGb3c/UMfsz_FlAVI/AAAAAAAACQ4/CaNLJLAtlbY/s320/WTC+memorial+3.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zUWh-y-9trU/UMfs4mewtSI/AAAAAAAACRU/l5302sVSF4Q/s1600/WTC+memorial+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zUWh-y-9trU/UMfs4mewtSI/AAAAAAAACRU/l5302sVSF4Q/s320/WTC+memorial+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eDbLXz_ZyIo/UMfs3MU7o3I/AAAAAAAACRI/Z54wN7il4RY/s1600/WTC+memorial+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="157" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eDbLXz_ZyIo/UMfs3MU7o3I/AAAAAAAACRI/Z54wN7il4RY/s320/WTC+memorial+4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RM76zRiier4/UMfs2b5oceI/AAAAAAAACRA/UNA-DbAAwEE/s1600/WTC+memorial.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RM76zRiier4/UMfs2b5oceI/AAAAAAAACRA/UNA-DbAAwEE/s320/WTC+memorial.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1m2XQrQl5IQ/UMfsNbPzzsI/AAAAAAAACOw/a_09I_iaLbQ/s1600/NY+streets+Highline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1m2XQrQl5IQ/UMfsNbPzzsI/AAAAAAAACOw/a_09I_iaLbQ/s320/NY+streets+Highline.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="CENTER" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
The
Highline – a green urban renewal project – a walkway has been
made from a disused overhead railway line.</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--hclnmCqHKg/UMfsU5PyIcI/AAAAAAAACPg/fJujGfX01co/s1600/River+view+NY.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="165" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--hclnmCqHKg/UMfsU5PyIcI/AAAAAAAACPg/fJujGfX01co/s320/River+view+NY.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="CENTER" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Sailing
under Manhattans bridges on a misty October day</div>
<div align="CENTER" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m7c0ElHNYZM/UMfrp_-sV_I/AAAAAAAACNM/oThO1ufVFew/s1600/Libety.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="186" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m7c0ElHNYZM/UMfrp_-sV_I/AAAAAAAACNM/oThO1ufVFew/s320/Libety.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="CENTER" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
A fireboat
escorts a battleship down the Hudson river.</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
After a week
in New York we were thoroughly exhausted, and we sailed down to Sandy
Hook to fuel up (Long Island sound is very expensive for fuel, so we
were running on fumes) and prepare for an offshore passage to the
Delaware entrance. When I say expensive, that is of course relative
to prices further south, not the UK. Diesel at Sandy Hook was
$4/gallon or just under 65p/litre.
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
At 0430 we
arrived at the Harbour of Refuge at the entrance to the Delaware
River, we had to wait for the tide to continue up the Delaware. I
can't describe how cold it was at that time of the morning, blowing
25 knots from the north. The boat felt warm when we came inside, but
was only 7C ! We lit the diesel heater and crawled under the duvet to
recover. These October offshore overnighters are no fun at all. We
wouldn't recommend coming up this way without some form of boat
heating.
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
We spent a
couple of days just riding the tide up to the Chesapeake and Delaware
Canal – it saves a longer offshore route, and down the Chesapeake
to Annapolis. Lots of cruisers had made it to the Annapolis boat show
a week before, and were still hanging around exploring the area. It
probably saved us a load of money missing the boat show.
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht4GTfb-73Y-ixHhtWxVWkdrML_pT57_T2Qbks9UpPsLRkPAeT-GrjTVz-ndKpdOK5wzkmmVi_zy1jKM7z9B27cWQe22bj5RsM1NXoaR62NBBTnYFM3Hkd20ChZLap5YOG-lJ_mdPnB_I/s1600/Delaware+to+Chesapeake.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht4GTfb-73Y-ixHhtWxVWkdrML_pT57_T2Qbks9UpPsLRkPAeT-GrjTVz-ndKpdOK5wzkmmVi_zy1jKM7z9B27cWQe22bj5RsM1NXoaR62NBBTnYFM3Hkd20ChZLap5YOG-lJ_mdPnB_I/s320/Delaware+to+Chesapeake.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
When we
planned to visit the US east coast, we had intended to just spend the
summer cruising the Chesapeake Bay and all its little creeks. On the
way north it was way too hot to be enjoyable, and there is the risk
of hurricanes, thunderstorms, no good swimming and lots of
jellyfish, so we carried on north. Now, here we were in the middle of
October, too cold to swim, and running out of time to relax in
pleasant bays. Also, it was way past the end of holiday season, and
other than Annapolis, everything was closed.
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Washington
DC</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
38 53N 077
02W Anchored 23<sup>rd</sup> October</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
A couple
more days down the Chesapeake and we turned up the Potomac river for
a 2 day run to Washington DC. We anchored in a little stub of the
river outside the Gangplank marina, and Capitol YC. We had the
Washington memorial in sight from the anchorage, and it was a 3
minute walk to the metro station, supermarket and bus stop. To keep
fit, most days we walked to and/or from the city (25minutes) as well
as spending all day on our feet in museums and galleries.
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
For $10/day
we parked our dinghy at the Ganglank marina, and had hot showers and
access to the laundry facilities there. There is a security presence
24/7, so our dink was very safe.
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The famous
Smithsonian Institute is based in Washington. Large sums of money
were donated by Mr Smithson, a British scientist, to create an
'establishment for the <span lang="en">increase & diffusion of
knowledge among men'. Even though he had never visited the USA, the
legacy was accepted and a charitable trust formed in 1836, and since
then many others have contributed. An American diplomat was sent to
England to collect the bequest, and he returned with 105 sacks
containing 104,960 gold sovereigns (about $500,000 at the time). Now,
all the Smithsonian museums have free entry and are totally
marvellous. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IKdi9HD3hDw/UMfsVV9TzrI/AAAAAAAACPo/BZOGWSP30fU/s1600/Reporting+from+the+White+House.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="249" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IKdi9HD3hDw/UMfsVV9TzrI/AAAAAAAACPo/BZOGWSP30fU/s320/Reporting+from+the+White+House.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="CENTER" class="western" lang="en" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Reporting
from the White House!</div>
<div align="CENTER" class="western" lang="en" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z7--BuJ06ws/UMytmbAb7GI/AAAAAAAACZY/TN8_syO2SFE/s1600/Washington+memorial.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z7--BuJ06ws/UMytmbAb7GI/AAAAAAAACZY/TN8_syO2SFE/s320/Washington+memorial.jpg" width="230" /></a></div>
<div align="left" class="western" lang="en" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
There are 11
museums on the National Mall, the pedestrian grass strip in the
centre of the city. We visited the air & space museum 3 times and
the Natural history museum 4 times – the best thing about free
entry, you can wander until your brain is completely full and then
return another day afresh for more. In each museum there are
docent-led tours (volunteer experts) who lead you around the exhibits
and teach you even more stuff! We came away with our heads very full
indeed.
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
My 3 most
recent reads were good preparation: Moondust (Andrew Smith) about the
12 men who landed on the moon; The Greatest Show on Earth (Richard
Dawkins) about the compelling evidence for evolution – loads of
fossils are in the Natural History museum; and The Story of Art (E
Gombrich) about how art evolved from cave drawings to modern art. If
only homework at school had been that interesting.
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k1tYI76rpzU/UMfs8z-ycTI/AAAAAAAACRk/DBbbqX26IyQ/s1600/apollo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="224" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k1tYI76rpzU/UMfs8z-ycTI/AAAAAAAACRk/DBbbqX26IyQ/s320/apollo.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TQSx-GDlZRI/UMfq9IIQsiI/AAAAAAAACKs/BOqSbDR_TLc/s1600/Apollo+landing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TQSx-GDlZRI/UMfq9IIQsiI/AAAAAAAACKs/BOqSbDR_TLc/s320/Apollo+landing.jpg" width="275" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Did this
really orbit the moon in 1969 and return to earth?</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_5QhR7uU6sA/UMyug0JVIxI/AAAAAAAACZ0/1zLpxVruybk/s1600/Apollo+mission.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_5QhR7uU6sA/UMyug0JVIxI/AAAAAAAACZ0/1zLpxVruybk/s320/Apollo+mission.jpg" width="301" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Surely this
was made by Blue Peter, not NASA....</div>
<div align="left" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uJysXKkm9ss/UMfr-UUI_5I/AAAAAAAACOE/nwdPipYYLWs/s1600/Museems.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uJysXKkm9ss/UMfr-UUI_5I/AAAAAAAACOE/nwdPipYYLWs/s320/Museems.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="CENTER" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Really
clever people explaining stuff...</div>
<div align="CENTER" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hYJyIAM4uxk/UMfrTvx9VwI/AAAAAAAACLk/Q9mHYTp_L3w/s1600/Evolution.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hYJyIAM4uxk/UMfrTvx9VwI/AAAAAAAACLk/Q9mHYTp_L3w/s320/Evolution.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="CENTER" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
The
evidence for evolution; bat fingers, giraffe necks, horses feet. I
spent hours in the bones rooms, checking out heads, shoulders, knees
and toes, knees and toes.
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TxqCp0O-fZU/UMfq_EUzbdI/AAAAAAAACK0/dxwZVFWahXA/s1600/Bones.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TxqCp0O-fZU/UMfq_EUzbdI/AAAAAAAACK0/dxwZVFWahXA/s320/Bones.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bkGsvcjhQCg/UMfs92yXfOI/AAAAAAAACRw/bWOLEV6LUMY/s1600/bones2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bkGsvcjhQCg/UMfs92yXfOI/AAAAAAAACRw/bWOLEV6LUMY/s200/bones2.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<div align="CENTER" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Dw2XeXqfwF8/UMywkdsPr3I/AAAAAAAACaM/O7cLuuGjdpI/s1600/Lincoln.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="304" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Dw2XeXqfwF8/UMywkdsPr3I/AAAAAAAACaM/O7cLuuGjdpI/s320/Lincoln.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Lincoln's
Memorial </div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FtFNMZuRSm8/UMfs9dnMRRI/AAAAAAAACRs/nroCYBQxnnw/s1600/WWII+memorial.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="229" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FtFNMZuRSm8/UMfs9dnMRRI/AAAAAAAACRs/nroCYBQxnnw/s320/WWII+memorial.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
WWII
memorial – each star represents 100 American service personnel lost in the
war, but half as many again perished in the Civil War precipitated by
Lincoln's presidency. </div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7SLGjVvNZus/UMfrNFLyPNI/AAAAAAAACLU/o4l-_pOFOUw/s1600/Big+man.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7SLGjVvNZus/UMfrNFLyPNI/AAAAAAAACLU/o4l-_pOFOUw/s320/Big+man.jpg" width="248" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We enjoyed all forms of art on display</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
The staff of
the marina were a little strange but helpful. The second day we were
there they told us the marina was on it's hurricane watch protocol.
We were informed that the marina had been assessed and would not
withstand a Cat2 hurricane, once the full hurricane plan is underway,
at T minus 48hr, they stop taking new boats in and concentrate on
tying down the ones they have.
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Very cheery
news we thought. Still lots of hurricanes and storms had formed and
dissipated throughout the season, and come to nothing on the east
coast, so we carried on going about the business of sightseeing with
this worrying news in mind.
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
We
considered all options for other marinas and going back down the
Potomac to find a narrow winding creek to shelter from the storm, but
decided that staying put with 2 anchors out was as good an option as
any. We spent a couple of days preparing for the worst, taking down
the foresails, stowing all the deck gear, putting chafe-proof gear on
lines on both anchors, hoping that the forecasts were wrong. The
worst times were, firstly, deciding where to place ourselves for the
blow, but once we'd done that we could concentrate on getting our
preparations done. Secondly, watching the barometric pressure plummet
as the 'Frankenstorm' approached the coast, without knowing how
likely the meterologists had got the forecast track right. At one
point it was headed straight for us. After all, as Hurricane Sandy
fused with a huge Nor'easter on its way north, it was supposed to be
unique – how can you forecast a 90 degree turn if it's unique ?–
but the models were right, it did exactly that and New Jersey and New
York bore the brunt of it. The reconstruction is still ongoing 2
months later.
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Insurance
companies write clauses into our boat policies which force us north
of 30 or 35 degrees from 1 June to 1 November (with some variation
between companies), but really Irene last year and Sandy this year
prove that latitude and dates are irrelevant. This year the hurricane
season started in May, before the NOAA hurricane watch centre is up
and running for the year. Sandy came along very late in the year, and
well north – a tropical storm in winter weather clothes. Mad
weather!!</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Well, we
spent most of the storm on the phone, internet and Skype catching up
with people who wondered where we were, so we didn't have too much
spare time for worrying. It was great to chat to everyone too. See
previous blog entry for what happened during Frankenstorm.........</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<a href="http://www.nnvl.noaa.gov/MediaDetail2.php?MediaID=1243&MediaTypeID=3&ResourceID=104719" target="_blank">2012 hurricane season in 4.5minutes</a></div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
We left
Washington behind and headed down to Portsmouth, Virginia, rejoining
our northbound track. This time we took a right turn and headed into
the Great Dismal Swamp canal and national park, an alternative route
of the Intracoastal waterway only taken by pleasure boats of 6' draft
or less.
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--TfySZ6BVUo/UMfraZCMpmI/AAAAAAAACMA/mRM8n0R-dCM/s1600/Free+dock+Dismal+Swamp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="194" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--TfySZ6BVUo/UMfraZCMpmI/AAAAAAAACMA/mRM8n0R-dCM/s320/Free+dock+Dismal+Swamp.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
The canal is
still maintained by the US Army Engineer Corp and is a very pleasant
narrow meander through the back country. A couple of locks maintain
the depth, though we bumped along the bottom at times, probably over
tree trunks in the sandy bottom. Not only is the canal free to
transit, but so is the park and several pontoon berths along the way.
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
We did see
real live bear......poo. A couple of very tame bears posed for their
photos in the visitor centre.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hJeY5oX0hpM/UMfq8tv3_RI/AAAAAAAACKk/0ZB9fOcSd1I/s1600/Bears.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hJeY5oX0hpM/UMfq8tv3_RI/AAAAAAAACKk/0ZB9fOcSd1I/s320/Bears.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="CENTER" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Great
Dismal Swamp Canal bears</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fDE98Up_7Y4/UMfrdKZaEwI/AAAAAAAACMU/iEHCdUuvK1M/s1600/ICW+mist.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="230" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fDE98Up_7Y4/UMfrdKZaEwI/AAAAAAAACMU/iEHCdUuvK1M/s320/ICW+mist.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OKyJ8QS1C0Q/UMfriIa4MxI/AAAAAAAACMc/Kt5N7YruO4Q/s1600/ICW+trees.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OKyJ8QS1C0Q/UMfriIa4MxI/AAAAAAAACMc/Kt5N7YruO4Q/s320/ICW+trees.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div align="CENTER" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="CENTER" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Autumn has
followed us south!Now all the trees are golden</div>
<div align="CENTER" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Elizabeth
City</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Free dock 36
17N 076 13W</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
This town
calls itself the harbour of hospitality. Not only do they provide
free waterfront space for visitors to tie up, but the visitor centre
lends bikes for free and there is a shuttle bus to the supermarket.
We met up with a large bunch of Canadian cruisers headed south for
the winter.
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
As we left
Elizabeth City a Coast Guard RIB followed us down the channel. It was
a cold, grey blustery day and Stu felt sorry for them out on the
water in training, so he gave them a cheery wave. We were sailing
along with full sail up, doing maximum speed in flat water. It didn't
stop them coming alongside and indicating that they wanted to put 2
guys aboard for an inspection.
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Although we
knew it was possible that the USCG can inspect your vessel at any
time, we are the only foreign-flagged boat we know that has been
boarded. We had no idea what to expect..</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
For cruisers
coming to the US, here's the full report I sent to our little fleet
of cruisers up here – feel free to skip it if you like.
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>Coast Guard visits Matador
We were leaving Elizabeth City, still in the river, a couple of miles from being out in the 'open' in the Albemarle Sound. There was a steady stream of boats, power and sail going south that morning - no idea why they picked us out, but we seem to get a visit in every country we are in!
The CG was like a large RIB with polystyrene foam for sides. They indicated that they were going to come alongside and put 2 guys aboard, told us to keep our course and speed - at this time we had full sail up in 20-25 knots downwind, but thinking about reefing for the sound before it got a bit boisterous. First they asked if we had weapons on board. No, we don't.</em>
</div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>I went below to turn off the cooker (I'd been cooking breakfast) and diesel heater and do a few pre coastguard visit things below while they were doing their high speed board. Like tidying up...</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>No 1 sat in the cockpit and did papers, asking questions.</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>No 2 wanted to be below and was told to look around,with his little list in a book (we think he was the trainee)
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>First job 'for their own safety' they wanted us to show them the bilge area and the engine compartment so they can see we are not sinking or on fire. Glad I turned off the diesel heater!!
You can't see our bilge for water tanks, and they were content with a quick peek in the side of the engine bay. </em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>He asked if we had a fixed fire extinguisher in the engine room ( we do, automatic)
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>They wanted boat papers, passports, phone number.
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>They wanted to see the following:
Personal flotation devices for number of people on board
A throw-able flotation device;
A sound making device - he wanted to hear it too. We have a pump up air horn which we wondered if it is not USCG approved, but it seemed to satisfy them once we got it working after an embarrassing pause, then he nearly jumped overboard;
A copy of the collision prevention regs ('international?' I asked -yes)- I couldn't lay my hands on it directly, and fumbled around looking in the bookshelves -they got bored and moved on from that;
Other fire extinguishers - they said it did not matter if they were not US approved, because we are not a US flagged boat;
Asked if we had an oil policy notice and a garbage policy notice - we do have home made ones, thanks to Yindee Plus. He looked at them but didn't read them;
He asked if we had a standard Y valve arrangement on the holding tank. We said yes, and he wanted to see it. I'd slipped a pre-prepared zip tie on it minutes before, and he was happy with what he saw. He didn't check the sea-cock or try to pump the toilet; He asked what training or qualifications we had. Stu reeled off a list, and they didn't ask for proof. Stu mentioned 23000 miles at sea.;
He kept asking if we had access to the internet, not necessarily at sea. Not sure what the relevance of that was;
The trainee was still going on about 'numbers' but he was told by no 1 that we don't need them as we are foreign.
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>He then gave us a yellow copy of his form to keep, which shows that we were inspected and did not have any violations or warnings.
I would have asked more about fines and violations, but we really just wanted them off the boat asap, and we were glad to see the back of them, even though they were very professional. We were navigating at high speed with 8' of water either side of the narrow channel - it was kind of hard to concentrate.
They left and didn't rip the toerail off with their boat, unlike the Spanish CG.
Any questions, email me, and if you want a copy of the oil or garbage notice I can send you one but say thanks to Yindee Plus.</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>
Looking at the yellow paper now, there is a list of possible violations:
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>Numbering
Certificate
Document/Official Number</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>
Personal Flotation device
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>Sound Producing device/
Bell</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>Fire extinguisher</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>Backfire flame control/
Ventilation</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>Marine Sanitation Devices
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>Installed Toilet and no MSD Installed
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>Pollution placard not posted
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>Garbage placard not posted
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>Waste management plan vsls>40'
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>FCC SSL Not posted/available
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>Operation without FCC SSL
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>Nav/Anchor lights (Sunrise-sunset only)
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>Visual distress signals (Sunrise-sunset only)
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>Negligent Operation
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>Intoxicated Operation
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>Unsafe conditions creating especially hazardous conditions
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>Overloaded
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>Fuel leak
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>Accumulation of fuel in bilges.
</em></div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="text-align: left;">
<em>Before you ask, I don't know what FCC SSL is.....</em><br />
<em><br /></em></div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Suffice to
say they were professional and polite, but no doubt we would have
incurred a stupid fine if they couldn't tick their boxes. In Turkey
you can be fined for polluting the water with oil or sewage. In the
US you can be fined for not having a sign stating your oil, garbage
and sewage disposal plan, or for not demonstrating the operation of
your poo handing tank.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
It doesn't
matter if you know the collision regulations like the back of your
hand, you must have the idiot-proof chart on hand. The inspection
focussed on having the correct paperwork, rather than actually what
we were doing. I doubt any person irresponsible enough to throw oil
into the sea, would be in any way deterred by a sign in the boat
saying he shouldn't do it! The regulations are cheap and easy to
abide by, so just do it. By the way, you are also supposed to carry a
copy of your boat papers in the dinghy at all times, and have
lifejackets for all passengers, a light and a sound making device.
Instant fine if caught without – don't say we didn't warn you.
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
From
Elizabeth City we would have liked to visit Roanoak, and the Outer
Banks – the string of islands that make up Cape Hatteras. However,
the water is shallow, the wind strong and wintry and we were warned
that these communities 'roll up the streets' at the end of summer,
and there is little to see or do there out of season. Given unlimited
time, we would still have visited, but more worrying events were
unfolding. For the last 3 oil changes, Stu had been finding tiny but
increasing amounts of swarf in the oil strainer. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WzJF59BgHfM/UMfsOJUBgYI/AAAAAAAACO4/TzlHhjh5Qbs/s1600/Oil+strainer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WzJF59BgHfM/UMfsOJUBgYI/AAAAAAAACO4/TzlHhjh5Qbs/s320/Oil+strainer.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="CENTER" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Shiny bits
– but not where we like to see them!</div>
<div align="CENTER" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="CENTER" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Most engines
don't have a strainer and the bits would have gone unseen into the
oil filter and into the bin. But we couldn't keep ignoring these
bits, even though the engine was working perfectly. The oil pressure
was fine, no smoke, no noise, no knocking – nothing to suggest
anything was amiss. Knowing there were friends and expert engineers
at Jarrett Bay, we pulled in hoping that it would just be for a night
or 2 to track down and tackle the problem.</div>
<div align="CENTER" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Jarrett Bay
Boatworks, 20<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">th</span></sup> November 2012</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
North of
Beaufort, North Carolina.
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
34 48N 076
41W</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YdFamTpMWY8/UMfsgP494WI/AAAAAAAACQQ/q12Xfb7SaDI/s1600/Sports+fishing+boats.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="146" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YdFamTpMWY8/UMfsgP494WI/AAAAAAAACQQ/q12Xfb7SaDI/s400/Sports+fishing+boats.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Jarrett Bay
has fantastic facilities for boats and engines and all sorts of work
is done here. The core business are the sports fishing boats, whose
engine services cost $20000! It's amazing that they are at all
interested in our puny horsepowers and cheque books. However they are
as friendly and helpful as can be. The owners of these boats are in
another league. It costs $1000 in fuel to go out fishing for a day –
60 miles out to where the marlin live. The engines guzzle 100 gallons
an hour. Mindblowing, eh?</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
It is 8 miles to the nearest bar or restaurant – the perfect
getaway for recovering socialaholics!!
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Over several
days, and either side of Thanksgiving, many people came and gave
their expert advice and assistance. The engine was turned on it's
side to access the sump and larger shiny bits were found.
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-thjN5pFJtLE/UMy0Xf943iI/AAAAAAAACao/Q9ovhJgFlvw/s1600/Bearing+bits.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-thjN5pFJtLE/UMy0Xf943iI/AAAAAAAACao/Q9ovhJgFlvw/s320/Bearing+bits.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
It appeared
that one of the bearings was breaking down, but as more and more of
the engine was taken to bits we could not find a single bearing that
was not immaculate. Pretty amazing for a 34 year old engine, proving
that Meryl the Merc was well over-engineered.</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Heads were
scratched and many experts consulted in the yard and back in the UK.
The biggest spanner and wrench imaginable were defeated by the pulley
at the end of the engine and there remained no choice but to haul the
engine out of the boat for further surgery.
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
While Brian
and Gaston at Performance Diesel took the engine to bits, we sourced
the parts for rebuilding the engine. All the original parts were
still available from Mercedes, and most were even found within the
USA, even though none of the engineers had ever seen a Mercedes
engine here.
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
They found
the cause of the problem – one lousy bearing, possibly some water
contamination of one bearing from the engine refit 8 years ago. Or
maybe it wasn't made as well as the other bearings – the Friday
afternoon bearing.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DoybVBkLsp8/UMfsSHkD0bI/AAAAAAAACPI/3vEVKwyDpvo/s1600/One+lousy+bearing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DoybVBkLsp8/UMfsSHkD0bI/AAAAAAAACPI/3vEVKwyDpvo/s320/One+lousy+bearing.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
It looks
just like a cookie cutter doesn't it? I thought I might have it made
into a bracelet – it's expensive enough – but Stu says it will
give me lead poisoning.
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
We had a
couple of days of confidence crisis, and started looking at new
engines. However, the new ones look smaller and lighter than my
sewing machine and didn't fill me with confidence. It's a whole can
of worms to re-engine, to match the propeller, alternator, charging
systems, control levers – a 6 month project to choose the right
engine and do the installation right. As all experts agreed that
Meryl still had years of good service in her, inside she looked
hardly used, we continued with the rebuild. The cost of the parts
to rebuild was a measly £380. The labour costs are the killer, so
Stu is doing as much grunt work as he can himself.
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Not a single
stage of this drama was without its snags, and we even had to load
Meryl into a truck and drive her 60 miles inland to a machine shop
and engine rebuilders. Here 3 engineer clones who operated at the
pace of the most meticulous snail, machined the new camshaft bearing
to fit the hole, and tested it in the back of the truck (it was in a
box to protect it from road dirt). These guys build racing car
engines, and really know their stuff. You could eat your dinner off
the floor, it was so clean and tidy. Its a shame that young people
are not learning what these guys do, it is a whole generation of
expertise that will be lost forever when they go. I have big respect
for what they know,and what they can make work. They were so
meticulous, considering every move before they did anything - it
saves costly errors. I wouldn't like to be standing behind them in a
fire though. |I can just see that the first response to Fire Fire
would be to bend down and carefully check their shoe laces before
making their way to the carefully calculated nearest exit. But what
confidence they inspire.</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nlJ419rdwS0/UMfsriZqAlI/AAAAAAAACQg/tWw9t9LU5Bc/s1600/Stroud+cam+shaft+fitting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nlJ419rdwS0/UMfsriZqAlI/AAAAAAAACQg/tWw9t9LU5Bc/s320/Stroud+cam+shaft+fitting.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
The lovely
shiny truck was lent to us by a really nice guy, for the duration of our stay. He
also gave up his Sunday to help us left the engine onto it's side.
Thank you so much Toby and Jessie, hope you get out and start living
the dream soon! Our friends have been running around all over for us, and bringing oysters and shrimp and other delicacies to keep our spirits up. </div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
So many
fabulous, generous people have helped us out here, we will always
have fond memories of North Carolina, despite the engine woes.
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Well, Meryl
was lowered back through the hatch onto her engine mounts yesterday,
with no millimeters to spare. It will take a day or so to reconnect
the spaghetti of wires and pipes, and then the moment of truth –
will she still run perfectly again with no noise, smoke or nasty
knockings?</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eHeem6UgpDA/UMy1_-kUGjI/AAAAAAAACa8/0OltFVBDZ2s/s1600/Engine+bay+spaghettid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eHeem6UgpDA/UMy1_-kUGjI/AAAAAAAACa8/0OltFVBDZ2s/s320/Engine+bay+spaghettid.jpg" width="247" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Engine bay spaghetti</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JB5MKxo_mcQ/UMy1_83xweI/AAAAAAAACbA/L711FsK3g58/s1600/Meryl+comes+home.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="263" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JB5MKxo_mcQ/UMy1_83xweI/AAAAAAAACbA/L711FsK3g58/s320/Meryl+comes+home.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Meryl comes home</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
If so, we
stand a chance of heading south to the Bahamas before our visas
expire on 12<sup>th</sup> January, only 600 miles away at sea, but a
lot more down the ICW avoiding the nasty weather that forms from Cape
Hatteras. It is the birthplace of the depressions that head across
to old England all winter.
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Look out for
our winlink position changing, then you'll know that we are on the
move again, hopefully without the assistance of Towboat US.
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-57234641858007771762012-10-30T02:00:00.000+02:002012-10-30T02:00:08.294+02:00Sandy on the riseAs of 7pm local time the National Hurricane Centre are showing that Sandy has dropped to 75 knots and the central pressure is rising. So it is now 'only' a tropical storm. Winds have not increased over the last hours, we have 20 - 30 knots with occasional gusts of around 45knots. The conditions are pretty good, no worse than an gale in Poole Harbour, actually a lot warmer!!<br />
We're expecting lots more rain and about this much rain all day tomorrow, but all is well on board.<br />
Have to say I'm very impressed with the accuracy of the weather predictions and the preparedness of all the civic departments both here and in New York. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiauOH5KQvguzssDWJscnw1yPRd6eMQz2vWieMh5NxMaGGDbN_Do3PuJ-YdXn8i26olq0vKiI-noDMx010YTejXPjqWhXtHAsNoSYpxUPHYemN0-MxYmqNt7Ih5RMrI75G_2Xtzms-QQRA/s1600/Park-at-sunset-29-Oct.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="159" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiauOH5KQvguzssDWJscnw1yPRd6eMQz2vWieMh5NxMaGGDbN_Do3PuJ-YdXn8i26olq0vKiI-noDMx010YTejXPjqWhXtHAsNoSYpxUPHYemN0-MxYmqNt7Ih5RMrI75G_2Xtzms-QQRA/s320/Park-at-sunset-29-Oct.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boring view of the park today, not underwater, just before sunset</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxQ0urmdynCOZw73249KvYWIxnmhLNSTfSIzv5lElpmIzDTLklQ4GA6lgQde5hIXA3ah22dr3KeIlh99ug2EQCR2MfuZ3ycRRNdLj20eJKtNcG4IHswobxwtqah7g4CzA7aJsPpSO6Aqs/s1600/Stu-in-togs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxQ0urmdynCOZw73249KvYWIxnmhLNSTfSIzv5lElpmIzDTLklQ4GA6lgQde5hIXA3ah22dr3KeIlh99ug2EQCR2MfuZ3ycRRNdLj20eJKtNcG4IHswobxwtqah7g4CzA7aJsPpSO6Aqs/s320/Stu-in-togs.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stu in his anchor watch togs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y9cluQLADy8/UI8YD-0oh6I/AAAAAAAACJ8/2OTWseKDdOE/s1600/Sandy-29-Oct-1100.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y9cluQLADy8/UI8YD-0oh6I/AAAAAAAACJ8/2OTWseKDdOE/s320/Sandy-29-Oct-1100.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sandy earlier today merging with the cold front from the NW. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-90523262800407111662012-10-28T22:37:00.000+02:002012-10-28T22:37:15.288+02:00Frankenstorm, Washington DC<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k-P7WNkLfZQ/UI2W9JOs4GI/AAAAAAAACJM/XUiY3m7JbWs/s1600/Satellite-Sandy-1300-28Oct2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="215" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k-P7WNkLfZQ/UI2W9JOs4GI/AAAAAAAACJM/XUiY3m7JbWs/s320/Satellite-Sandy-1300-28Oct2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Well, we thought we were pretty smart, spending hurricane season all the way up north in Maine, and coming south so late that we nearly froze. We didn't bank on getting a late hurricane in Chesapeake Bay – seems a bit unfair! Not just a hurricane, but it's going to blend with a big cold front to create 'Frankenstorm', as the media have dubbed it. Lots of hype on the TV and international media, as we wait to see where Hurricane Sandy will make landfall. Hope it will go north of us, as the current forecast models show and turn up to New York, leaving us on the edge of the weather – but they are unpredictable by nature, so we have prepared the boat for the worst and can't do any more about it, but watch and wait.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiCtngYCD3sd9h4hVP-04zYLDx4t41r7oKwd25lORWCgx12UXUc2x6nkMpaGLAwBh5O4mo_-_y-j3Da26aTz28AwMVd96b_Z_4obDHuoiZIYVJnbiqpss2xvE5DNhQFWnqqpKo57PIvZ8/s1600/Trackprojection.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiCtngYCD3sd9h4hVP-04zYLDx4t41r7oKwd25lORWCgx12UXUc2x6nkMpaGLAwBh5O4mo_-_y-j3Da26aTz28AwMVd96b_Z_4obDHuoiZIYVJnbiqpss2xvE5DNhQFWnqqpKo57PIvZ8/s320/Trackprojection.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
There are good forecasts and radar images on www.accuweather.com for information on the current situation without the hype.<br />
Hype aside it will be the biggest storm to hit USA in 100 years. Hopefully we will tell you more later.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheYXWn4i4yR5ytsGwxJrkT2vcvwVBrvdbIYO9Avu-CjdlQWGyqYLJvrW-aNzoB4IIij4Z0NTUR7TLpNxehXb0YJDNUQQbHMquaRIHrLJ6a2b4WA3nCmoLbeS9BVfKC2J9wLcLC73Xosuw/s1600/Washington-DC-position.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheYXWn4i4yR5ytsGwxJrkT2vcvwVBrvdbIYO9Avu-CjdlQWGyqYLJvrW-aNzoB4IIij4Z0NTUR7TLpNxehXb0YJDNUQQbHMquaRIHrLJ6a2b4WA3nCmoLbeS9BVfKC2J9wLcLC73Xosuw/s320/Washington-DC-position.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Currently we are anchored in a stump of river right in the heart of Washington DC, with 3 other boats. There is a marina here, but the staff didn't fill us with confidence that it wouldn't break up, so we feel safer out on the hook, with second anchor ready on deck to be deployed if necessary. The biggest risk to the marina is the storm surge, caused by a combination of heavy rain, high spring tide and the hurricane at sea pushing the water up the Chesapeake bay so that the water backs up higher and higher. Washington DC and New York are both low lying, with poor sea defences. Also they have metro systems just below ground level, which have vents direct on the street above – if the water level rises and floods the road, it pours down into the Metro below. This is why the cities go into state of emergency and everything shuts down. With our water tanks, food supplies, sanitation and our own power, light and heat, we are streets ahead in preparation compared to the general public if they get the power outages as predicted. We 'just' have to make sure our anchor stays put in the thick gloopy mud here, and ride up and down in our little Ark as the tide rises in our protected little basin.<br />
Well, it is now Sunday afternoon, we've had no rain and no wind to speak of. Just cloudy skies so far, and life is going on as usual around us – the Washington marathon runners just went through the park behind us. The park may well be underwater by tomorrow!<br />
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<br />
We are hunkered down with plenty of supplies and well equipped with hurricane advice gleaned from many fellow cruisers, who've sailed up and down this coast before.<br />
I'll try and keep you posted on the weather we get, here on the blog, in the next couple of days.<br />
Thanks for all your emails wishing us well.<br />
Steph and Stu xx<br />
Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-34355519832954424482012-09-09T17:25:00.000+03:002012-10-01T18:51:17.400+03:00US of A, Matador heads north to Maine Part II<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
Once upon a blue moon, Matador turns around in Maine. </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Since August is a blue moon month, it would seem appropriate to do a blog update. A blue moon is when 2 full moons occur in the same month, so I'm informed. Free free to contest that.<br />
Thanks to the 3 of you that bugged me about the lack of updates, I guess 3 constitutes an audience, so I will persevere. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rYXWHRYz4DU/UGNrinhlMDI/AAAAAAAACHE/-nVtd6uBJH0/s1600/Winlink+USA+map.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="155" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rYXWHRYz4DU/UGNrinhlMDI/AAAAAAAACHE/-nVtd6uBJH0/s320/Winlink+USA+map.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
Those of you who follow the winlink position (top right 3rd link down) will know that we are all the way up in Maine at the top of the USA, the last state before Canada. This wasn't what was intended. We thought we would potter around the Chesapeake Bay until the hurricane season had passed, then head south again. Well, the main problem with this plan, is that in July and August Chesapeake is hot enough to boil a lobster alive, the water is hot, full of tannin, jellyfish and snakes. It was also having a heat wave, so we came on north until we started to wear socks and put the duvet back on the bed. We naively thought that you went north to Chesapeake to get away from the hurricanes coming up from the Caribbean from July to November. Well, it helps, but as we chatted to people in each location, they remember hurricane Irene, in New York, in Boston, in Cape Ann, and found that superyachts come all the way to Maine to weather hurricanes in the excellent protected anchorages here. Yes, that means hurricanes come all the way up here – sometimes. Well, you probably also know that they go all the way to England and create horrible summer storms too. But, they will be much, much less bad than staying in the Caribbean, or Florida.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qcyeNDwyQqc/UGNrUViJ4QI/AAAAAAAACDg/BTwrvWLrbSM/s1600/2008_base+all+storms.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="247" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qcyeNDwyQqc/UGNrUViJ4QI/AAAAAAAACDg/BTwrvWLrbSM/s320/2008_base+all+storms.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Our internet sessions always start with the excellent www.nhc.noaa.gov website, which tracks and predicts tropical storms, and you can check out all the previous years tracks too, and learn the difference between tropical depressions, tropical storms (TS)and each category of hurricane – so I don't have to explain it. Our insurance companies write TS clauses in our contracts that force us to certain latitudes by certain dates to ensure coverage for damages. The tropical storms had a really early start in May this year, we watched them pass us by in the Bahamas, as they went up the US coast. TS Beryl chased our friends up the US coast – their insurers told them to be north of 35 degrees by 1 June. Beryl went right over them at 35N on 2 June, and we enjoyed a few more weeks down in the Bahamas, out of the tracks because of different insurance. Lucky our friends didn't get too much wind, or any damage, but they were forced into that position by their insurance cover!<br />
After Beryl and Chris in June it all went quiet for a while. Now they are lining up one after the other, Leslie being the latest,as they work through the alphabetical names. So we are happy to remain up here for a few more weeks, until long sleeves and trousers become the daily attire, and then it really will be time to head south to the sun again. We don't want to get frozen in for the winter.<br />
Maine is a beautiful cruising ground, with many bays rivers and natural anchorages. Dolphins and seals are all around, and occasionally whales can be seen. The waterline is thick with trees and there are plenty of opportunities for walks and cycles. We like it so much we might even come all the way back next year!!<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3M5Anajpkm8/UGNrhL3YH4I/AAAAAAAACGc/9isvGOiMqVI/s1600/Seal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="124" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3M5Anajpkm8/UGNrhL3YH4I/AAAAAAAACGc/9isvGOiMqVI/s320/Seal.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It's dual drawbacks are frequent fog and zillions of lobster pots. The sea bottom must be crawling with lobsters this time of year, and the cost is down to $3/lb of live lobster. Not even the big ship channels are left free of pots – they are just everywhere, so it doesn't make for very relaxing passage making. We have to be on our guard constantly so as not to run one down and get it wrapped around the propeller or rudder. Add 100m visibility to the mix, and it doesn't make for a fun day on the water. Now September is just around the corner the autumnal weather brings clear blue skies (after the cold fronts), warming sun and a nip in the air, and unfortunately for yachties, a bit of mildew!<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z0E2IsnYFOs/UGNre995qSI/AAAAAAAACGE/7yl3BW5r0rI/s1600/Penobscot+river.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z0E2IsnYFOs/UGNre995qSI/AAAAAAAACGE/7yl3BW5r0rI/s320/Penobscot+river.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Bangor, 26 August 2012 LATITUDE: 44-46.49N LONGITUDE: 068-47.19W<br />
Our northern most point in Maine was Bangor, up the Penobscot river, the venue for the American Folk Festival. It is a 3 day event featuring music that reflects the roots of America's settler history from Indian hoop dancing, tap dancing cowboys (I kid you not), swing bands, blues, cajun, bluegrass, afro-american and latin american music. As well as lots of fiddling and banjo playing it was a history education in itself. There was even a band of guys, all of Croatian descent, looking like the mafia playing little guitar things – they were awesome.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HxeTazA3l8o/UGNrVUY4LwI/AAAAAAAACD4/r4QymF7Ggxg/s1600/Cajun+band.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HxeTazA3l8o/UGNrVUY4LwI/AAAAAAAACD4/r4QymF7Ggxg/s320/Cajun+band.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PF14VGog26c/UGNrab3hwZI/AAAAAAAACE8/ugT3KNDRncg/s1600/Croatian+band.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="139" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PF14VGog26c/UGNrab3hwZI/AAAAAAAACE8/ugT3KNDRncg/s320/Croatian+band.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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We picked up a mooring at Waterfront marina, 2 miles downstream of the festival and enjoyed peace and quiet on the river between music sessions. We were reminded how much we enjoy pottering up rivers, away from the turmoil of the sea, it is so peaceful and pretty up there.<br />
<br />
Now we are back in Camden for the Windjammer festival, pretty old wooden schooners with no engines, beautifully restored to their heyday glory. After racing, they are pushed back into the bay by little boats – traditionally they would have been rowing boats I guess.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-klUDrFXmoJE/UGNrpUcj6kI/AAAAAAAACIk/pFb8Sg11OOY/s1600/schooner+with+boat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-klUDrFXmoJE/UGNrpUcj6kI/AAAAAAAACIk/pFb8Sg11OOY/s320/schooner+with+boat.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
There are lots of watery activities planned for the weekend. We're here with Yindee Plus, Daydreamer, Full Monty, Interlude and Moonshadow, old friends and new ones thanks to the SSB radio, and our net at 9am on 8161. It has been really great for keeping in touch with others up and down the coast, and ensured we have had plenty of opportunities for socialising. <br />
<br />
Well, here is a run-down of the places we have visited on our way north. Hopefully you can see why we haven't had time to write about it!<br />
<br />
Castine &Smith Cove 21 August 2012<br />
LATITUDE: 44-22.34N LONGITUDE: 068-46.83W<br />
Castine is a historic old town, occupied by the Brits in 1812 in a 'humiliating' defeat according to the tourist leaflet. You can wander the leafy avenues and admire the restored homes of the rich and successful. The town has 300 huge elm trees, carefully saved from the the nasty dutch disease. We enjoyed the music on Waterfront Wednesday and an organic farmers market (Thurs) – a bit of an expensive treat, but very welcome after the half-frozen supermarket offerings that turn to mush as soon as they reach the boat.<br />
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<br />
Smith cove, a 2 mile deep bay is a very pretty anchorage, with exceptional sticky mud. It is a hurricane hole, meaning it has 360 degree protection from wind and waves. Superyachts come from New York to anchor here in bad weather. With a bit more time we would have explored the numerous walking tracks and cycled the gravel track among the gorgeous holiday homes in the forest. Initial explorations ended in a bit of a mosquito misery, so we'll go armed and prepared next time around. It would be a great place to gunk-hole, and see to Matador's peeling varnish and UV degraded canvas work – but the Windjammer Fest and friends beckoned.<br />
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Pulpit Harbour, North Haven<br />
LAT 44-09.24N LONG 068-53.07W<br />
Another gem of an anchorage. We wrestled the bikes into the dinghy and ashore. It was such a luxury to cycle in chilly air again. We discovered an oyster store (24 hour with honesty fridge) and Stu gorged on a bakers dozen for $10. Myself, I can't see the appeal of slurping grey blob from a briny shell, but lots of people seem to love it, so I must be the odd'un. For an island store, North Haven is very unusual, having a wealth of good quality products from around the world, and not at crazy island prices. We partied with Kurt and Katy on Interlude and had a lovely dinner and a bit of music practice with them – they played, we practiced.<br />
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Camden and the Ocean Cruising Club 20 August 2012<br />
LATITUDE: 44-20.97N LONGITUDE: 069-04.87W<br />
Camden Yacht club were hosting the Ocean Cruising Club meet, so we came here to meet up with a few of the members. There were a bunch of younger cruising couples (Serafina, Saltwhistle III, Egret, Blue Highway and Makushla) in the club. We joined them for the lobster dinner and decided to join up. You need to have completed a 1000 mile ocean passage and be nominated by a member. The benefits are the knowledge and help from a host of Port Officers in various locations, who do their utmost to welcome transient club members visiting their home towns. It must be an extensive knowledge base of people who have cruised all over. Well, we'll see after the first year if we think it is worthwhile and report back. We would have joined them for their mini-cruise-in-company, but we were committed to Bangor Music festival and couldn't do both.<br />
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Rockland Harbour Lobster galore<br />
44-06.00N 69-05.94W<br />
Like many other bays in Maine (and the US in general) mooring buoys have proliferated in the last 10 years, without much thought for us transient folk who like to lay our anchor for whatever reason, cost, comfort, size or preference. Where the charts show a 'designated anchorage area' it is usually stuffed full of mooring balls and we are no longer 'allowed' to anchor between them, being relegated to the outskirts of the mooring field, or in some cases, such as Belfast, outside the harbour altogether and in the swell. But to be fair although some of the best spots or anchorages have disappeared we have successfully anchored almost everywhere with one exception ( see Plymouth) and been welcomed by harbourmaster and the locals, all the same.<br />
Moorings a plenty in Rockland, but still a bit of room for us on the edge. It was a very arty little town, and a comfortable cycle to the supermarkets, which makes a change. We celebrated our 10,000 miles passage from Turkey (and 20,000 miles overall) with a meal at the excellent Lobsterman's restaurant. So called, because, guess what, he is a lobsterman. He goes out at 5am and pulls up his pots, brings back his catch for the day, then starts work in his restaurant preparing pounds of lobster, crab and other shellfish. It was excellent food and really good value – we have not matched it anywhere else in Maine. We plan to go back and Stu has asked if he can go out on the lobster boat to see how it all works. I will eat my hat if he gets up at 5am to go out on a chilly morning without whimpering, but we'll see.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TDy_Qf8ULNc/UGNrhr4WCTI/AAAAAAAACGw/s3prr2GvJAQ/s1600/Stu+looks+like+seafood.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TDy_Qf8ULNc/UGNrhr4WCTI/AAAAAAAACGw/s3prr2GvJAQ/s320/Stu+looks+like+seafood.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Is it true that people start to resemble the food they eat?</td></tr>
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Boothbay Harbour 17 August 2012<br />
LATITUDE: 43-50.88N LONGITUDE: 069-38.08W<br />
We didn't find much to commend this place – well, it was raining as well. Stuffed full of holiday makers and had the tourism takeover. I guess we should give the towns credit for the restoration of their waterfronts, and the proliferation of eateries, but it seems to us that the towns have lost their individuality – they all have the same look and feel and it's hard to see any local people or find real community events. This felt like a roll'em in, rip'em off and shutdown for winter type of place.<br />
(Apparently there are lots of pleasant anchorages around Boothbay so we'll visit those next time rather than the town)<br />
The redeeming feature of towns like this is the pubs serving beer and cider from local micro-breweries and hosting excellent bands. At one such bar, with a very entertaining band, at half-time the guitarist offered around some interesting home-made cookies with a distinctive smell and taste– guaranteed to ensure his audience appreciated the second half even more.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IB8D6M7Io2E/UGNreuaa0WI/AAAAAAAACGA/xawJo6Tb9wQ/s1600/Lobster.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IB8D6M7Io2E/UGNreuaa0WI/AAAAAAAACGA/xawJo6Tb9wQ/s320/Lobster.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes it is!!</td></tr>
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Jewel Island 15 August 2012<br />
LATITUDE: 43-41.36N<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>LONGITUDE: 070-05.37W<br />
A little get away from it all island, to celebrate our arrival in Maine. There is nothing ashore except some walking tracks leading to WWII watch towers to climb and admire the view. Lovely little place given over to campers and boaters. I even had a swim and as a result of the extremely cold water had an endolphin experience – like endorphins, but you only get them in cold water. To understand you need to read Waterlogged, an sublime book by Roger Deakin.<br />
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Ile de Shoals 13 August 2012<br />
LATITUDE: 42-58.76N LONGITUDE: 070-36.79W<br />
A strange little anchorage formed by building low breakwaters to join up 3 islands in the middle of nowhere. Plymouth Yacht Club have laid some moorings here for members, but are free for the use of others when no members are on them. It would be a bit of a bummer at the end of the day to be turfed off and have to go out to sea, but that is unlikely if you avoid visiting at weekends. The island is owned by and home to a large church, and is a private retreat, but visitors are welcome and apparently not subjected to any unwelcome brainwashing activities.<br />
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Rockport 8 August 2012<br />
LATITUDE: 42-39.71N LONGITUDE: 070-37.21W<br />
We quickly exhausted the lobster shacks and tourist trap shops of Rockport (who needs to buy overpriced sun-dried tomato paste, or Spanish paprika on holiday in Maine?) we tried to leave for more northern shores. It is quite pretty and looks a lot like North Brittany where we spent most of our summer sailing holidays, learning skills that the average US sailor never gets the chance to practice, like anchoring in strong currents and high tides. Dodging crab pot markers and blind navigation in fog, Still the pink granite boulders on the shoreline and sublime evening light conditions make us reminisce about those crazy days.<br />
At 6am, 7, 8 and 9 we peeked out and it was still foggy. At 10 we left, sailed straight into thick fog, thought 'why are we doing this?' and went back and anchored again. By the afternoon the fog had cleared, and we decided to go back south 10 miles to Gloucester to try for the Blues Festival there. We anchored in the inner harbour and found the harbourmaster very helpful. It was a bit tight among the fishing boats at anchor but asked the harbourmaster's advice and found a spot with swinging room. There are moorings for a very reasonable $25 a night, but no pressure to take one.<br />
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Gloucester 10 August 2012<br />
LATITUDE: 42-36.63N LONGITUDE: 070-39.41W<br />
The town is a real working-class hard-man deep-sea fishing harbour. We weren't put off by the noise from the fish-packing factories and a thousand fat seagulls, or even some rain.<br />
Once you get the locals talking they are friendly and fascinating. The Andrea Gale (of Perfect Storm fame) was based in this port, and the deep sea fishing heritage is in evidence all around.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8h7eWx0P4PQ/UGNrb-VTsAI/AAAAAAAACFQ/yvFsDdfsUQs/s1600/Gloucester+schooner+fishing+boat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="139" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8h7eWx0P4PQ/UGNrb-VTsAI/AAAAAAAACFQ/yvFsDdfsUQs/s320/Gloucester+schooner+fishing+boat.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old schooners like this would have fished the Grand Banks</td></tr>
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We went for a drink at the Crow's nest pub (look it up on Tripadvisor) and watched the closing ceremony of the Olympics. Having a few beers and missing dinner the landlady let us order and eat a Chinese take away there. They are so friendly,and we met the local characters. I would move to this town so it would be my local pub. There is a certain reluctance amongst the people we met for the town to be beautified and the waterfront to be developed. We agree, keep it as it is, fascinating, unique and a bit rough around the edges - there's nothing wrong with that. The noise and clatter of boats unloading the days catch and a buzz around the docks of people making a just but hard earned living from the sea, beats the glamour of people making an all smiles, hard milked living out of passing tourists and holidaymakers, sitting on docks eating seafood imported from other surviving fishery towns. These tourist fishing towns are devoid of noise and smells, and completely missing the reason why the docks are there in the first place. We can name several holiday towns where people come from far and wide to eat fish /lobster and there isn't a single fishing boat in the port. Gloucester is not like that and we hope it stays that way.<br />
There is an interesting cycle around the classy north shore. We came across a Stop and Shop supermarket on the way back (about a mile from the harbour). Great supermarket with lots of stuff we were despairing of ever finding at reasonable prices - olive oil, cheddar cheese, British tea bags, UHT milk etc. We tentatively asked if they did deliveries and the young manager said, yes indeed, why not? and delivered our shopping to the coast guard station in her own car!!<br />
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So the purpose of our stop was to attend the Blues festival - a first for Gloucester. The line up included Eddie Shaw and Lucky Peterson - names which didn't mean a lot to us, but were obviously big ones! It was a great day out, and followed up by free live music in one of many bars in the harbour loop.<br />
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So a great little town, friendly people, interesting history and we'll be back for more on our return trip down the coast.<br />
There is a train link to Boston city from Gloucester (about 1 hour and you can take your bike) so that might be the easiest way visit the city, and we might do that on the way back south.<br />
(Note 2 public dinghy docks - next to CG boat and harbourmaster office, for town, or Cripple Creek cove for the north shore. Laundromat, big pharmacy/convenience store, about 5 mins walk from CG).<br />
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Plymouth (of the Mayflower fame), Massachusets.<br />
41-57.86N 70-38.80W<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZuuPtpF6J94/UGNrjRCQrFI/AAAAAAAACHQ/aMWCaSwkNFo/s1600/Plymouth+Mayflower.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZuuPtpF6J94/UGNrjRCQrFI/AAAAAAAACHQ/aMWCaSwkNFo/s320/Plymouth+Mayflower.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Mayflower - a replica</td></tr>
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We aimed here as a convenient stop and to catch up with Full Monty stuck in the marina doing essential boat works, and in need of cruiser company. We found that mooring buoys had been put in the only decent anchorage near town, and the harbour master charges $40 a night ( no facilities). So now you can anchor in a tight spot north of the moorings, but someone has to stay on board, or anchor out in the Cow yard 2 miles out (and keep someone on board). We took a mooring and headed in to pay our dues. We found the rudest and most grumpiest American yet in the harbourmaster/police office. First he growled about us tying up our dinghy (which was well out of the way as it turned out), then barked had we cleared customs, phoned Customs&Border Patrol etc, which we had. Then he slammed down a form and barked - fill that in. There were 2 young officers in the office with him, who were good-naturedly chatting with us at the time - fancy them having to work with such a grump every day. We offered up our cash - but they don't take cash ( as someone has had their hand in the till previously - this being the police!) and no cards - only money orders or cheques - which we don't have, not being locals. So he gave us a business card and told us to post one once we got round to it. “I promise the cheque is in the post.”<br />
We had a great night with Full Monty, and didn't get around to visiting the town, which has far too many tourists for it's own good! Thanks to Mr Grump we decided to move on the next day.<br />
<br />Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-90468782440752029622012-09-06T18:07:00.000+03:002012-10-01T18:47:43.919+03:00US of A Matador heads north to Maine Part IOnset Harbour and Cape Cod Canal 6 August 2012<br />
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LATITUDE: 41-44.10N LONGITUDE: 070-39.04W<br />
Onset harbour is a delightful little spot, a very protected anchorage just before the canal entrance. Nice little village ashore, but the shop only had vegetables older than the ones I had on board, and no meat (There's a farmers market on Wed 12-4).<br />
Just a few miles away is the Wareham river. New England has so many familiar place names, Portland, Plymouth, Portsmouth, Weymouth, Gloucester, Southampton - but no Poole, which is bizarre as Poole was a bustling sea port in the days of the settlers. Perhaps it was so rough, that no-one wanted to name a new settlement after it!! Bournemouth was still just a pile of sand dunes in those days.<br />
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The Cape Cod canal is 15 miles long and totally free (unlike the Corinth canal at $6 a minute!)- it saves going out into the rough currents of the Cape. With the current in our favour we were swept along on a magic carpet and spat out into the clearer and much colder water (19C) of Cape Cod bay.<br />
Swimming in the Bahamas is now a long distant and cherished memory.<br />
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Cuttyhunk Island and Long Island Sound.<br />
5 August 2012 LATITUDE: 41-25.70N LONGITUDE: 070-54.94<br />
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On entry to the Long Island Sound fog banks started to close in. We used the radar for the first time since Gibraltar. A small target turned out to be a fishing pot marker, then the same size radar target a few minutes later turned into an idiot sports fishing boat tied to a buoy, like a sitting duck and at the end of a major shipping lane. He loomed out of the fog about 100 yards ahead, and we swerved around him. He looked quite surprised to see us! Lucky we weren't an oil tanker!!<br />
The fog lifted and we decided to extend our trip to get to Cuttyhunk island. As we came around the corner into the outer anchorage we were surprised to see about 60 boats there. We dropped anchor behind Yindee Plus, and the fog immediately rolled in and we couldn't even see them - though we could hear the kids playing on deck - better than a fog horn! It stayed for the night, as thick as a heavy curtain, until the morning sun burnt it off and we could explore the island with Sue, Chris, Sid and Wilf.<br />
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The Cuttyhunk historical society were particularly interested to hear about our kiwi friends Chris and Irene, and their boat named Cuttyhunk - now in the Pacific, and were really keen to know about the history of the boat. Turns out that it was the favourite place of the previous owner - as simple as that. Who know's why we are called Matador, which means killer in Spanish!<br />
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Cape May, Atlantic City and Barnegat Light Inlet.<br />
These were just quick stops for us on the way north up the Long Beach of New Jersey.<br />
Cape May (27 July, LATITUDE: 38-57.03N LONGITUDE: 074-53.07W) is a busy tourist sea-side town with lots of perfectly preserved large Victorian weatherboard seaside houses. It goes to show the prosperity of the town (and the country), so close to New York. We are used to seeing Victorian seaside houses in abundance in UK, but not normally so beautifully painted and preserved - more often in some decline, like well-heeled old ladies whose clothes are starting to be worn and shabby.<br />
Couldn't resist the sea food here, got stuffed two nights in a row at the Lobster House, a simple fish market that cooks and provides meals in take out packaging to eat at free tables along the dock side. We had 6 Oysters on ice and Crab soup for starters, King prawns x 12 or so, then Shrimp stuffed with Crab and Devilled Clams all with coleslaw, chips and dips and of course 2 pitchers of Blue moon beer. Remarkably the dinghy still planed all the way home, good job as we could barely walk. Total about $65. You could easily be satisfied for about half that but that's not the USA way. Fishermen elsewhere could do well to take a look at this model instead of complaining about the wholesale price for lobsters, currently under $3 per pound, up north. If a few were to get their heads together in many of the ports, and go direct to the consumer, their future might look considerably brighter.<br />
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Atlantic City - just a convenient anchorage with high rise casinos all around. Did not go ashore!! LATITUDE: 39-22.88N LONGITUDE: 074-25.33W<br />
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Barnegat Light Inlet LATITUDE: 39-45.58N LONGITUDE: 074-06.98W. 2 Aug.<br />
Nice anchorage and friendly bar ashore, free music on the beach at the bandstand. No free public dock for the dink - in this area all of the foreshore is owned and private/off limits/ or only for fee-paying customers.<br />
Would be lovely kayaking around here among the sandbars, but dangerous waters, by the sound of the number of calls to the coast guard around here. In one day, we heard of a heart attack on a fishing boat, a boat on fire and a couple of people missing in the water. Next day 2 boats taking on water - as well as the many plonkers who've run out of fuel and need a tow. Note that the currents do run fiercely in the entrance and cause considerable turbulence,you should certainly watch your step if you don't want to join in the coast guard conversations.<br />
We did hear a call to the tow boat U.S. for assistance as a shark had bitten through their hydraulic steering hoses. Not sure if the shark was still on board but I bet the towboat man had a story to tell that evening.<br />
Since healthcare and ambulances are not free here, it would be interesting to know who foots the bill for the coast guard services. Should mariners carry their credit card when they abandon ship? Have asked locals, but no-one knows!<br />
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Thoughts on shopping in the US.<br />
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After the sparse and expensive pickings of the Bahamas, we were so looking forward to fresh food and proper supermarkets in the US. The first meal out for me was a salad - and it was heaven.<br />
In the UK we think we have lost the heart and soul of our towns and cities to out-of-town shops. Well - it's still all local compared to here. Here, you can find the odd gas station/convenience store selling 30 types of coffee, soda cans, the odd snack, terrible bread and fresh milk, but for more than that you have to jump on a bus (ha ha if there is one -likely not) or head out of town on the highway (forget cycle paths) for several miles to the malls. There you will find the giants of Walmart etc on the cheap land where they can display their huge range of goods. You are just very unusual if you don't have a car. Everything is geared to the car owner - including drive through ATMs, banks, pharmacy - actually not a bad idea at all, especially in the UK climate. In the towns such as Beaufort, Charlestown, Rockport the town centre is given over to supplying the tourists with boutique goods.<br />
So our provisioning has been done when people have given us lifts (rides) to the malls out of the kindness of their hearts. Many towns have a farmers market once a week, for a couple of hours, but just as in the UK, the prices reflect just how much hard labour goes into growing stuff out of sun, soil and water, without the subsidised mass production of the giant farms (Stu: plus chemical additives and of course the assistance of the ever pervasive Monsanto!! Check out their inventions including , Killer gene (seeds that grow sterile plants meaning you have to buy seeds for ever more-they are great to donate to 3rd world countries when crop failure causes famine), Agent Orange to mention a couple of their success stories.)<br />
We are still using our European supplies - from LIDL, Mercadona, Carrefour - and are glad for what we bought at those prices and pushed through the water with sails for 5000+ miles!<br />
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Everyone we have met (except for the grump in Plymouth) has been welcoming, polite, helpful, interested and interesting. And white. The demographics of the US overall are certainly not reflected on the east coast. Well, that is until you take the bus. Then it is rare to see a white face, unless they are disabled folk, or maybe an occasional student.<br />
A lot of towns don't have buses at all. So guess what - no coloured folk in evidence at all. It is really weird. Watching the Olympics on TV has made us realise how wonderfully diverse, integrated and enriched UK society is.<br />
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Portsmouth - Norfolk Stopover and the Sail-through marine store.<br />
36-48.79N 76-18.31W 24 July 2012<br />
Somewhere along the way, we found out about Active Captain, a kind of Tripadvisor for Boaters. It overlays points of interest on nautical charts and details many anchorages and free stops. This is fantastic because all pilot books for the US, and the Caribbean for that matter, are basically funded by the advertisements of the marinas and businesses – anchorages are barely mentioned and there are no little plans of how to enter harbours or bays – lots of chat about lobster meals instead. Rod Heikell – all is forgiven, please come and write pilot books over here. Marinas here are charging $80-120 per night so anchorages and free docks are very welcome.<br />
So, this is how we found out about High Street Landing in the heart of Portsmouth town, and right next to the ferry for Norfolk, Virginia and all its big town attractions. We were informed to ignore the 'No overnight Mooring' signs and to stay in the little basin for as long as we liked, so long as we were supporting local businesses. So we visited Bob's Mile Marker 0 Marine store – right on the landing and our first Sail-through marine store. Bob is the salt of the earth. He will find anything he can for you, drop you at the Walmart store, help sort out any problems you have. And he took us all to his house for a BBQ and to see his train set , well train room actually. What a guy! We're just bowled over by the hospitality here.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wv3r_RPHOAs/UGNrg8mrFyI/AAAAAAAACGU/elj_ZASDE3s/s1600/Portsmouth+VA+under+water.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="184" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wv3r_RPHOAs/UGNrg8mrFyI/AAAAAAAACGU/elj_ZASDE3s/s320/Portsmouth+VA+under+water.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The only drawback to the free dock- underwater at high tide.</td></tr>
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We had some parts of order with Bob, and while we waited for delivery we explored Norfolk and Portsmouth. This is the home of the US Navy and the Military Academy. We watched an Aircraft carrier pass our little harbour, and visited the Naval Museum and the USS Winsconsin, which saw action in the first Gulf War and the Pacific in WWII. It fired shells as heavy as a VW Beetle.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s_XAxkKofq4/UGNrUlWb5DI/AAAAAAAACDk/ngjjpF0JnO4/s1600/Aircraft+carrier+Norfolk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="160" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s_XAxkKofq4/UGNrUlWb5DI/AAAAAAAACDk/ngjjpF0JnO4/s320/Aircraft+carrier+Norfolk.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Its not everyday that an aircraft carrier goes past your mooring</td></tr>
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Visiting an exhibition of classic motor beach boats (think James Bond style) we were surprised by the signs at the entrance – no surprises for no ball games, no climbing on the boats etc etc – but the invitation 'If you feel like shagging, Just do it! ' was a bit of an eye popper for us.<br />
Lucky we thought twice about taking them up on it, as a shag is a beach dance over here. Just be warned of the dangers of thinking you speak the lingo.<br />
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Two free museums deserve a mention:<br />
First the Chrysler Glass Museum and workshop – a fabulous and generous collection of fine works collected by Mr Chrysler in his lifetime and a modern workshop where you can be fascinated by all types of glass-blowing and glass work in action, and then see the fine pieces in the museum too. Well worth a whole day out. My favourite piece is this chess set of Jews vs Catholics<br />
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Second, am I the only one who doesn't know my McArthur from McCarthy? It seems not. The place to find out is the McArthur Memorial museum for a full run-down of 20th Century history from the USA perspective. McArthur's impact on the Phillipines and Japanese history is remarkable, as he reshaped their post-war societies into modern democracies, proving that in some cases, meddling in the affairs of other countries can be very successful. He got the sack in the end, for his difference of opinion over Korea. The New World is proving to be just as interesting and cultural as the Old World of the Med was in other ways.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MacArthur not McCarthy</td></tr>
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Great Bridge, another great free dock<br />
36-41.41N 76-12.81W<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A very pleasant free dock</td></tr>
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A lovely little overnight dock at the end of the twiddly bits of the Intracoastal Waterway.<br />
It was the most convenient stop for shopping so far, just a short walk to a mall with supermarket, hairdresser, electronics and fabric shop and thrift shops – like our charity shops but supermarket sized, and now the only way we can afford new outfits! Perfect little yachtie stop. We had a slightly longer stay than we anticipated when the bridge failed to open, and once it was repaired it was too late in the day to do the next leg. Lucky no-one shooed us off, so we took the bus to Walmart for more retail therapy.<br />
Stu saw lots of snakes in the water, which along with the dark brown tannin stained water, put us off going in for a much needed cooling dip. It was continuing to be unbearably hot. Didn't know so much of the body is covered in sweat glands.<br />
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The IntraCoastal Waterway<br />
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Well part of it, from Oriental to Great Bridge, avoiding the perils of the seas around Cape Hatteras, the grave yard of many ships and where the bad weather always comes from on the forecasts.<br />
We spent several days following the magenta line on the charts that marks the inland waterway through North Carolina and into Virginia ( It goes all the way south to Miami too, which we hope to do later in the year). It travels across sounds, up the Alligator river and Pungo river, creeks and canals, providing an ever-changing vista of waterfront homes, trees, bird-life and beaches as well as the less glamorous industrial outskirts of towns. We found it a welcome change from the endless blue of the ocean.<br />
The channel is marked with red and green buoys, Americans have them the opposite way round to the rest of the world – we constantly chant the mantra 'red right returning' to keep us off the mud, but have to watch out for when it suddenly switches direction – as in the complicated twists and turns of the ICW, it all depends on what port you are returning to!<br />
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The ospreys find the channel markers very handy for building nests too. They can wait for several years get a place on the property ladder, to find a place to nest and raise a family, so no horizontal surface stays unoccupied for long.<br />
Concentrating on staying in the channel and out of the mud is quite tiring, and some days you have to do 60 miles between anchorage. Other times, you just decide on how many miles you want to travel for the day, and pick where to drop the hook for the night, pulling off the ICW into one of many delightful anchorages. It helps to have Yindee Plus in front, as they are very organised and work out the times to be at the opening bridges!<br />
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The waterway was built for commercial shipping, similar to the canal systems of Europe. It utilises rivers and lakes with a series of man-made links between them. It is suffering these days as the lack of commercial traffic allows silting to take place where previously the constant wash of barge tug propellers acted as a continuous dredging system. Now the tugs that still use the waterway, are augmented with dredgers, but the cost of dredgers puts the long term survival of these waterways in the balance. Recreational boating has it's modern part to play in the survival of this wonderful canal system. Still with a couple of exceptions we had no problems navigating these waterways and friends with 7' draft found the same. The tight spots are well documented on active captain and if you are wise you'll join up with Tow Boat U.S. As a precaution. It's more likely you will slump into a moment of relaxation than run out of water IN the channel but however it happens, it's nice to know there is a tow boat near you. Once a paid up member, it's absolutely free no matter how stupid, Sorry, unlucky, you can be.<br />
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Oriental and Small Town Americana<br />
35-01.38N 76-41.90W<br />
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The little town of Oriental saves its 4th July celebrations for its Croaker Fest the following weekend.<br />
We spent the weekend there with Yindee Plus, Alexina of Shoreham and Daydreamer. There were the delights of Miss Oriental beauty pageant, and the Miss Minnow contest for aspiring 4 year old beauty queens (favourite colour unanimously pink) and the hotly contested Baking Contest.<br />
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We enjoyed some local music of various bands, and absorbed the cultural charms of small-town life. We particularly enjoyed the parade where any form of conveyance was proudly exhibited, including the entire regional Fire Brigade with their new and vintage appliances on display. (Don't catch anything on fire on this day) I particularly liked the Chilly bin (cool boxes) that had been converted to electric-powered three-wheeled speed machines and the tractor steered by an excited wife so keen to wave and grin at her friends she nearly ran over several of them. If it hadn't been for the last minute panicked grabbing and violent swinging of the steering wheel of her ever-smiling forgiving husband it may have been a sorry tale.<br />
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Beaufort to Oriental and back again and again.<br />
34-42.3N 76-41.3W<br />
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Our arrival in Beaufort was not the perfect text book approach. We never aim to arrive in a new port in the dark of night, especially with no moon. So arriving in the early hours with a following breaking sea down a confusing channel with no moon was, to say the least, nerve racking. Once anchored opposite the coast guard station in the outer bay and a stiff drink later we retired to sleep off the 36hour passage. We were awoken in the early morning with the passage of the shrimp boats followed by the sports fishers followed by the weekend beach and speedboat lovers. Rock and roll is not dead in Beaufort. Once we had gathered our bearings we nipped up to the “No Wake Zone” an area we have learned to seek out, as it is generally adhered to. Outside of that its a free for all, including a great deal of the ICW, despite the damage done by large wakes along the edges of rivers and waterways.<br />
We anchored off the town right on the waterfront. Anchoring space is a little tight in peak season, and due to the wind conditions we blocked most of the channel, however the commercial traffic passed unperturbed and waved and smiled. Anywhere else we have been in Europe we would have been severely intimidated until we moved, but not here. It all seems to be about sharing the space, and all's OK, even when groups of people swam across and down the channel, ferries and fishermen alike would move around to accommodate.<br />
We were to learn that is just the way they are down here. Y'all have a good time, and come back real soon y' hear!<br />
It was shrimp (Prawn) season so that's what you eat whenever you can and it is the freshest and best you can imagine. Shrimp burgers, fried shrimp, shrimp with wassabbi, Love It.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beaufort waterways</td></tr>
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So, you can't travel nearly 10,000 miles in 14 months and expect nothing to go wrong, can you? Our antifouling bottom paint was failing and couldn't cope with the warm waters. We were scrubbing the entire boat before any long passage only to be fouled within a week. Here in the waterways it's not one of our options to scrub. The water is dark brown with tannin from the trees and the silt from the inner plains and swamps. These waters have sharks and snakes that you can't see. It's not swimming territory for us. Back in Barbuda we had met a lovely couple on a boat who gave us their card and bravely said come see us if you come to Beaufort. They happen to be heavily connected to the Jarrett boat yard in Beaufort. So that's where we lifted out to repaint the bottom.<br />
Mike and Connie looked after us so well, both at their house and with daily supplies of ice and vegetables from their garden. What lovely folk!<br />
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I can recommend the yard for anybody wanting to crack on and get work done. There are no distractions other than a few people who live onsite for a BBQ in the evening but everything you could need as far as expertise and services can be found here. When you build sports boats that cost $1000 per hour to run, then everything is 'yes sir, of course I'll help you'. Turns out that it's not the money talking, it's just the way they are. The yard was clean so were the showers etc but if you want night life and a bar, oops. We focused and in a week we had the topsides and bottom sides all to perfection just before the 4th July long weekend. We launched ASAP and zipped up to Beaufort for 4th July celebrations. Distant fireworks but free music every night in the water side bars. Then, we did 20 miles up to Oriental to catch up with Yindee Plus and others at the Croaker Fest. Then back to Jarrett Bay boatworks to collect the last of our mail from the UK after the long weekend. We waved goodbye to Jarrett Bay friends, and set off again to Beaufort planning to give moral support to friends with engine and electrical problems. We didn't make it 30 minutes out of Jarrett Bay before we joined the Gremlin club. I'm not saying you can catch gremlins but they are really keen to jump ship to ship. With a great deal of smoke and some awful noise we ground to an engine-less stop. Main engine circulation pump bearings seized and contorted. Steaming hot coolant hissing from the pump, and smoke from the disintegrated fan belt erupting from the engine bay. Bloody Gremlins, was muttered. A handy towboat nearby, seeing the smoke, stopped and asked if we needed assistance. Despite being a different operator and a competitor of our chosen Towboat US outfit he was all smiles and called our guys who arrived in 20 mins. That's the equivalent to the RAC calling the AA to ensure you're not stranded. Respect!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We asked if he would tow us all the way to Maine, <br />
but he said we didn't have enough beer on board!</td></tr>
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Within an hour we were back in Jarrett bay yet again. The tow would have cost in the region of $300 so our $150 joining fee is redeemed. A new waterpump was delivered for our 33 year old engine in 2 days courtesy of Detroit Diesel and Mercedes, and we were free to move on again. Just a series of 2 more smoking and disintegrating burnt out fan belts, and we would be back to our usual reliable old Mercedes. Well done old girl!!<br />
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Checking in at Charleston, South Carolina. 21 June 2012.<br />
32-46.5N 79-57.3W<br />
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Funny weather continued to plague us in the Bahamas and a short weather window appeared for a quick passage to the US coast. We left on a Sunday without checking out (you can post the forms back to them, once in the US) and set out to find the magic carpet of the Gulf Stream, which we all know carries warm water north up the US coast and then across the Atlantic to bathe Britain in balmy waters, so we can grow palm trees on the west coast.<br />
Well it turns out it is only a piddly little trickle in these parts, and we found only a frustrating counter-current for most of the 75 hour, 450 miles passage to Charleston. (Next time we'll head west towards Palm Beach, get into the piddle and stay in it going all the way north, but really powerful thunderstorms travelling north with the warm stream prevented us from doing that this time)<br />
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Anyway, we arrived at Charleston, South Carolina at 7pm. Before we could settle down to anchor we were directed to the City Marina dock to be met by Customs and Border Protection. Several friends had checked in further north at Beaufort, and had their lockers and fridges inspected, and non-US meat products and milk confiscated, and even had to boil their fresh eggs, while CBP stood and watched over them.<br />
Several of us checked in at Charleston that day, and none of us were inspected. I had made my basil plant into pesto, expecting it to be removed, but it was butchered in vain. We were stamped in with big smiles all round and welcomed to the US of A. We already had a cruising permit from Puerto Rico waters (see other blog entry). Those who did not, simply had to visit the Customs office in town the next day to get theirs. No sweat.<br />
It is totally up to the CBP officer of the day as to whether to admit you or not, and how long to allow you to stay, so we breathed a big sigh of relief and set about exploring the pretty historic town.<br />
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We also had to find phones, internet connections, propane gas and all sorts of other boring stuff that is always necessary on entry to a new country.<br />
The biggest surprise is that there are no real shops in the town, so several hot and sweaty bus trips were made miles out to Walmart, Radio Shack, Best Buy and many others, in search of the elusive perfect phone/internet solution. Surely in the great big successful technologically superior USA that couldn't be that hard, could it? Well, think ourselves lucky in the UK that the EU has kept our markets open and competitive. Not so here, the big corporates rule, and even though you think you have consumer choice, your needs are meaningless if they aren't going to make heaps of money from you. All phones are locked to the supplier. Some are not even GSM (Verizon do not have SIM cards). Without a Social Security number and a ZIPcode you cannot get a contract even if you want one. Data bundles are stingy and expensive, compared to Europe.<br />
We couldn't utilise any of our existing dongles or smartphone or Nokia. We had to purchase a MIFI thing ($120) and a monthly top up of $35 just for internet access. We decided not to buy a 'drug phone', (so called as the drug dealers use these no contract, anonymous off-the-shelf phones) as the rates are not much better than our international phone. For the first time we are in a country where you have to pay to receive any call !!!! Unbelievable.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Learning to cross the road in a new country!</td></tr>
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Well, consumerism aside, the country and people are warm and welcoming and we spent a very pleasant week waiting for our next weather slot to head north out of hurricane territory (or so we thought!), to achieve the Holy Grail of 35degrees north. We were all set to enjoy 6 months of pottering peacefully around until the hurricanes were all over. How little did we realise we would be going nearly all the way to Canada!!<br />
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Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-43819716610284959812012-06-14T00:38:00.000+03:002012-12-30T00:45:08.182+02:00The Caribbean island cruise continues. <span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">In
our previous lives we would have thought ourselves very fortunate to
go on holiday once in our lives for a couple of weeks to a Caribbean
island. This year we have spent 3 weeks in Bar</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">bados, 2 weeks in St
Lucia, 1 week in the Grenadines, 2 weeks in Martinique, 2 weeks in
Martinique, and 2 weeks in Antigua and Barbuda. Our carbon footprint
to travel to these destinations has been very small indeed, and our
cost of living here is miniscule compared to hotel stayers. </span></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">We have not been robbed, mugged or been pestered by boat boys, so it's
been a brilliant year so far and is not over yet. In the Med you have
to pull into harbour for the winters so you lose 4-6 months of the
cruising year. Up here we can just keep moving, as long as we leave
the Caribbean for hurricane season. No rest for the wicked!!</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ys7fzzzaPTM/UM0CVQ_HBbI/AAAAAAAACb8/YN10hYj7QIw/s1600/St+martin.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="172" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ys7fzzzaPTM/UM0CVQ_HBbI/AAAAAAAACb8/YN10hYj7QIw/s320/St+martin.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>St
Martin/St Maarten</strong></span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">17
Apr 2012 18 02.7N 063 05.7W</span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Anchored
on French side, inside Simpson Bay Lagoon. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">St
Martin is the smallest island in the world to be divided between 2
countries. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">We
entered on the Dutch side, under the Dutch bridge into the lagoon,
but then motored straight across the charted border line to anchor on
the French side, under the charmingly named Witch's Tit. Here it is
free to anchor and to check in, over there it is not free. View is
pretty much the same. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">The
island is a weird hybrid. Plenty of lost souls go aground here, or
run small businesses serving the needs of cruisers and paying no tax.
Health care is free here too, as the north side is part of the France
and therefore the EU. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">We
spent too much time here, doing the rounds of the 3 huge chandleries,
buying cheap food on the French side, and cheap alcohol on the Dutch
duty free side. The french supermarkets were a good place to stock up
with dried fruit, nuts, toiletries, cheese, pasta – enough to last
until the USA. A weekly flea market was an ideal place to pick up
charts of the US and Bahamas.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">There
are no physical borders between the 2 sides of the island. Buses run
right around the island. It really is most bizarre. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">We
bought antifouling here (ABC, used by the US Navy, 4 gallons for
US$680). You can buy stuff here that is banned everywhere else. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">St
Martin has a great music scene, lots of local live music, and Stu did
a couple of open mike nights, and even bought a microphone for his
guitar so he can be amped up. Too many happy hour bars for your
health though. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">We
picked up a second hand 8HP outboard. Stu seems to be having a
mid-life crisis about the need for speed in our little dinghy. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>Antigua
Classic Week.</strong></span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">20
April 2012</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G1vLwqvFmWs/UMfzKIOWC_I/AAAAAAAACYE/UIAaJhmF9qU/s1600/SG108790screensaver.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G1vLwqvFmWs/UMfzKIOWC_I/AAAAAAAACYE/UIAaJhmF9qU/s320/SG108790screensaver.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lwmsDKv86Lw/UMfykrcAxuI/AAAAAAAACXs/X2MkHDQnvMc/s1600/firefly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="151" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lwmsDKv86Lw/UMfykrcAxuI/AAAAAAAACXs/X2MkHDQnvMc/s320/firefly.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ag1DnPMEFdw/UMfynjoBOWI/AAAAAAAACX8/r4AYblUUs-4/s1600/Paradeofsail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="142" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ag1DnPMEFdw/UMfynjoBOWI/AAAAAAAACX8/r4AYblUUs-4/s320/Paradeofsail.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gp1DebMLx7k/UMfylsfibnI/AAAAAAAACX0/dHZ6zVkuQU0/s1600/Old+and+new.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="199" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gp1DebMLx7k/UMfylsfibnI/AAAAAAAACX0/dHZ6zVkuQU0/s320/Old+and+new.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P_qa0Ansz_M/UMfyiOGKP6I/AAAAAAAACXk/2YmQex9ymL0/s1600/Headland.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="174" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P_qa0Ansz_M/UMfyiOGKP6I/AAAAAAAACXk/2YmQex9ymL0/s320/Headland.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--C8-HxqEZDE/UMfygrnz2NI/AAAAAAAACXM/CJD-N11C6YI/s1600/Classic1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="140" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--C8-HxqEZDE/UMfygrnz2NI/AAAAAAAACXM/CJD-N11C6YI/s320/Classic1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HkyMQQ1sfKw/UMfyhFNlErI/AAAAAAAACXY/gR5nsew9doQ/s1600/3schooners.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="156" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HkyMQQ1sfKw/UMfyhFNlErI/AAAAAAAACXY/gR5nsew9doQ/s320/3schooners.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3QMtS_18dY8/UMfyhCrBnLI/AAAAAAAACXU/rEfBKHmx4tM/s1600/2yachts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="219" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3QMtS_18dY8/UMfyhCrBnLI/AAAAAAAACXU/rEfBKHmx4tM/s320/2yachts.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Having
blown out an opportunity to crew aboard Storm Vogel, as we couldn't
see a weather window to get back to Antigua, suddenly one opened up
and we were able to sail back 'uphill' 120 miles to arrive the day
before the racing. Unfortunately Ian, the skipper, had filled all his
places mostly with young talent and totty, so we were relegated to
observing and photographing the race fleet. This was a big
disappointment but way less tiring. We watched our friend Phil (Miss
Molly) exhaust himself on the mainsheet position all week, and we
loitered and enjoyed the free entertainment and hospitality of
Antigua week, and drooled all over the lovingly varnished yachts. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia;"></span> </div>
<strong>
</strong><div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>British
Virgin Islands.</strong> </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">25
April 2012</span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">The
morning SSB radio net was still going strong but we felt like
stragglers as most of the other boats were well 'ahead' of us. We had
a lovely 'downhill' sail, and I tied Stu to the mast to avoid the
temptation of stopping at St Martin again, in case we never left. </span>
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">LAT
18d 29.4N LONG 064d 22.8W</span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">We
went all the way to Virgin Gorda and checked in at Gun Creek, a new
check-in post – we were back on British soil again!<br />The BVI's
are a very popular charter base and with good reason, lots of lovely
bays, short sails between stops, cheap rum and endless sunshine. But,
other than inflated food prices, the downside is that many bays are
full of mooring buoys which pleases charterers on holiwols, but not
cruisers on a a budget. It is possible to anchor at the edges of the
mooring fields, but it obviously reduces your choice of good holding,
good shelter and reasonable depth of water. Still we could enjoy 10
days in the BVIS for about £2000 less than the charterers and a
minimal carbon footprint too – very little fossil fuel suffered for
us to get here!</span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<strong>
</strong><div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>Jost
Van Dyke Island, Great Harbour</strong></span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Tempted
by the famous watering hole of Foxy's, which everyone seemed to know
about, we ventured ashore and had a very overpriced and over-rated
meal and a few rum punches, with Clare and Mike from Siga Siga. One
time spit and sawdust beach-sailors bar now turned tourist
attraction. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">On
Siga's advice we went over to: </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>Cane
Garden Bay</strong> </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Tortola, 27 April</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SYqc08GHOio/UMfw1vYEt1I/AAAAAAAACUE/zD4CoC6Tqqk/s1600/CGB+Tortola.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="154" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SYqc08GHOio/UMfw1vYEt1I/AAAAAAAACUE/zD4CoC6Tqqk/s320/CGB+Tortola.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yJZKwOmEKGE/UMfxAL91lII/AAAAAAAACUc/E8YaFu0EBSY/s1600/CGB+anchorage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yJZKwOmEKGE/UMfxAL91lII/AAAAAAAACUc/E8YaFu0EBSY/s320/CGB+anchorage.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">This
anchorage ticks all the boxes, not too deep, not too many moorings,
pretty good shelter, fantastic wildlife, clear water, excellent
snorkelling nearby, rum factory ashore and low-key bars with locals
and live music. Does it get any better than this? We chilled out and
watched the pelicans diving for their dinner, until Clare decided we
should walk to the bay next door, where there is even better
snorkelling. It did look like a big hill from the anchorage, but
appearances didn't quite prepare us for the gradient or the length.
Luckily we were quickly offered a lift in the back of someone's
truck, which we gratefully accepted, and snuggled up to the greasy
spare wheel. As we got higher and higher, we wondered if we would
ever make the journey back without a similar friendly local to
assist. Well, we had an excellent swim and we just about made it up
the hill to get home, with plenty of puff stops to admire the views. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XRgtABiASg4/UMfwmD7pnSI/AAAAAAAACTA/omrYnZQtunU/s1600/BVI+Tortola+CGB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XRgtABiASg4/UMfwmD7pnSI/AAAAAAAACTA/omrYnZQtunU/s320/BVI+Tortola+CGB.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-reaPjcgt9Ck/UM0KTSxJkTI/AAAAAAAACcY/iOKw6wq5y3o/s1600/Pelican+Dive.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="174" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-reaPjcgt9Ck/UM0KTSxJkTI/AAAAAAAACcY/iOKw6wq5y3o/s320/Pelican+Dive.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iyARjzWDyyo/UMfxVY10qiI/AAAAAAAACVk/zELCZ6NtB9w/s1600/Pelican+CGB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="164" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iyARjzWDyyo/UMfxVY10qiI/AAAAAAAACVk/zELCZ6NtB9w/s320/Pelican+CGB.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">We
had a little lunch excursion to nearby Sandy Cay, just a few miles
out of Tortola, with a wet and bouncy dinghy landing and a walk
around the nature path on the tiny paradise island. </span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--pl9MgYaiIY/UMfxPFkcQfI/AAAAAAAACVI/E9y8a0ipus4/s1600/Lunch+stop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--pl9MgYaiIY/UMfxPFkcQfI/AAAAAAAACVI/E9y8a0ipus4/s320/Lunch+stop.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">All
too soon, it was time to move on, and we waved Siga Siga off as they
were headed south to Grenada for hurricane season. We went back to
Jost Van Dyke to check out at Great Harbour, and took advantage of
sundowners at the Soggy Dollar Bar in White Bay, another beach bar
making too much of it's reputation, but with very acceptable views. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DwqP06jXt9c/UMfxpVctHOI/AAAAAAAACWs/rTfjRbU_YfY/s1600/Soggy+Dollar+Bar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DwqP06jXt9c/UMfxpVctHOI/AAAAAAAACWs/rTfjRbU_YfY/s320/Soggy+Dollar+Bar.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>The
other Virgin Islands and visa issues.</strong> </span>
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">There
are 3 groups of islands, British, US and Spanish. The USVI's are full
of Americans on cruise ship and cheap rum-fuelled holiday-makers
-like Benidorm with snorkelling. You do need a US visa to go there by
boat (we had ours from NZ already) and don't even think of landing
there by boat if you haven't got one – you will be fined big-time. The only
way around this ( at this moment in time) is to leave the boat in the
BVI's and go by ferry to the USVI's and you can get a 90 day multiple
entry visa, then go back and get your boat. Whether this works or
not, is down to the officer of the day, so best to get a proper 10 yr
visa at an American embassy beforehand. </span>
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">We
decided that we would have enough American culture this coming
summer, so we bypassed the US islands and went to Culebra, a part of
Puerto Rico or the Spanish Virgin Islands. Well, you have to forgive
our ignorance, but we were about to discover that the only thing
Spanish about these islands is the language they speak. They have
been owned by the USA since the Spanish-American war of 1898, they
are all bilingual and USA citizens, though not a state so they cannot
vote. The same visa issues apply here, as to the USVI's and the USA.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<strong><span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Ensenada
Honda, Culebra, Puerto Rico. </span>
</strong></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">3
May 2012 </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QIi14i0ASi8/UM0CT1rXZCI/AAAAAAAACbk/KMfjnh4R64c/s1600/Culebra.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="204" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QIi14i0ASi8/UM0CT1rXZCI/AAAAAAAACbk/KMfjnh4R64c/s320/Culebra.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">We
anchored in Culebra and prepared to go ashore for the first time in
US waters, with our new shiny American visas in our passports. The
first challenge, is that the <b>very first thing</b> you must do is
phone Customs and Border Protection (CBP)on a toll-free number posted
on the public dock to tell them you have arrived. We phoned
beforehand from the BVI's but they DO NOT WANT TO know about you
until you arrive. This is all very well, but we don't have an
American phone, most European phones don't work on their network and
there are no public phone boxes. We'd had a heads-up about this from
the SSB net, so we went to the infamous Dinghy Dock bar and asked
very nicely if we could borrow their phone while we had a drink (well
it is a toll-free number). It takes a while, as they want to know all
sorts of things about you, just short of your inside leg measurement.
They will tell you what to do next, likely to be that you should go
to the airport in the morning to complete check-in formalities, with
boat papers in hand. </span>
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">So
next morning, off we went on the 20 minute walk to the airstrip. The
CBP officers were exceptionally polite and helpful with the form
filling. We were told to list our ships stores – which could have
taken us all day. We asked what they really wanted to know about –
mangos from the USVIs and tobacco, were their biggest cause for
concern. So our list started NO TOBACCO and NO MANGOS, and then a
brief list of stuff like eggs, cheese, salami, fresh meat, and
spirits, wine and beer. They were very happy with this, and we were
ecstatic that no-one was going to come to our boat and search it,
confiscating all our french cheese. </span>
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">It
costs $19 for a Cruising Permit for one year to cruise the USA (even
if you leave, go to the Bahamas, and enter again) and means that you
should not have to clear customs in each port or pay entrance fees
anywhere else – however, you are obliged to phone CBP whenever you
move within the US, usually state to state, but from anchorage to
anchorage in the north, which is a real pain. </span>
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Bizarrely
it costs more ($36)to get a permit if you come from USVI's. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">You
do get a white card (I-94)with your B2 visa in your passport while in
Puerto Rico/Culebra, and have to surrender this when you check out
for the Bahamas – you get another one on entrance to the USA again.
It's worth doing this, so that your 6 month stay in the USA starts
from later in the year. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fjnrIKNonyc/UM0MP_UPSvI/AAAAAAAACcs/kZomc2sqbVc/s1600/Culebra+night.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="230" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fjnrIKNonyc/UM0MP_UPSvI/AAAAAAAACcs/kZomc2sqbVc/s320/Culebra+night.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">We
passed a very pleasant week in Culebra, joining the local hippies
that have drifted there and stayed. It hosts an odd bunch of mad
dropouts, but is a delightful little island with world-class
snorkelling in crystal water. We braved the heat and cycled the whole
island to explore the other snorkel sites.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">We
would have liked to have spent more time in Culebrita and the main island of Puerto
Rico, but were running out of time as ever, and so we checked out and
set off to the Bahamas. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>Note
on Turks and Caicos Islands.</strong> </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">As
of this year, it costs $50US to check in, $50 check out, for up to one
week. If you stay more than one week, it costs $300. This is the same
price to cruise the whole of the Bahamas for a year, which has a lot
more islands, so many thrifty cruisers voted with their keels this
year and bypassed the Turks and Caicos - we didn't have time to do
them justice at any rate. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>Bahamas</strong></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pf0a9TUc0_8/UM0CT1u5BnI/AAAAAAAACbo/bHDXyIEGako/s1600/Bahamas+blue.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="247" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pf0a9TUc0_8/UM0CT1u5BnI/AAAAAAAACbo/bHDXyIEGako/s400/Bahamas+blue.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">This
was the last down-tradewind trip for us this year, taking just over 4
days and 500 miles from Culebra. The Bahamas mark the transition from
tropics to northern latitute sailing. We aimed for the most upwind
island with check in facilities, dropping behind the reef of
Mayaguana to anchor. </span>
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>Mayaguana</strong>
13 May 2012</span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Anchored
Abrahams Bay 22 21N 072 59W</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tZKW6kReZkg/UM0CTzmSy2I/AAAAAAAACbs/ug4GmX-w7n0/s1600/Abraham+bay+reef.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="204" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tZKW6kReZkg/UM0CTzmSy2I/AAAAAAAACbs/ug4GmX-w7n0/s320/Abraham+bay+reef.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uUyrSuA2nTI/UMfxR0ydCUI/AAAAAAAACVc/n8Ox9YhspNA/s1600/Mayaguana.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uUyrSuA2nTI/UMfxR0ydCUI/AAAAAAAACVc/n8Ox9YhspNA/s400/Mayaguana.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">It
takes a lot of getting used to, much of the Bahamas is little more
than 3-4m deep, so the bottom is very close to the bottom of the
boat, and there are lots of poorly charted coral heads that grow up
like stalacmites – with sharp pointy bits best avoided by boat
bottoms. You can see the shallow water from afar on Google maps. It makes a real purty colour.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Bahamas
navigation involves one of us standing out on the bow, looking ahead
to ensure we don't stray into sharp or shallow bits – its a bit hot
out there in the sun too. You are supposed to travel with the sun
overhead so that you can see down into the water without reflections,
so ideally you need to be in, with your anchor down by 4pm each day.
This is much easier said than done, if you need to cover a number of miles in a day between safe stops.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">At
Mayaguana the sun beat down on us as we arrived and we could easily
get our eye in to spot the coral heads, so we threaded our way in.
The only protection from the sea is behind the shallow reef, which is
not so shallow at high water, so conditions can change throughout the
day with the height of tide. At high water with the wind from the
south you are anchored at sea, in shallow rolling waves!</span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">It
took us two attempts to visit the customs office, as their hours are
erratic to say the least. The hardest bit is handing over the US$310 –
the paperwork was very straightforward, and even included a fishing
license automatically. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3NdFHlxEn0M/UMfxjObDqsI/AAAAAAAACWI/dRKB4jUpzl4/s1600/Mayaguana+beach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="232" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3NdFHlxEn0M/UMfxjObDqsI/AAAAAAAACWI/dRKB4jUpzl4/s320/Mayaguana+beach.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Mayaguana
is a one horse town, but a useful port of entry.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<strong>
</strong><div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>Conception
Island.</strong> </span>
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Anchored
23 51N 075 07W</span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Absloutely
georgeous place, with a good anchorage, sandy beach. It is a national
park so nothing ashore. Had a fun day kayaking up the river with
Yindee Plus in their dinghy.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-REkFFulEmgc/UMfwodJcpAI/AAAAAAAACTQ/UlOt1Wns8Ik/s1600/Bahamas+kayaking2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-REkFFulEmgc/UMfwodJcpAI/AAAAAAAACTQ/UlOt1Wns8Ik/s320/Bahamas+kayaking2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZoONoWnYMgM/UMfxqXMZiPI/AAAAAAAACW8/MHH-rdh4tXQ/s1600/shark.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="205" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZoONoWnYMgM/UMfxqXMZiPI/AAAAAAAACW8/MHH-rdh4tXQ/s320/shark.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shark - only a baby</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oJmseVVLebM/UMfxrZE0CPI/AAAAAAAACXE/SvxN-6n82So/s1600/water+colours.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="220" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oJmseVVLebM/UMfxrZE0CPI/AAAAAAAACXE/SvxN-6n82So/s320/water+colours.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">mangroves</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">We
saw a beautiful 55' yacht being salvagedoff the north of the island.
The owners had set a waypoint into their chartplotter a few hundred
meters off a reef – then trusted it instead of his eyes. They went
straight up on the reef and holed the boat. The salvagers did all
they could to refloat it, but the pumps were not coping. If they let
it sink on the reef there is a humungous fine to pay, for polluting
the national park, so the boat was towed out to deep water and
allowed to sink. We were weeping at the waste of all that gear on the
boat, now at the bottom of the sea – thousands of pounds worth of
winches, rigging, hardware. We wished we'd had half an hour on that
boat with a couple of screwdrivers.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia;"></span> </div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<strong>
</strong><div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>Georgetown,
Exumas</strong></span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">This
is the main town of the chain of islands called the Exumas. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">23
31N 075 44.57W</span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">On
the way in we discovered how inaccurate most charts are for the
Bahamas. Not much of the $300 check-in fee goes towards naviagation
aids, and those that exist are weird and wonderful shapes and
colours. Everything is low lying and there are few transit markers so
navigation is tricky. We were plagued by overcast weather the whole
time we were in the Bahamas. Even on the bow of the boat with
polarised sunglasses and crystal clear water, it is impossible to
tell 1m from 10m of water. We gently nudged a rock off the entrance
to Georgetown, no harm done, but it made us nervous at all times. </span>
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">(For
going back to the Bahamas we have acquired Explorer charts, NV charts
are also good)</span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Georgetown
was a good stop for laundry, diesel and a supermarket. Whilst cheaper
than the outer islands, it is a lot more expensive than other places
so far. I found some bargain artesan parmesan for $3 a wedge. I think
it was supposed to be $30, and mispriced, so I snaffled a bunch of
them. Less of a bargain was a case of 24 cans of beer -$65 US. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">All
stocked up we continued on up the island chain.</span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>Normans
Pond Cay</strong></span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Never
again will I anchor somewhere with 'pond' in the name. Think hot, low
lying, mosquito and noseeum infested swamp. Our mosquito nets were no
match for these guys and we spent an extremely uncomfortable night
scratching and swatting. In the morning the bed was covered in tiny
dead bodies. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia;">
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia;"><div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>Big
Majors Spot/Staniel Cay</strong></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Anchored
24 10.6N 076 26.7W</span><br />
<br />
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">This
is a really popular spot for a big bunch of cruisers, and we came
here to shelter from a pretty nasty blow going through. </span>
</div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">The
little town used to have a pig problem. The pigs made the town smelly
and attracted flies. So someone suggested they deport the pigs to
their own desert island where they could smell as much as they like.
The pigs flourished, the cruisers feed the pigs their organic
rubbish, and the pigs entertain the cruisers. Rubbish, pig, smell,
and fly problem solved – since the pigs are so keen on cruiser
rubbish they swim out to you as you approach, so they are regularly
bathed too. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3_yZpiFeIZ4/UMfwlXN1fII/AAAAAAAACS4/3amtOdZ-_as/s1600/Babe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="261" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3_yZpiFeIZ4/UMfwlXN1fII/AAAAAAAACS4/3amtOdZ-_as/s320/Babe.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dSvzh5O91wo/UMfw_FRlsZI/AAAAAAAACUU/LP7JfrnMW_Y/s1600/FEED+ME.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dSvzh5O91wo/UMfw_FRlsZI/AAAAAAAACUU/LP7JfrnMW_Y/s320/FEED+ME.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-77vPiuf8pQQ/UMfxeu1gFkI/AAAAAAAACWA/b56UP4PQsZY/s1600/Pigs+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-77vPiuf8pQQ/UMfxeu1gFkI/AAAAAAAACWA/b56UP4PQsZY/s320/Pigs+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8gbVtX8ssK0/UMfxbbH6t-I/AAAAAAAACV4/LHScVE_d6IA/s1600/Pigs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="147" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8gbVtX8ssK0/UMfxbbH6t-I/AAAAAAAACV4/LHScVE_d6IA/s320/Pigs.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">A
beach party, BBQ, pot luck was arranged for one evening, a
bring-your-own beer, food to share, firewood, and an instrument if
you have one.
</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Some
pigs came too, they were not on the menu .</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8gr8DlMcYTU/UMfxneKHQLI/AAAAAAAACWY/12kZYtnalE0/s1600/Sraniel+Cay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8gr8DlMcYTU/UMfxneKHQLI/AAAAAAAACWY/12kZYtnalE0/s320/Sraniel+Cay.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6tXgZ637b0g/UMfxpUac2UI/AAAAAAAACWw/6DnTd-rnCyQ/s1600/firewood.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="161" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6tXgZ637b0g/UMfxpUac2UI/AAAAAAAACWw/6DnTd-rnCyQ/s320/firewood.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arriving with firewood</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Cruisers make their own fun...there was not a green
vegetable on show in the pot luck though, fresh provisions are few
and far between and cruisers closely guarded their last few green
things.</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
In the local shops here for 2</div>
</span><div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">pints milk, 1 loaf of horrible sliced bread and 12 eggs - $15 US ! Come prepared with bilges bulging.</span></div>
<br />
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Swimming
and snorkelling opportunities were all around. Nearby was Thunderball
grotto – used in and named after the James Bond film. </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">You
dive down into a cave filled with over-friendly fishes. There are
very strong currents so you have to swim at slack water, or risk
ending up out at sea without a paddle.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vcCgViQblng/UMfxj93WfDI/AAAAAAAACWM/8p2Spthx1Vc/s1600/Ray.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vcCgViQblng/UMfxj93WfDI/AAAAAAAACWM/8p2Spthx1Vc/s320/Ray.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="CENTER" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><i>Can
you spot Ray the ray?</i></span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Rays
and nurse sharks swim all around the boat, and are unfazed by
swimming humans. </span><br />
<br />
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>Warderick
Wells Cay, Exumas.</strong></span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Another
national park. We took a mooring for $20/night. It is possible to
anchor about 1 mile away and dinghy in, but the weather was
uninspiring, so we splashed out for a change. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">The
island is very natural and has some walking trails and caves to
explore. In the water there are coral gardens for snorkelling. We are
cursing Olympus and the not so waterproof camera – it would be
great to have some underwater shots. </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RBW5XKxrIHQ/UMfxKmAm1wI/AAAAAAAACUs/AqpYl3Aq7SA/s1600/Caves.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RBW5XKxrIHQ/UMfxKmAm1wI/AAAAAAAACUs/AqpYl3Aq7SA/s320/Caves.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kids and caves<br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dRn_zFH5uMo/UMfxoXU9yLI/AAAAAAAACWg/sRKNJOodsyk/s1600/Warderick+Wells+beach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="146" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dRn_zFH5uMo/UMfxoXU9yLI/AAAAAAAACWg/sRKNJOodsyk/s320/Warderick+Wells+beach.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">walking trails</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">I
swam against the strong currents to stay in one place and watched an
enormous lobster go visiting his friends cave to cave. Neither he nor
his friends would survive outside the park for long. The park is a no
take zone, so the wildlife is special and big. At one point a 10'
shark swam right underneath me. Despite having been told numerous
times that they are harmless, I shot 6' out of the water and screamed
SHARK. So did the big fearless guys next to me. Warderick Wells
sports one of the most beautiful beaches we have seen so far.
Incredible turquoise bath water. </span>
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xO17_o0rfJ8/UMfwzMoALTI/AAAAAAAACT4/N47XbARAjts/s1600/Bath+times.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xO17_o0rfJ8/UMfwzMoALTI/AAAAAAAACT4/N47XbARAjts/s320/Bath+times.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bathtime</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>Highborne
Cay</strong></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">24
42N 76 49.8W </span><br />
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">More
motoring between the islands. Having to move 30 – 40 miles in a
day, and to arrive while the sun is still high, means that the engine
gets used a lot more than we would like. </span>
</div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">More
very impressive snorkelling, crystal clear water and lots of fishes.
We took it in turns to stay in the dinghy while the other swam, so
that the currents couldn't take us too far away from our transport.
When you are swimming on your own, you often turn around to see a
malevolent looking barracuda stalking you. </span><br />
Can't anyone make an underwater camera that doesn't leak?</span><br /></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br />
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>Nassau</strong></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">A
friends mooring. 25 04.5N 077 18.7W </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">We
never intended to visit Nassau as it is a pit compared to the rest of
the Bahamas – and it is where the cruise ships come to. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">But
it was a good opportunity to at last catch up with our radio net
cruiser friends – we are always bringing up the rear – and give
moral support to Pete and Kourtney on Norna. They were having
horrible problems with their diesel engine, only 100 miles from the
end of their 3 year cruise and their home port. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">We
had a great time with Yindee Plus, Innamorata, Norna, Tactical
Directions and some new shorebased friends, Ken and Sheila, ex
cruisers who have gone aground in Nassau. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">We
took on more fuel here, what gas guzzlers we are. $5.40/gallon.
89P/litre</span><br />
<br />
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>Green
Bay/Rose Island</strong> 4June 2012</span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">anchored
25 06.1N 77 11.W </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">After
sitting out another batch of bad weather, we headed to Kens favourite
weekend beach – Green Bay, bit of a misnomer, it is anything but
green and no roses on Rose Island. We had a great musical evening
aboard Tony's catamaran Tactical Directions, the perfect venue for
deck lounging of an evening. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vIPAi5s7OQg/UMfw1BZWceI/AAAAAAAACUA/tEge-SAq7Sg/s1600/Bahamasbeach+walk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vIPAi5s7OQg/UMfw1BZWceI/AAAAAAAACUA/tEge-SAq7Sg/s320/Bahamasbeach+walk.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EIAKRS_FTyE/UMfwvR2-EEI/AAAAAAAACTg/hgeHm2LZjCE/s1600/Bahamas+music+Tactical.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EIAKRS_FTyE/UMfwvR2-EEI/AAAAAAAACTg/hgeHm2LZjCE/s320/Bahamas+music+Tactical.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6Y4mkZ6YV0E/UMfwwjIajOI/AAAAAAAACTs/d7WxgJ2teI8/s1600/Bahamas+party2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6Y4mkZ6YV0E/UMfwwjIajOI/AAAAAAAACTs/d7WxgJ2teI8/s320/Bahamas+party2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Time
is ticking by now, and 2 tropical storms have formed and gone up the
US coast before the start of storm season on 1 June. Nervously
listening to the weather info every day. Not much in the way of free
internet here, not even in the bars and cafes ashore in the bigger
towns. </span>
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br />
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>Royal
Island</strong></span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">anchored
25 30.92N 076 50.8W</span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">A
tiny 'hurricane hole' anchorage. Bet it would be very busy if a storm
did threaten. </span>
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Looks
like someone started to build a resort ashore, then forgot what they
were doing after the portacabins arrived. Glad they did too. Having
lots of thunder and lightening every evening now. Skies look very
sinister. </span>
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br />
</div>
<strong>
</strong><div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>The
Abacos. Bahamas</strong></span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Another
bunch of islands, with world-class snorkelling on the reefs. Can be
hard to find information on the diving and snorkelling sites, as the
dive shops like to keep that information to themselves. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>Sandy
Cay</strong></span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">26
24.2N 076 59.6W </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Incredible
snorkelling area, crammed with sealife. Spending every possible
moment in the water. This is our favourite snorkel site so far. </span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>Hopetown</strong></span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">A
charming little harbour, though a bit twee and made pretty for
tourists. Fascinating lighthouse with excellent example of British
precision engineering. </span></div>
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</div>
</div>
</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lBIyf7T1FQ0/UMfxCfclWkI/AAAAAAAACUk/HBnYlSyTlfM/s1600/Hopetown+entrance+Lighthouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="202" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lBIyf7T1FQ0/UMfxCfclWkI/AAAAAAAACUk/HBnYlSyTlfM/s320/Hopetown+entrance+Lighthouse.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0v1ASMPU87U/UMfxMJxdoII/AAAAAAAACU8/cFkW9Gdp69c/s1600/Hopetown+moorings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0v1ASMPU87U/UMfxMJxdoII/AAAAAAAACU8/cFkW9Gdp69c/s320/Hopetown+moorings.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">No
anchoring in here, so we took a mooring ball. $15 – 20/night.
Someone unofficial comes to collect the fee from the boat. </span>
</div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">This
is another 'hurricane hole' and plenty of people stay here all
through the season. Just the other side of the houses in the photo is the full fetch the Atlantic ocean - it would be gnarly
on a bad day. </span><br />
<br />
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br />
</div>
<br />
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>Man
o War cay</strong></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">26
35.9N 077 00.7W, anchored </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Caught
up with Andrew and Clare on Eye candy for a proper dive, but strong
currents made us abort at the last moment. Stu used the last of the
air to scrub the bottom of the boat yet again. We are fouling up
within a few days each time. The antifouling we put on in Turkey last
year has fallen off and been rubbed off in just over a year – we
usually get 3 years. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Andrew
is always watching the weather and carefully studying the forecasts.
He alerted us to a short weather window for heading up to the USA. It
would only be a short one, but we were all ready to make the dash
and be in closer proximity to safe harbours if a hurricane formed.
There's no need to check out of the Bahamas, so we were not delayed
by officialdom and could just leave. Once in the USA you send your
paperwork back to the Bahamas to prove that you left. </span><br />
<br />
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<strong>
</strong><span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><strong>North
bound to the USA</strong> . 11 June 2012</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">Everyone
has heard of the gulf stream and its north track up the US coast,
heading offshore at Cape Hatteras to cross over to bathe England in
balmy seas. We imagined a wide belt of water moving north like a
magic carpet. But in reality it is a thin piddle, not very wide at
all. Ideally we would have headed west until we were in the flow and
rode it north up the coast, but each evening violent thunderstorms
were travelling up it, being fuelled by the warm water. The storms
were very active. The stream changes position all the time. Passage
weather gives a 3 day forecast of its position ( we didn't know that
at the time)</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw28UHo0qknWy54QGCl3BaocZtm277w-RR6eMOhK-WQlazupyC294z6o5qGHjy9YKr2p-VGLLQlIi8DotP1urlwQzqGDP9wgQwln9Ku6Yc0GckQGCQZaiO6Ydmt3fFU8BCPfHdFYJaNZs/s1600/gulf+stream.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw28UHo0qknWy54QGCl3BaocZtm277w-RR6eMOhK-WQlazupyC294z6o5qGHjy9YKr2p-VGLLQlIi8DotP1urlwQzqGDP9wgQwln9Ku6Yc0GckQGCQZaiO6Ydmt3fFU8BCPfHdFYJaNZs/s320/gulf+stream.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I4V4AhSSel0/UMfxPQ9a1qI/AAAAAAAACVQ/W2ENGrkxf2Q/s1600/Mahi+mahi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I4V4AhSSel0/UMfxPQ9a1qI/AAAAAAAACVQ/W2ENGrkxf2Q/s320/Mahi+mahi.jpg" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">dinner<br />
<br />
<div align="left" class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;">So
we headed north west just outside the stream instead. Here we found
infuriating adverse currents. We carefully watched the weather
forecasts while at sea, and our slot was getting shorter and shorter
before the next storm was due to come through. We entered Charleston
after 450 miles and tied up at the marina as the ugliest storm clouds
we'd ever seen formed and swirled over the city. It looked just like
the stuff on those National Geographic weather programs. </span>
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<div align="left">
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br />
</div>
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</tbody></table>
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</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
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</span><br />Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-66891938527225807172012-05-19T02:44:00.001+03:002012-05-19T02:44:53.341+03:00BahamasWe are now in the Bahamas. $310 dollars to cruise the islands, there are 300 of them,<br />
and only 3 weeks to get to the US before hurricane season starts (though we are all closely watching<br />
a low developing in the Gulf of Mexico - could be an early start this year?)<br />
Well there are plenty of hurricane holes around here, and some people cruise here all summer.<br />
Not much internet access around here, so apart from position updates on winlink, there won't be much<br />
activity on this blog until we are snugly in the Intracoastal Waterway of the US of A.<br />
Until then....Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-46769460110468042572012-05-08T15:58:00.000+03:002012-05-08T17:05:37.102+03:00Culebra to BahamasSorry there's been no updates recently - the internet has been really
<br>dire. We have been in the lovely island of Culebra, part of Puerto Rico,
<br>the first experience of Latin American Caribbean. It has been a rainy
<br>few days, but we did get in some snorkelling and cycling.
<br>Tonight we are off to the Bahamas, which will take 5 days. Email us at
<br>the winlink address if you like.Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-18240373150331975652012-04-23T23:34:00.000+03:002012-04-23T23:34:27.352+03:00Antigua Classic Race weekOoops, went the wrong way and are back in Antigua drooling over classic yachts in the regatta. Off to BVI's tomorrow for some R&R after observing all the exertion.<br />
<br />Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-79862176372358523912012-04-10T03:14:00.001+03:002012-04-10T03:14:20.627+03:00Our position today - St Maarten or St Martin if you are FrenchSteph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-59207467274258527112012-04-10T03:12:00.001+03:002012-04-10T03:12:14.948+03:00Stepping stones to heavenly Barbuda<br />
If Dominica can be described as an earthly paradise, then Barbuda is a little slice of heaven on earth. But first we had to use some island stepping stones between the two. I've described them just for cruising info.<br />
<br />
<u>Iles de Saintes, Part of Guadeloupe</u>, and therefore France, and the EU, like Martinique.<br />
The entire bay at Bourg de Saintes, where you can check in, is lined with buoys. They collect the fee at 6pm or 8am – 9 euro for 40' boat. They are new moorings. You can still anchor for free in the other bays. From dinghy dock, turn right, cross the square and on the right see a sign for LSM – upstairs there is an internet cafe with the clearance computer. Complete it yourself, and it is stamped by the worker, 1E paid and you are officially in France!<br />
There is good walking and nice beaches, but we found it twee and expensive.<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Guadeloupe, west coast</u>. Anchored on mainland opposite <u>Pigeon Island</u>, a Cousteau marine reserve. We kayaked over and snorkelled around the island. It was very clear and lots more fish than anywhere else in French territory we have seen. Lots of French boats and dive boats, but the French internal tummy alarm sounds simultaneously at 1pm and you have the place to yourself for 2 hours pendant ils mangeant. Scuse my French. Sorry, no photos thanks to the stupid Olympus underwater camera.<br />
<br />
Also anchored <u>Deshaies</u>, small fishing village with a lot of wind. Good holding in the middle. Expensive ashore, clearance at the internet cafe for 5E if you need it.<br />
<br />
Friends explored the marina at <u>Point a Pitre</u> and found it reasonable (20Eish) with cheap laundry. The central canal is very shallow, <2m in places. They went around the outside.<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Antigua, Falmouth Harbour.</u><br />
Excellent anchorage, and nice beach nearby. Walk 5 mins to English Harbour for check in at immigration in Nelson's Dockyard. You will be asked how long you are staying in the harbour – we said 2 nights, and were charged a daily dinghy landing fee, and small per person fee for garbage and sanitation, on top of the $12US for the 4 week cruising permit. Total $35US.We stayed longer in Falmouth by chance, but no-one comes to check.<br />
English Harbour is pretty and the Dockyard has been nicely restored, with an interesting museum of 17thC naval stuff, enough to satisfy even the die-hard Nelson fan like me.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5I589LXO3Ks/T4Nsa23urKI/AAAAAAAACCk/Q6nWGHA8iSU/s1600/museum.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="188" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5I589LXO3Ks/T4Nsa23urKI/AAAAAAAACCk/Q6nWGHA8iSU/s320/museum.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ttud3_0fVdU/T4NmGbJwYAI/AAAAAAAAB_o/f2E43RsNhtU/s1600/Capstans.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="168" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ttud3_0fVdU/T4NmGbJwYAI/AAAAAAAAB_o/f2E43RsNhtU/s320/Capstans.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>These giant capstans were used to keel haul the big ships over to one side, so they could clean the bottom of the boats. Now it is home to superyachts, not naval ships.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<div>
Falmouth harbour – lots of decent bars with free wifi. We caught up on correspondence here, the West Indies have been dire for wifi access. Life on the Corner served us the best meal we've had in a long while- check out the fishburgers. </div>
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RflQ4cbz0hI/T4Nncia--BI/AAAAAAAACB8/gkG3UvCRzec/s1600/View+from+Shirley+heights.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="172" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RflQ4cbz0hI/T4Nncia--BI/AAAAAAAACB8/gkG3UvCRzec/s320/View+from+Shirley+heights.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from Shirely Heights of English and Falmouth harbours</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We were told that we'd really love 'Sunday night at Shirley heights' and have heard lots of cruisers rave about it. Packed with tourists, it's only bearable after 8pm when the music gets a bit more local. We were thoroughly ripped off, through being unprepared, and I have no qualms about telling you how to 'do ' the Heights for free, as they are making far too much I think. From Falmouth, it is a really long walk, so you need a taxi. Here's how to avoid it:<br />
Move your boat to anchor off Freemans's bay, the outer part of English harbour. Take the steep ½ mile track from the beach to Shirley Heights – you enter at the back so avoid the 20EC 'tourist tax' entry fee.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LkrnnaFHv3k/T4NnMfm0GoI/AAAAAAAACBk/_0DSH5m_sck/s1600/Steel+band.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LkrnnaFHv3k/T4NnMfm0GoI/AAAAAAAACBk/_0DSH5m_sck/s320/Steel+band.jpg" width="304" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
You can eat before you go, the BBQ is not too expensive, but dull, and your plastic plate and wobbly knife and fork make eating it troublesome. Take something to drink with you – all drinks are small and expensive (9EC). Go to listen to the steel band, and watch the tourists from all-inclusive hotels. They all wear their sunburn with pride. It's a reality circus. Music better later when a live band starts. Take a torch for the track back home.<br />
<br />
<div>
<div>
We found the Antiguans a bit sullen and uncommunicative. On a couple of occasions we got chatting to people who were really lovely - then they mentioned that they were from Dominica! A lot of Domincans come to work here as there is a much larger market for their goods, fruit and veg, fish etc. </div>
<div>
A lot of super-yachts provision here, so prices can be high. There are so many anti-aircraft masthead lights that the place looks like an oil-rig after dark. </div>
</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ykoC8vc3EqU/T4NsSZgZcXI/AAAAAAAACCc/2WkvlTGRkO4/s1600/Oli+rig.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="171" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ykoC8vc3EqU/T4NsSZgZcXI/AAAAAAAACCc/2WkvlTGRkO4/s320/Oli+rig.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<u>Five Islands harbour, west coast Antigua. </u></div>
<div>
Lovely bay, we anchored off Hermitage Bay, and enjoyed a bit of solitude. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Stu caught a couple of really nice tuna. One of the fish was having a really bad day – not only had he been completely fooled into thinking that a sparkly plastic lure was a tasty fish, but then his back half was taken off by a shark while he was being reeled in. </div>
</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4jtW22Ltn2c/T4NnACiSyZI/AAAAAAAACBE/yReVzjhGZVg/s1600/Lunch+with+shark.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4jtW22Ltn2c/T4NnACiSyZI/AAAAAAAACBE/yReVzjhGZVg/s320/Lunch+with+shark.jpg" width="188" /></a></div>
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<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<u>Barbuda-ful Barduda.</u></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Finally we arrived at the heavenly, coral-reef fringed island of Barbuda. Although annexed to Antigua politically, all land here is communally owned, and all efforts to develop the island have been fiercely resisted by the locals. There were 3 hotels on the island. The famous K-Club closed 5 years ago, but is still for sale for US$40-60million. They used to charge $1000 a night and were always full. There are only 2 hotels to choose from now – this one, The Lighthouse charges $2000 a day. There is nothing here, just a sand-spit, and a handful of yachts. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kZhOmjfYnBE/T4NnMtabucI/AAAAAAAACBo/T-Lk5DlRb8g/s1600/The+lighthouse+hotel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="159" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kZhOmjfYnBE/T4NnMtabucI/AAAAAAAACBo/T-Lk5DlRb8g/s320/The+lighthouse+hotel.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CVITDGV6ZL8/T4NnBT5ADPI/AAAAAAAACBM/wy_UEdqdvfA/s1600/shoreside+development+2000us+per+night.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="172" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CVITDGV6ZL8/T4NnBT5ADPI/AAAAAAAACBM/wy_UEdqdvfA/s400/shoreside+development+2000us+per+night.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S5IpIaYVuv0/T4Nl6OWlPPI/AAAAAAAAB_c/G5fKKu8_NNk/s1600/11mile+beach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S5IpIaYVuv0/T4Nl6OWlPPI/AAAAAAAAB_c/G5fKKu8_NNk/s400/11mile+beach.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>As you can see the beach is not over-run with tourists paying 2000 a night!</i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div>
We thought the island was remarkably quiet, and then we discovered that the only passenger ferry, that used to bring day trippers from Antigua, has been broken for a month. Now the only way onto the island is by the 9-seater plane, which lands twice a day. That's a 18 tourist-a-day-turnaround for the whole island (apart from the few that come in by private plane or helicopter). No wonder it is quiet. </div>
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Other than kayaking up and down the 11mile beach there was little to do. Sight of a 7' shark behind the boat put us off swimming, and a large swell made landing on the beach impossible, as I found out when I got sandblasted and swept onto it from the kayak. Even when you get ashore, there is no road on this side of the island, just the sand-spit. You can cross the lagoon inside to the town by water taxi, but on this occasion we couldn't even get to the shore!</div>
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We headed south and picked our way through the coral to Coco Point, where the other hotel is located. Princess Di must have stayed here it seems. </div>
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With the swell reduced we got the bikes ashore and cycled 9 miles to the main town of Codrington. The roads are mostly deserted except for wild donkeys. We still don't know what side of the road they drive on, as the few cars we saw use the smoothest part of the road. Stu bravely cycled back with many kilos of provisions in his backpack. </div>
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3000 people live on Barbuda, most of' them in Codrington, a spit and sawdust town, with not a lot to offer visitors. We found Grace's Roti shop – a tiny private house with broken chairs in the yard. Stu leant his bike against some junk, until I pointed out that it was their armchair, and he quickly moved it. The roti's were delicious. </div>
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Still at Coco point, we had some delightful snorkelling and swimming, and went on kayak safari to a local beach-bar-restaurant. Daytrippers used to come especially to Uncle Roddys' and the island is famous for it's lobster so lobster lunch at Roddys it was. 75EC for more lobster than was comfortable to eat in one sitting. It was very good, but it will be a while before we can face (and can afford) lobster again.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">And not a lot left over at the end, except a lot of shell!</span></td></tr>
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Having explored the only road on the south of the island, we headed back up to Low Bay on the west side to organise our afternoon out in the water taxi. A set fee of $70 US for 4 people takes you to the Frigate Bird colony and across the lagoon to Codrington, where we needed to clear out of the country. The 'King No.1 water taxi' was advertising his trade on the VHF radio, so we took him up on his invite. <br />
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The King took us around the town pointing out the immigration office, customs, a restaurant, the wifi cafe, and harbour masters offices, none of which we would have found on our own. First we had to visit someone's house as Samantha was not at work doing whatever bit of the paperwork she normally does, so we had to go to her home. The King knew exactly where to find her, and we admired her tortoises in the yard while she did her bit of paperwork. They clear out 300 boats a year here – 2 per day in season. I guess it just is not enough to justify reorganising the offices.<br />
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<i>They eat tortoises here, by the way, but not donkeys.</i></div>
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November is the best time to see the Frigate birds in full effect, as that is their mating season when all the men are displaying their red puffed up chests and competing for girls by squawking loudly.<br />
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But we saw lots of the resulting chicks. Frigate bird have wingspan of up to 8', which takes 2 years to develop. </div>
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<i>Show off!</i></div>
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Meanwhile mum stays at home and looks after the one egg per couple, and dad hops off as far as Galapagos to find a new lady to impress. </div>
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Their feathers are not waterproof, so you can see them drying them in the wind. </div>
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This one is doing yoga!</div>
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They can't dive far into the sea for the ½ kilo of fish that they need a day, so they steal it from other birds. If they try for a fish and get it wrong, they have to be helped out of the sea by fellow frigate birds. </div>
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It is rather Hitchcock-esque. 30000 birds in a small section of the lagoon. Apparently they like it here because there is no air traffic to disturb them. They can fly up high enough to avoid a hurricane system heading their way. </div>
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<i>One of the 900 chicks born this season</i></div>
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We would explore more, but another annoying northerly swell is coming and we must find food. </div>
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</div>Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com0Sint Maarten18.0308266 -63.073632917.970431100000003 -63.1525969 18.0912221 -62.9946689tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-52011436260710569582012-03-20T00:28:00.115+02:002012-03-27T01:26:27.485+03:00Dominica<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizxB0QpJv-NfgvTuhlgECl8_NMmYq8u0qdYkaPNhK_LEIE6Z5BYjWpfhxM9HCcA9whZU-HSuR0hlYcJmLbdTpkSD1LukP8lLcilXSYjWR6iMVOZUs5Vpy83oy4H-T63gTc3xdv4eUKGw4/s1600/2bays.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="78" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizxB0QpJv-NfgvTuhlgECl8_NMmYq8u0qdYkaPNhK_LEIE6Z5BYjWpfhxM9HCcA9whZU-HSuR0hlYcJmLbdTpkSD1LukP8lLcilXSYjWR6iMVOZUs5Vpy83oy4H-T63gTc3xdv4eUKGw4/s320/2bays.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Douglas bay (left) and Prince Rupert Bay (right) from the top of Cabrits National Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Like all Caribbean islands, Dominica has it's share of crime, but the local guy know that news travels fast among yachties and that a boat burglary means that yachties don't come any-more and they wave bye bye to a large proportion of their income. Some time back the guides got together and formed PAYS, Portsmouth Association of Yacht Security. They run non-profit events such as a weekly BBQ, and this funds a night security system, with a guy out on the water every night in all conditions. It works, the bay has a steady stream of boats coming and going, I counted 50 boats at anchor or on moorings. <br />
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As we approached Prince Rupert Bay a boat 'boy' came over a mile out in an open boat to greet us. There is a small group of registered guides, and one of the them will adopt you as you come in. Ours was called Albert. All they ask is our business for the Indian River trip and they can organise day tours, guided hikes etc for which they get a cut. They are full of information on the local area, and to be registered they will have attended classes teaching them all about local fauna and flora. <br />
Albert is hardly a boy, he has been guiding for 28 years! Nowadays he says the young ones go to college in order to be a guide. Dominica has 28.8% unemployment, so it is quite something to be a guide and have access to the tourist dollar. Fortunately most people still have a bit of land, or a back yard and can grow their own produce, so they don't suffer so hard in their unemployment, as other places where they have concreted over their yard, as in Barbados. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7lcrgUVM84E/T3DgdyYCdII/AAAAAAAAB8I/kocTiotdzj8/s1600/Bananas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7lcrgUVM84E/T3DgdyYCdII/AAAAAAAAB8I/kocTiotdzj8/s320/Bananas.jpg" width="286" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A banana plant is deflowered! .The blue bags protect them from insects and reduces marking on our perfect yellow fruit. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>Dominica has nature on steroids, and plenty of rain, 300 inches per year on the east coast – enough for nearly an inch a day, giving rise to 365 rivers and lots of waterfall. The island is agriculturally self-sufficient. It also is the main exporter of bananas to the UK – check yours in the supermarket next time you go, bet they come from Dominica. <br />
With the stupid supermarket prices wars, some of these plantations will not survive, as non-mechanised production is labour intensive and not competitive. Then more unemployment in Dominica. <br />
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Everyone is so friendly and welcoming on the island. It missed the development of massive slash and burn clearance for plantations, as it is so mountainous, and it missed the beach holiday boom by not having beautiful sandy beaches, and now with a young (37) and enlightened prime minister the country is going for the eco-tourism dollar. Since they have more virgin rain forest than anywhere else in the Caribbean they have a unique opportunity to exploit it in the right way. A network of tracks has been cleared, using some old slave tracks (used by slaves to hide in the mountains) and it is now possible, since December 2011, to walk the entire length of the island through varied terrain, rain forest, to plantation, to dry new forest in the north west where the English established a fort to protect our interests from the French in the 18th century. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FMSoteLuzIQ/T3DhDXO8f8I/AAAAAAAAB94/9mPIjIhxF2w/s1600/Trees.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FMSoteLuzIQ/T3DhDXO8f8I/AAAAAAAAB94/9mPIjIhxF2w/s320/Trees.jpg" width="142" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lwx_7gcDO8Y/T1ohvpvVarI/AAAAAAAAB6w/y_UFxt4BPgc/s1600/Calabishie+Hells+Gate+Beach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="142" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lwx_7gcDO8Y/T1ohvpvVarI/AAAAAAAAB6w/y_UFxt4BPgc/s320/Calabishie+Hells+Gate+Beach.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jsc5AfRoU2I/T1oli5C8KpI/AAAAAAAAB7o/zCFzZ4wfT0o/s1600/Flower.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jsc5AfRoU2I/T1oli5C8KpI/AAAAAAAAB7o/zCFzZ4wfT0o/s320/Flower.jpg" width="314" /></a></div><br />
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Here in early March we were still experiencing the 'Christmas winds', or enhanced trade winds of 20 knots. Someone forget to tell the wind that Santa has gone! As we anchored in the bay we were screeched at by an American boat who wanted to have the entire bay to themselves it seemed. Albert stood by in his little boat while we moved anchor yet again to get away from the 'screecher'. Albert came on board for a beer, and discussed river trip options, and gave us lots of information about the island and things to do. <br />
Early next morning someone came on the VHF radio – 'Catamaran adrift! Catamaran adrift!' I looked out the window and there was indeed a catamaran off it's mooring, sailing across the wind of it's own accord, no-one on board, heading straight for the middle of Matador. I hastily jumped up to the cockpit to start the engine and push us forward out of it's way, but luckily the wind swung us round and the cat passed just behind us, on it's way to the beach, where it grounded. Seemed someone had not secured the ropes to the mooring properly. The boat boys were out in force by this time hauling it off the beach with no harm done, and towing it back to the mooring to re-secure it. The owner was blissfully unaware on a river trip. <br />
At the same time another yacht was motoring around, still with a mooring buoy attached to the bow – no doubt the mooring line had snapped underwater. We are often encouraged to use mooring buoys to generate income for someone, and protect the seagrass on the bottom, but we've seen far too many casualties of mooring failures to trust them. We always use our own anchor and chain, and we know when it is set for a secure nights sleep – just a shame about all the others that don't! We always choose a sandy spot to anchor so we don't damage any coral.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LdMi8nxBjxg/T3DgjiLZAUI/AAAAAAAAB8Q/bING0DOAKBY/s1600/Albert+Indian+River2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LdMi8nxBjxg/T3DgjiLZAUI/AAAAAAAAB8Q/bING0DOAKBY/s320/Albert+Indian+River2.jpg" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pEReGXi7vJY/T3Dg94cllnI/AAAAAAAAB9Y/d0gjow5ZVrU/s1600/Indian+River+boat+trip.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="195" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pEReGXi7vJY/T3Dg94cllnI/AAAAAAAAB9Y/d0gjow5ZVrU/s320/Indian+River+boat+trip.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Albert – our boat 'boy' and guide for the Indian River.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>We decided to sit tight on the boat for a couple of days until the wind abated, before we took Albert up on his Indian River boat trip. An early start is required to avoid the hoards of cruise ship passengers from Roseau later in the day, so we set off at 7am a bit blurry eyed, hoping to see some birdlife in the river. The trip takes 2 hours, and since they banned engines on the river in '98 the boat boys row you up and back and point out trees, and birds and wildlife. It is a really beautiful stretch of river, with buttress-root mangrove trees. It was used in Pirates of the Caribbean II – Calypso's house was built here!<br />
(River trip $50EC per person). <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pJHbEcxzTd0/T3Dgpnc32MI/AAAAAAAAB8w/EM1F5-ym41g/s1600/Crab.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pJHbEcxzTd0/T3Dgpnc32MI/AAAAAAAAB8w/EM1F5-ym41g/s320/Crab.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">River crab playing peek-a-boo</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GAN-GlkdgUw/T3DgmAapMDI/AAAAAAAAB8g/T5b2LYJ0qJk/s1600/Bird.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="286" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GAN-GlkdgUw/T3DgmAapMDI/AAAAAAAAB8g/T5b2LYJ0qJk/s320/Bird.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yS42XFvzXq8/T3DgkM5nnsI/AAAAAAAAB8Y/CjLvYSkuiU0/s1600/Albert+Indian+Riverr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="218" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yS42XFvzXq8/T3DgkM5nnsI/AAAAAAAAB8Y/CjLvYSkuiU0/s320/Albert+Indian+Riverr.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Albert enjoys a nap while we look for wildlife up the river path</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rTcZ1yvTC78/T3Dg4ZdVVVI/AAAAAAAAB9Q/8y8s-vNG614/s1600/Indian+River2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rTcZ1yvTC78/T3Dg4ZdVVVI/AAAAAAAAB9Q/8y8s-vNG614/s320/Indian+River2.jpg" width="214" /></a></div><br />
A second day we joined a trip organised through our friend's boat-boy, Alexis, with Stanley as driver and guide. In a very clean and tidy minibus we toured the north half of the island on a 9 hour trip ($100EC pp). It was an excellent and really informative trip, and we learned to recognise the many sources of food that Dominica has in abundance – bay trees, cinnamon, coffee, cocoa, papaya, grapefruits, bananas, plantain, dasheen, yam, lemongrass. Information overload. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0lSly3rotto/T3DgpMbnPyI/AAAAAAAAB8o/KdD2ccSMjPg/s1600/Cacao.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0lSly3rotto/T3DgpMbnPyI/AAAAAAAAB8o/KdD2ccSMjPg/s320/Cacao.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cocoa</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3IT_hjj74MA/T3DhAs_aoFI/AAAAAAAAB9o/LT2O7dveVAg/s1600/cashew.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3IT_hjj74MA/T3DhAs_aoFI/AAAAAAAAB9o/LT2O7dveVAg/s320/cashew.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cashew</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We passed through a reserve where 3700 Carib indians live. They originally came from the Orinoco river in dugout canoes, and settled throughout the islands about 100 years before Colombus and his kind came and wiped out the local 'resistance'. The Caribs in turn were warlike people who had already displaced (and eaten) the original Arawak population of the Caribbean. Very few Caribs survive, and here they have their own reserve, own schools, and love a life close to nature. They are very skilled at basket weaving and carving, so there is lots of local authentic tourist tat for sale. One of only a few places where the souvenirs are not 'made in China'. <br />
A short walk, and rope assisted climb over a short, steep ridge found us at the base of Spanny falls, and a quick dip was in order in the refreshing cool water. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XYPd2BSuie4/T3DhCCKcj3I/AAAAAAAAB9w/jmVREVI7Lhk/s1600/Spanney+Falls.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="291" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XYPd2BSuie4/T3DhCCKcj3I/AAAAAAAAB9w/jmVREVI7Lhk/s320/Spanney+Falls.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6xEA-vUQIB8/T1ok0TwH9bI/AAAAAAAAB7g/paUKAF6pA5Q/s1600/Rainbow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6xEA-vUQIB8/T1ok0TwH9bI/AAAAAAAAB7g/paUKAF6pA5Q/s320/Rainbow.jpg" width="272" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMKXGtBc-WW8mIiKM26KshdRvsYM8WZwN2l42yNDYYql3qMkmkGwRv0EmWn7mYwzmod5qfACBVPrCdqG_IvBqudkHMETsVCa_0dZBR-6duMnEs-tul7PyTKBG63ZQKzCPhvxM9NVoAXeQ/s1600/Chaudiere+pool+group.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMKXGtBc-WW8mIiKM26KshdRvsYM8WZwN2l42yNDYYql3qMkmkGwRv0EmWn7mYwzmod5qfACBVPrCdqG_IvBqudkHMETsVCa_0dZBR-6duMnEs-tul7PyTKBG63ZQKzCPhvxM9NVoAXeQ/s320/Chaudiere+pool+group.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mike, Pete, Courtney, Claire at Chaudiere pool<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sdNd8wkC9tI/T1oispHfSaI/AAAAAAAAB64/6I6dEDrfXg0/s1600/Chaudiere+Pool+jump.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sdNd8wkC9tI/T1oispHfSaI/AAAAAAAAB64/6I6dEDrfXg0/s320/Chaudiere+Pool+jump.jpg" width="240" /></a></div></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">During our 2 week stay in Dominica we did 6 hikes, 3 BBQs, 2 music nights (with Pete and Courtney from Norna) watched 2 weekends of 6 nations rugby, and had a very sociable time indeed.<br />
Pete and Courtney introduced us to their friends, a family of mum dad and 3 small kids, who live in a tree-house, with woven walls and a big fire to cook on downstairs. Dean really is close to nature, they eat off banana leaves, drink from bowls made of kalabash shells, and use plenty of leaves and plants in their diet. Amazing and gentle people, they made us very welcome on their beachside terrace. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Details of the hikes are at the end, which might be of some use to other cruisers, who like us, can't afford to take a guide every-time they go for a walk. There are no guide books for the hiking, and most of the info on the internet is concerned with the southern end of the island around Roseau where the cruise ships dock, so we found out what we could from the internet about the Waitikubuli track and took a few chances on local buses. It makes life so much easier, being in an English speaking country, and the chances of getting lost or stuck at the end of the bus route and timetable are much diminished. <br />
Our confidence to walk in the rainforest unaccompanied was greatly enhanced by the knowledge that Dominica has no poisonous nasty things. It has 2 types of benign constrictor snakes, they run way when they see you. No nasty machineel trees (elsewhere in the Caribbean, everything about these trees is poisonous, even the rain if you shelter under them). It doesn't even have prickys thorns. No malaria, no dengue, no yellow fever. It just has peace, beauty and a few very shy parrots. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z8EmRxi1_TU/T3Dgv3DYLWI/AAAAAAAAB84/H-OCaFWKnt8/s1600/Hummingbird+from+Mike.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="304" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z8EmRxi1_TU/T3Dgv3DYLWI/AAAAAAAAB84/H-OCaFWKnt8/s320/Hummingbird+from+Mike.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hummingbird photo coutersy of Mike<br />
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<div align="left"><span style="font-size: small;">It was great to have a guide a couple of times to point out the wildlife, but discovering a blossom tree full of hummingbirds by accident is so much better for the spontaneity.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OMzJVHYswWE/T1oi9QBWQrI/AAAAAAAAB7A/qEXEDr4oVLA/s1600/Bus+driver.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OMzJVHYswWE/T1oi9QBWQrI/AAAAAAAAB7A/qEXEDr4oVLA/s320/Bus+driver.jpg" width="256" /></a></div><div align="left"><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">As we were out walking back from a swim in the lovely Chaudiere pool, we were walking along the road through a coconut palm estate, and coconuts of all sorts lay all around – green young ones with 'water' and no meat, and the brown ones with sweeter water and thick flesh – it all depends on their age. We found a couple on the ground, but the reality is that you have to remove the thick outer husk to get to the shell inside before you can get a drink. This really requires a machete, and no self respecting Dominican would be without one, but a machete is not the sort of thing one takes on a day hike, so we tried bashing the coconut on various sharp and hard surfaces, determined to overcome this obstacle. No luck, the coconut was not going to open itself. Then a local bus screeched to a halt in front of us, and backed up. Out jumped the driver, with machete, and in two seconds flat he had opened the coconut, bus passengers gazing on in amusement, and handed it back for us to share a drink. Then off he sped in his bus again – now where else in the world would that happen to you, I ask? There are plenty of places where you would be nervous of coming across someone armed with a machete in the middle of nowhere , but in Dominica they mount attacks on the local flora, not the visitors. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-p6OKZxdi0W4/T1okAtHrcHI/AAAAAAAAB7Q/sv6CEXPPADE/s1600/Chaudiere+Pool+walk+coconut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="274" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-p6OKZxdi0W4/T1okAtHrcHI/AAAAAAAAB7Q/sv6CEXPPADE/s320/Chaudiere+Pool+walk+coconut.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="center"><span style="font-size: small;">Sharing the coconut to quench our thirst</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pm6ELfjDyuM/T3DgzzvcqsI/AAAAAAAAB9A/cVqnbeXhcn0/s1600/In+the+trees.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="241" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pm6ELfjDyuM/T3DgzzvcqsI/AAAAAAAAB9A/cVqnbeXhcn0/s320/In+the+trees.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> Hiking at Syndicate falls, at times more like a scramble<br />
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<div align="left"><span style="font-size: small;">Cruising and hiking information</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="font-size: small;"></span></div><div align="left"><span style="font-size: small;">Anchored, no charge</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="font-size: small;">Weeks pass for National parks $12US – needed for Indian river, Syndicate area, Cabrits park</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="font-size: small;">Taxi with Albert to check in on a Sunday - $25EC pp, a long trip across the bay, including taking Stu to the customs man's house, waiting while he did the paperwork, stopping for fill our fuel cans at the petrol station and a visit to the ATM. Check in approx $60EC inc overtime</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="font-size: small;">Indian river trip $50ECpp x 4</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="font-size: small;">Day trip with Stanley (through Alexis) $100EC pp x 8 people</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="font-size: small;">Cabrits National park – walking on east or west side, lots of snakes, cannons and nice views. </span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><a href="http://waitukubulitrail.com/"><span style="font-size: small;">http://waitukubulitrail.com/</span></a></div><div align="left"><span style="font-size: small;">Segment 14 of Waitikubuli trail, starts opposite the anchorage near the entrance to Cabrits park - nice walk along Douglas bay and north west coast.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="font-size: small;">Segment 13</span></div><div align="left"><span style="font-size: small;">Bus from outside the 'Green Light' on main street does circuit to Pennville, Vielles Case & back to Portsmouth. </span><span style="font-size: small;">We got off at Cold Soufriere (don't bother, it's pathetic) walked downhill on beautiful mountain pass, on the bus route, after 1mile turn left onto segment 13. Bus back from Capucin. 3.5 hours walk.</span> </div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="font-size: small;">Segment 11</span></div><div align="left"><span style="font-size: small;">Syndicate Trail - taxi to Syndicate visitor centre (80EC for 4) from bus station. Centre is 5 miles, uphill from main road! </span><span style="font-size: small;">Segment 11 to Borne goes through plantation and virgin rain forest, with squawky parrots. 6 hours, with steep up and downs. Options to get out at wooden bridge (down to Ross) or at sharp right turn below gazebo ( down to Indian river). From Borne, take bus back to Portsmouth. </span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="font-size: small;">Looks like its possible to do segment 10 from Syndicate visitor centre, and down hill to Colihaut, bus back to Portsmouth, but this is untried!</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="font-size: small;">Chaudiere Pool and Calibishie:</span></div><div align="left"><span style="font-size: small;">Bus from Portsmouth to Bense, ask to get off at the path to the pools, it's marked from there, and there is no need for a guide, even if they tell you there is. 45 mins each way. Buy something from the nice rasta man who looks after the trail though. </span><span style="font-size: small;">We walked back out and along the bus route to Calibishie, then took the bus back to Portsmouth. </span></div><div align="left"><br />
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</tbody></table>Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-57489696493586516622012-03-04T22:56:00.000+02:002012-03-04T22:56:47.037+02:00Martinique, Carnival timeMartinique, Carnival, 22 Feb 2012<br />
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After spending one night at Pigeon Island, and partaking of the excellent food in Jambe de Bois again (we didn't check in to St Lucia) we carried on up to Martinique. It is a part of France and the EU, they speak French, little English, and have euros, Carrefour supermarkets and typical French attitude. I went ashore to check in, and was immediately struck by their inability to share a pavement with anyone else. No matter what action I took faced with an oncoming pedestrian – trying to guess which way they would move, or stopping for them to pass, I was just forced onto the road, and nearly run over. I think they have the same problem with space awareness when they are anchoring their boats and tying up alongside you. <br />
We failed to check-in on Saturday when we arrived as it was already the start of Carnival and all officialdom was closed. It has a very relaxed attitude to check-in so we were not concerned and we just flew our French courtesy flag and carried on as normal. <br />
We heard that two boats (Innamorata & Tactical Directions) we last saw in Barbados were here, so it was time to be sociable again, and we anchored with them at the capital city, Fort de France, also the birthplace of Josephine, of the Napoleon fame. When they left, Siga Siga and Mary Ann 2 arrived so the social life continued without interruption. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wrmEjFiAEPQ/T1PRbvcFg3I/AAAAAAAAB50/OGwkt8M0jSg/s1600/Carnaval+ladies+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="203" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wrmEjFiAEPQ/T1PRbvcFg3I/AAAAAAAAB50/OGwkt8M0jSg/s400/Carnaval+ladies+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Carnival is usually and traditionally held on Mardi Gras (fat Tuesday), which we know as Shrove Tuesday or pancake day, and is 60 day before Good Friday. A time to use up all your fatty stores of butter, meat, and sugar before you give them up for lent. It has taken on a party atmosphere broken from it's Catholic roots, an opportunity for the community to celebrate in style. <br />
Each day, Saturday to Wednesday, there was a parade from 4pm to 7pm, with drumming bands, marching bands, and lots of people dressed for a bad taste fancy-dress party. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i9pZJNe_5yY/T1PPGXrWPuI/AAAAAAAAB5E/Vy9g125gStU/s1600/Bad+taste+fancy+dress2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i9pZJNe_5yY/T1PPGXrWPuI/AAAAAAAAB5E/Vy9g125gStU/s320/Bad+taste+fancy+dress2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Each day had a different theme; pyjamas, the parody of marriage, red and black devils, and black and white, as far as I understood from the French pamphlet. Everyone was in good humour, there was not a policeman in sight in the 5 days we were there, and although a fair bit of rum was being consumed in the cars and floats, there was not a sign of drunkenness in the whole affair. Lots of noise, lots of men dressed as women, and all over by 7pm, the city deserted within 30 minutes of the end – they didn't bother to clear up the litter everyday, but it was all smart again on Thursday morning, when the businesses reopened. We don't know what Carnival is like in the other islands, so we will be cautious in our design of next years outfits, just in case cross dressing is just a French thing. How embarrassing would it be to turn up in, say, Trinidad next year, Stu in his slinky undies and basque, and everyone else dressed as rainforest animals for instance. Local advice should be sought I think. <br />
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We took the time between parades to track down a problem with our electronic autohelm, that had suddenly developed Alzheimers, and was liable to wander off without warning in any direction it felt like. Fearing an expensive replacement part necessary, Stuart went ahead with removing floorboards and emptying the food lockers to get to the electronic compass. With the help of the advanced trouble shooting help on the manufacturers website, and a voltmeter, Stu tracked the problem down to a broken wire between compass and computer, and it was solved with the installation of a new wire, and lots of soldering. Rejoice, rejoice, the autohelm's senile dementia was reversed. <br />
I took the opportunity to catalogue and repack the stores into the lockers and we dined on Fray Bentos pies in celebration. <br />
Tactical Tony has a dive compressor on board for refilling dive bottles. What a useful chap to know. We headed up north to St Pierre for a couple of days, with Innamorata, who like us had not done any diving since they passed their PADI certificate some years back. Our equipment was as rusty as our technique, but I re-read the instruction book, we took our antihistamines (to prevent blocked snotty tubes interfering with clearing your ears as you go down) and donned the cumbersome gear, extracted from the bottom of the boat locker. . <br />
The first dive, Stu and Tony managed to get down, but Steve & Carol couldn't unblock their ears, I was stung by tiny things in the water, and then after being swept away from the dinghy in the windy and choppy sea, my jacket decided not to keep any air inside it. This is a BAD thing, as you also have a weight belt to enable you to descend despite the buoyancy of your wetsuit, body fat and air in jacket. I swam furiously back to the dinghy and removed my weights (I could have just dropped them where I was, but it was very deep!) and decided that was enough excitement for one day. The boys filled the tanks again, we had a mediocre French meal ashore and started again the next day, this time on a much shallower site. The Mount Pelee volcano towers over the area, and it's last eruption in 1902 killed 30,000 people – only 2 survived in the city; a cobbler in his cellar and a prisoner in his cell. Who says crime doesn't pay? 12 ships were lost in the eruption of the volcano and now make interesting dive sites around the coast. We had a delightful dive, and my now repaired BCD jacket functioned perfectly and I've reminded Stu that I don't have a life insurance policy for him to cash in, so he'd do better keeping me alive and cooking! The superstructure of the ships above the sand, makes a base for coral to grow, and then the fish and eels come to live among the shelter of the coral. The wreck can be seen from the surface in 7-9m, so is accessible to snorkellers, but it was great to be able to float effortlessly down among the fishies, turtles and eels. What we at first thought was a type of sea weed, turned out to be hundreds of little worms with their heads and bodies about 30cm out of their holes, swaying in the current. As we approached, they all disappeared rapidly into the safety of the holes, proving themselves definitely not seaweed. <br />
Tony filled out bottles again, and we are fit to repeat the exercise at a later date, when the conditions suit. There are heaps and heaps of dive sites around, so we won't be lacking choice. <br />
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We learned that it was possible to check in at St Pierre for a limited time in the mornings of Carnival, this to be done at the tourist office. Elsewhere you have to visit immigration, customs, health and port control with several copies of boat papers, passports and cash. In Martinique, you put your details into the computer yourself, print out an A4 sheet, which the tourist office lady stamps officially, and no-one asks for papers, proof of who you are or where or when you came from, or cash. You have to admire the French for that, at least, and the bread and cheese, and Carrefour supermarkets and wine bag-in-box.......<br />
We are now anchored back in St Pierre, with Siga Siga, and it has been raining constantly for 4 hours. At least it was a chance to get the blog up to date. The trouble with being 'mariners' is that you've looked at the forecast, and you know that it's going to continue for some time, and how heavy it it going to be. No respite. Just got to get on with the interior jobs and ignore the rain pitter patter on the roof, .<br />
Hopefully it will clear tomorrow, and we will walk to the volcano, and if it's too far we will stop at the rum distillery for sampling. It's all in the cause of science, you understand. And one day, the internet will work somewhere, and I will post this blog. <br />
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Martinique is the most northerly island of the Windward Islands. Next stop, Dominica, the start of the Leeward Islands. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KHx-iUs_W9k/T1PRV1894CI/AAAAAAAAB5s/LUhKantHNvU/s1600/Carnaval+lady.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KHx-iUs_W9k/T1PRV1894CI/AAAAAAAAB5s/LUhKantHNvU/s320/Carnaval+lady.jpg" width="249" /></a></div>Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-75284721485968391232012-02-15T21:17:00.015+02:002012-03-04T22:59:23.074+02:00Grenadines, Tobago CaysBequia and Tobago Cays 7-13 Feb 2012<br />
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As soon as you arrive in the Caribbean , you have to be thinking about leaving it for hurricane season, which used to be June to November, but lately has extended into May& December. Where you head for hurricane season, determines your route through the islands, as well as the steady NE to E trade winds which you want to go with, not against. It depends largely on your insurance companies whims, and whether you are going to carry on cruising, or lay your boat up and head out of the country, which means you are not going to be on hand to deal with a 'situation'. Many people keep their boats in hurricane holes, or hurricane-safe(r) marinas and don't leave the main 12 - 35 degree zone where most of the hurricanes track. Since New York was hit by 'Irene' last year, it's a reminder that nowhere is free of the risk of hurricanes, its just about reducing your odds, and being prepared, and plenty of boats and people survive hurricanes every year. We just get to hear about the really big bad ones. You can learn more about them at <a href="http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/">www.nhc.noaa.gov</a>.<br />
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So, although our plan is to head north through the islands and up to the US coast, we heard on the radio that it was last chance for a long time to see some friends from Marmaris, and they were all congregating in the Tobago Cays. I saw pictures of the Grenadines and the Cays in a holiday brochure some years ago, and always yearned to go there, so we took a small detour from our northerly progress and headed south to catch up with them. We checked out of St Lucia, and headed down past St Vincent, and onto Bequia to check into a new 'country'. Bequia is a quaint hippy little island that exists on the business of the numerous yachts that stop there. It has lovely little streets with market stalls of overpriced veg for cruisers and nick-nacks for the charterers. <br />
It rained most of the time that we were in Bequia, and we shortly headed off further south with piles of soggy laundry that we couldn't get dry. <br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><em>Tobago Cays; anchored behind the coral reef (line of white water left of photo)</em></div><br />
We headed straight for the rendezvous in Tobago Cays, navigating nervously through the coral reefs that surround it. It is not actually in Tobago at all, but in the Grenadines, north of Grenada. It is a coral atoll, with a large horseshoe reef, always under water, which you anchor behind. So you are looking straight out towards Africa across the Atlantic, with the reef protecting you from the ocean swells, more so at low tide than high tide. As you can see it is a little slice of heaven. <br />
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We had a reunion party aboard Miss Molly (Phil & Monica), with Awaroa (Helen & John and guests) and Cuttyhunk (Irene & Chris). Awaroa and Cuttyhunk would be heading south and west, through the Panama canal to New Zealand, so we won't be seeing them for some time. Miss Molly are cruising around Grenada and the Grenadines with various guests aboard, and who can blame them (Their son bagged a flight from UK for 400 quid). It is a fab little place to base yourself, lots of white sand beaches, small islands, great snorkelling etc etc. Our four yachts had sailed from Marmaris last winter, where we had a lot of fun partying together. We all congratulated each other on the 6500 miles under the keel this year. Phil & Stu played guitar, I screeched the viola, and there was lots of singing in various keys!<br />
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We'll miss our Marmaris mates, but we will catch up with them again one day. In this cruising world, you soon learn to say 'ta-ra, see ya', instead of dwelling on goodbyes. <br />
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There's not a lot going on in Tobago Cays, just the wildlife, so the kayak was inflated, snorkels out and we were off to explore. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SzGyjh69Mr4/T1PCVkvn5UI/AAAAAAAAB24/pBLPqaNwrz4/s1600/Hawksbill+turtle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="178" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SzGyjh69Mr4/T1PCVkvn5UI/AAAAAAAAB24/pBLPqaNwrz4/s320/Hawksbill+turtle.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hawksbill turtle</td></tr>
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We tracked iguanas on the little island of Baradel, and swam with the critically endangered Hawksbill turtles in the shallow water behind the island – they don't seem to be bothered by being followed by numerous tourists, and as there is nothing to stop them leaving, one has to assume that the grass is particularly good there if you are Hawksbill turtle. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iguanas fighting over my kayak. I don't think they liked the colour</td></tr>
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We took the dinghy out to the outer reef, where mooring buoys are provided and we snorkelled up and over the coral reef. It was really hard going as so much water pours over the reef, you can only just make forward progress swimming hard with flippers. It was impossible to stop and take pictures with the now plastic encased Olympus 'underwater' camera. We tried again on another day at low water (more water held back outside the reef) and it was easier but it was still hard going. <br />
We found a better spot behind Baradel island, sheltered from the winds and the main currents. There were huge coral formations of stag horns, huge coral pots that look like Greek urns, and shoals and shoals of identical fish sitting still in the current, a barracuda stalking them menacingly from the deeper water. The water was as clear as crystal.<br />
Swimming back to the boat in 3m depth, I suddenly saw a spotted Eagle ray beneath me. His tail was so long, I felt he could have easily flicked it up at me, but apparently they are unlikely to sting unless you do something like stand on them. <br />
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Our friends left one by one, and then a group of French chartered catamarans moved in and took over the anchorage, boat boys lingering longingly for their business. Unfortunately you have to share paradise with the French - sad sigh. It was time to head north again and get back on track. <br />
On the SSB radio net the next morning we heard that a yacht called Norna, who we had followed but not yet met, were doing a music jamming evening at a bar in Bequia, so we upped anchor and set off for our next entertainment. It turned out to be a fun evening, with lots of rum punch consumed, and Stu was invited to join in with the fiddler, banjo and mandolin players. It's fascinating to meet people learning to play weird and wonderful instruments. <br />
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Going north is harder than going south, as the wind is mostly NE'ly, so we broke our journey in Wallilabou bay in St Vincent, where much of Pirates of the Caribbean was filmed. You can still see some of the film set, and there's some interesting photos and documents left over from the filming. The three films are screened continuously at the bar there. Even the most die-hard Johnny Depp fan could tire of that, I feel. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtL45O1WQryJTk_zHMFE9Mv0HoPieE0YNoy1Gzhyphenhyphenfgr87x6LnYbgSnw5hjRYt8sTtJYMRH_j3yCv8SUFqwAEINrIZ2m9fLJRrT0bCbdIFQ7RBAb8cba_dUW3fyX_adVJEFDrVv_aRHY2U/s1600/Johnny+Depp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtL45O1WQryJTk_zHMFE9Mv0HoPieE0YNoy1Gzhyphenhyphenfgr87x6LnYbgSnw5hjRYt8sTtJYMRH_j3yCv8SUFqwAEINrIZ2m9fLJRrT0bCbdIFQ7RBAb8cba_dUW3fyX_adVJEFDrVv_aRHY2U/s200/Johnny+Depp.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>Johnny Depp - happy sigh !<br />
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We walked to a waterfall recommended in the guide book, but instead of a wild and rugged spot in the rainforest, an EU funded restaurant and changing rooms had been built, and entry fee now charged. It was very disappointing from what we could see from the gate, but a least we had a little hike in the countryside. St Vincent is an independent country, so we have no idea why the EU felt the need to fund this little spot, perhaps it has a better return on the investment than what they've lent to the Greek islands?<br />
St Vincent is very different from the islands around it, with intense lush vegetation. The north end is remote with terraced rain forest, with no roads into the terraces. It is an ideal place to grow marijuana, which is exactly what goes on there. If you travel ashore, further than Wallilabou bay, you have to have a local guide to ensure you don't stray anywhere you wouldn't be welcome. Imagine what the world would have been like if marijuana had been bought back from the new world instead of tobacco. I guess its no more addictive than the other drugs that they did introduce to the old world : sugar, coffee, tobacco...<br />
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<u>Cruising info:</u>Bequia – $35 EC checkin. Laundry – up past the veg market heading north, there's a DIY cheap place in a garage. Lots of chandlers, average prices. <br />
Tobago Cays, park wardens come by everyday to collect fees – 10EC pp per night. <br />
This is where we anchored, see symbols for snorkelling spots:<br />
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Fish symbol = good snorkelling<br />
Yellow ring= dinghy ashore, turtles, iguana island<br />
Dive marker=where we dived on outer reef<br />
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Wallilabou Bay. We took a mooring at the Anchorage restaurant, 20EC, refundable if you eat there, which we did, and it was good and reasonably priced. In addition, Davis, the boat boy charged us 20EC for tying up, but he did have to do a bit of work for that in his rowing boat. Good snorkelling over by the hole in the rock across the bay, not as good as T Cays or St Lucia though.Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-42497548789260430252012-01-30T19:53:00.033+02:002012-03-04T21:17:52.118+02:00St Lucia26 January 2012<br />
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It didn't take 24 hours to get to St Lucia. We left Barbados at 5pm, not long before dark and had to keep slowing down to avoid arriving in the morning dark at Rodney Bay, St Lucia. This downwind sailing is a lot of fun. The wind has rarely dropped below 15 knots since we arrived in Barbados. Great for sailing, but a bit of a fight hanging out laundry.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tzC1fh9PGMA/Ty2VkfClEVI/AAAAAAAABzk/zVIHef7g4bw/s1600/Pitons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="207" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tzC1fh9PGMA/Ty2VkfClEVI/AAAAAAAABzk/zVIHef7g4bw/s320/Pitons.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pitons, Soufriere</td></tr>
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While Barbados looked like Surrey from the sea, St Lucia is much more exotic and green with towering volcanic peaks. Much of the island is still undeveloped, but Rodney Bay in the north is a very rich area, full of bars and restaurants to cater for the many Americans who spend the northern winter here.<br />
It still has it's raw side and we were to see it at the Friday night Jump-up at Gros Islet, where you can get street food, rum with anything, and watch the locals dance. It was not the sedate dancing that we saw in Barbados, more like sex with clothes on!<br />
Gros Islet is the local village to Rodney Bay, and the houses are glorified shacks, but again, everyone was friendly and we didn't have any problems – well Stu did remove a prostitute's hand from his wallet in his jeans pocket – so you do have to be alert!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b3p541ocOgE/Ty2UP0_H0oI/AAAAAAAABzc/zimS1yoWDyQ/s1600/Becca+Dibben+Malista.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b3p541ocOgE/Ty2UP0_H0oI/AAAAAAAABzc/zimS1yoWDyQ/s320/Becca+Dibben+Malista.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Becca, Dibben, Malista</td></tr>
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Becca duly delivered to St Lucia, she went off to 'couch surf' in a local house. If you haven't heard of it, look it up on google. It is a really cool concept for independent travellers. Becca's couch surf host was a interesting local lady, and we took Becca and Malista on a short day hop to Soufriere 15 miles down the coast. This is a really special area, that St Lucia is best known for – the volcanic Piton peaks give the island's beer its name.<br />
It was fascinating to hear all about the local culture from a well-educated, independent and sassy lady, who runs her own wooden furniture workshop. She was educated in the US, so she has a lot to say about the good and bad of her native country, St Lucia. She had never seen her country from the sea before, so it was really great that we gave her a ride. It was very interesting to see her reaction to the boat boys that charge to 'help' tie you to a mooring buoy, even when we need no help, and to 'mind' your dinghy while you are ashore (read that your dinghy might not be in good shape if you don't pay) and the ozone-layer high taxi charges for foreigners. It was also interesting that we attracted the police boat, for a 'safety search' The boat boy said it was only because we had a local person on board.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JqZVcctuu5c/Ty2UGi6SfTI/AAAAAAAABzU/z95ig-u-1Qo/s1600/friendly+boat+boys.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="202" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JqZVcctuu5c/Ty2UGi6SfTI/AAAAAAAABzU/z95ig-u-1Qo/s320/friendly+boat+boys.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Friendlier boat boys selling fruit, Rodney bay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>We returned to Rodney bay after Peter departed for the airport and chilled a little. Well chilling is something we have hardly had time for yet, but we made the acquaintance of the live music in Jambe De Bois restaurant, and their very acceptable Rotis. ( Wraps of curried meat and potatoes, standard fare in these parts.) <br />
Sport was on the agenda with 6 nations live rugby and then the experience of our very first Superbowl. In the words of a good friend. “It can have it's exciting moments but first you must lower your intellectual expectations of sport”. We were thus enthralled for all 3 hours it took to play the 60 minute series of throw and catch routines, surrounded by armoured supermen intent on cuddling the nearest opponent and the latter trying to retain their dignity by running away. Some adorned with a tea towel tucked into their waist band, presumably to wipe their hands after touching the ball which could not be guaranteed free of contagious disease. After which excitement, an advertisement or 5, were required to calm the hysteria. Still the biggest excitement came near the end when, I guess, a highly paid professional, caught the ball and fell flat on his ass over the score line, disaster, You see its all about tactics and sitting down on your ass on the try line apparently wasn't the tactic required at this precise time. We know this because just before that play (that's the speak) the guy throwing the ball, opened a plastic case strapped to his arm and consulted the instruction page written for that round. Maybe I missed the point but surely If the opposition need to know the tactics of the opponent, they should target that little grey plastic flip card holder!! More study may be required but I will need a mild sedative first.<br />
Well it was a little taste of American 'culture' to help us understand them!<br />
<div><br />
</div><div><div>The most amazing aspect of St Lucia is the snorkelling opportunities, both on the reef at Pidgeon Island and at Soufriere. I didn't know the names of anything we saw, but a few hours of education on the internet helped with identification. I was very excited to be pottering about, head in the rocks, and find my first real live sea-horse. Having worked in epilepsy research, we had a bit of a thing about hippocampus- the bit of the brain often affected. Our work unit was adorned with all things sea-horsey, and now I got to see real one close up – about 6inches long and working his way along the weeds with his tail.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-voZOWIM_G6E/T0p_KQNTAsI/AAAAAAAAB2A/PCPRge0huV0/s1600/sand+diver.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-voZOWIM_G6E/T0p_KQNTAsI/AAAAAAAAB2A/PCPRge0huV0/s1600/sand+diver.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pBVcg_KBtHo/T0p_KcIXdXI/AAAAAAAAB2E/CZYSvdJGkfI/s1600/sea+horse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pBVcg_KBtHo/T0p_KcIXdXI/AAAAAAAAB2E/CZYSvdJGkfI/s1600/sea+horse.jpg" /></a></div></div><div>I also found a large ray sleeping/hiding in the sand just behind our boat, 2 flying gurnards checking out our anchor chain, a sea snake checking out our anchor. Also, sanddivers lurking menacingly in the sand, and large squid doing the the swimming forward/backward thing. Bigger fish lurked at the end of the reef. I always find it a bit freaky to find something fishy as long as a metre in the water with me, but I'm learning to desensitise to the 'aaah, run away' temptation.</div><div>I have to keep pinching myself, to assure myself that we are really here, and we don't have to go home after a week, like the cruise-ship passengers and Sandals' resort sun-worshippers. There was a wedding every day on the beach in front of us at Sandals. Why would you choose a ground-length white frock for that? It must be caked with yellow sand by the end of the photo shoot. And sand in the wedding bed can't be all that comfortable. </div><div><br />
</div><div><br />
</div><div>Rodney Bay has excellent stocking up options, some of it very expensive. Luckily we are still working our way though the boat supplies, including veg and cured meat from Spain. So far we have found prices for staple foods to be about the same as Uk. Some veg is very expensive, especially tomatoes and peppers, £3-5 per kilo. £2 for a small lettuce. The smaller the island the more expensive it gets, but then that's not so surprising. Some things you just have to learn to live without or eat less, or convert an area of the cockpit to a vegetable patch and grow our own. They seem to have rain, sun and volcanic soil in ample amounts here, so not sure why it should be difficult to grow good local food,Rodney Bay has excellent stocking up options, some of it very expensive. Luckily we are still working our way though the boat supplies, including veg and cured meat from Spain. So far we have found prices for staple foods to be about the same as UK. Some veg is very expensive, especially tomatoes and peppers, £3-5 per kilo. £2 for a small lettuce. The smaller the island the more expensive it gets, but then that's not so surprising. Some things you just have to learn to live without or eat less, or convert an area of the cockpit to a vegetable patch and grow our own. They seem to have rain, sun and volcanic soil in ample amounts here, so not sure why it should be difficult to grow good cheap local food, and certainly no reason to import it from California.<br />
<br />
<u>Cruisers see below for information about mooring etc. </u>We anchored by Pidgeon Island, Rodney Bay, hard sand, good holding once in. Better shelter than the main anchorage but a long dink ride to the marina in town. Fab snorkelling on the reef just off the boat - saw seahorse, flying gurnard, sea snakes, big wrasses (1m), sanddivers, pipefish as long as my forearm. Excellent bar/restaurant ashore with wifi, Jambe de Bois - Saturday night guitar and fiddle, 7-9pm, all the tunes you would know. Sunday night Jazz. <br />
You can also anchor off the marina entrance, but we took several attempts to get a good hold, and the wind does blow. <br />
Inside the marina charge 0.70c US per foot for a berth plus water and electric, or 0.35c US/ft for a mooring in the inner lagoon. Through the inner lagoon is a dinghy dock, go through the alley and there are 2 supermarkets in a modern mall. Foodmarket has christmas pud, sugar free juice, Fray Bentos pies and much more at a price. For better value run of the mill stuff, SuperJ on the main road has an excellent selection, and some local fresh veg at good prices. <br />
Bus 1A to Castries, 2.50EC, from the main road. Interesting markets with local food stalls in the veg market. <br />
We went to Soufriere on a Sunday - avoid the weekend, weekdays are quieter. We took a mooring buoy on the left as you approach Hummingbird anchorage (it was blowing). A boat buoy assisted and we paid 15EC(should have haggled to 10EC). Amazing snorkelling under the boat - huge fish. It is too deep and shelving to anchor here. <br />
We went ashore and boys on the dock wanted 10EC per hour! to mind the dink. They were a OK but a bit intimidating. <br />
The town is a bit raw, everything directed towards extracting your cash. The SMMA marine park wardens should come around at dusk to collect 40EC for the mooring (even if anchored), but they never visited us. <br />
In Castries we bought a Digicel SIM for the smartphone (EC$15 inc $5 credit) and then they enable a data bundle $12.50/week. It is slow and often not up to 3G speed, but OK for basic internet. The Digicel shops in Rodney could not help with this, but the shop in Castries knew their stuff. Since then it has worked in St Vincent & Grenadines, but not at all in Martinique(goes onto roaming and data will not work).</div></div><div></div>Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-71790615936745680172012-01-25T19:21:00.035+02:002012-02-25T19:41:40.534+02:00BarbadosArrival 7 January 2012<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3SI-jboFGfA/Ty2a9c3XE7I/AAAAAAAAB0k/mqwL3t9GIHE/s1600/Coconut+tree.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3SI-jboFGfA/Ty2a9c3XE7I/AAAAAAAAB0k/mqwL3t9GIHE/s320/Coconut+tree.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<br />
Ahh, what bliss, arrival in the Caribbean. It really made the passage so worthwhile, especially thinking of our friends in the UK being dealt lashings of freezing rain, and our friends hibernating through another Med winter, the same rain without the freezing. Actually forget that, they are freezing.<br />
In the anchorage,there were old boat friends and new ones to meet - we had heard them on the SSB net but were yet to put faces to voices, all anchored in Carlisle Bay, Bridgetown. It has a reputation as a rolly anchorage, and it did require the use of the flopper stoppers at times (buckets or drogues hung out from the sides of the boat to reduce the pendulum effect) but it was very lovely despite that, with a white sand beach. It was a shock to hear a loud snorting noise near the cockpit one day, and even more of a shock to see a race horse being exercised 1 Km out to sea in 5m of water next to our boat. In fact one boat awoke one morning to cries of 'help help', to find an exhausted trainer thrashing violently in the water in a vain attempt to turn his head-strong stallion back toward to shore. Don't worry, they are built of strong stuff and they both returned in safety.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KL6HXqiJIS0/Ty2TE17pMvI/AAAAAAAABy8/C6h3doSdIRs/s1600/swimming+horses.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KL6HXqiJIS0/Ty2TE17pMvI/AAAAAAAABy8/C6h3doSdIRs/s320/swimming+horses.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spot the horse!</td></tr>
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<br />
Our first task was to check into this new country. The books state that you must take your yacht into the cruise ship port, and the skipper only should go ashore. Well the cruise ship port is pretty unfriendly to yachts, being full of er, cruise ships, with a swell, lots of wind and yacht-snagging fenders. So we took the advice of fellow cruisers, went in by dinghy. When asked if we had come in by boat, Stu said yes and waved in the general direction of the dinghy. Satisfied with this, and without looking out the window the officials stamped us in and welcomed us to Barbados.<br />
(If you are following next year, go to Port St Charles up north to check in, you can also come alongside and fill with water there for a couple of quid)<br />
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Barbados is such a friendly island. The country has a strong British colonial background, but has been independent since 1966. It remains a commonwealth country, and this is evident in the supermarkets where you can buy NZ produce tax free (unlike in the Uk, thanks to our EC relations). Everywhere we went people tried to help us, without the annoyingly Turkish 'help' which usually leads you to their brother or cousin. They genuinely welcome visitors to the country. Food prices are high, even in the local market and entry fees for the tourist sights are eye-watering, even by European standards (20 quid a head to see some caves, come on!) The cruise ship passengers keep on coming, and keep on paying.<br />
The best value for money trips, were to take the local buses. 2$ Barbados (about 70p) for any trip, so you could do your own tour of the island for about a fiver for the 2 of us, all day. The blue regulated buses were clean and occasionally sedate, but we often chose the yellow minibuses which play loud reggae just for the buzz. They ply the same route, but compete for customers, so often the journey is a little frenetic as they overtake each other to get to the next busy bus stop first to steal the passengers of the following bus. Its a game of leap frog with reggae and tight cornering. Only one yellow bus was slow and uninterested in getting ahead. Interestingly it had a sweet aroma about it as well!!<br />
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New boats were arriving every day, having finished their long voyage, like us. Beach parties and rum punches were shared and enjoyed. Getting ashore on the beach was tricky as the swell crashed onto the beach, and quite a few dinghies turned turtle on the way in. I'm sure we will all hone our surf dinghy skills before long.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oW5vNnc_VhI/Ty2Z-XxTNoI/AAAAAAAABz8/3BTUmTQlR80/s1600/Barbados+beach+party2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oW5vNnc_VhI/Ty2Z-XxTNoI/AAAAAAAABz8/3BTUmTQlR80/s320/Barbados+beach+party2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QpkFrL_upfs/Ty2ZxSlWmAI/AAAAAAAABz0/YQ2HGJ6-sGE/s1600/Barbados+beach+party+sunset.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="198" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QpkFrL_upfs/Ty2ZxSlWmAI/AAAAAAAABz0/YQ2HGJ6-sGE/s320/Barbados+beach+party+sunset.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Cricket is a bit of an obsession in Barbados, so we paid a homage to the Kensington Oval to see a game of the Caribbean T20 cricket series, ideal cricket game for those like us, with a short attention span, flood lit and excitement non stop. All over in 3 hours, and quite enjoyable. We had to have a kiwi explain the rules to us though, as we couldn't work out where the target for the ball was.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bY-ELNIBkYk/Ty2R9ZjKYpI/AAAAAAAABx0/wk0on8eBg0I/s1600/kensington+oval+barbados+t20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="189" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bY-ELNIBkYk/Ty2R9ZjKYpI/AAAAAAAABx0/wk0on8eBg0I/s320/kensington+oval+barbados+t20.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1LMywg6X9d0/Ty2SEYRLjiI/AAAAAAAABx8/c_yMXsmcX2s/s1600/kensington+oval+barbados.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="85" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1LMywg6X9d0/Ty2SEYRLjiI/AAAAAAAABx8/c_yMXsmcX2s/s320/kensington+oval+barbados.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vd3R0aDlvsk/Ty2ST4nYS5I/AAAAAAAAByE/2FrcfI__FvE/s1600/cricket+spectatators.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="152" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vd3R0aDlvsk/Ty2ST4nYS5I/AAAAAAAAByE/2FrcfI__FvE/s320/cricket+spectatators.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><div>It would have been quite easy to think that we were only going to sail downwind for ever more, but Mike, the commodore of the local cruising club was gathering support for the Round Barbados Mount Gay Rum race. The thought of going back out to sea, and then going upwind, and into the ocean swell was enough to put most people off. But Stu saw a record to be broken, with the prize being the skippers weight in rum. The double-handed record stood over 10 hours and he felt sure we could beat it. All the other cruising yachts politely declined, but oh no, not us. Gluttons for punishment, we signed up. Then we met the competition. One 44' yacht had sailed upwind for 24hours to Barbados just to do the race (previously had sailed the really hard way from Australia around the Cape of Good Hope) and another yacht who enjoyed their Atlantic crossing so much they do a circuit every year. And then there was the local entry, a big red racing boat, with new sails and empty tanks and no live-aboard paraphernalia to weigh him down. Alas, we were done for. </div><div>But we did win the practice race, with line honours and on handicap We had the help of Tony from Tactical Directions for this race which we all enjoyed. Matador did us proud on the big day. We did beat the double-handed record by about 1 ½ hours for the 60 mile race, hurrah, but sadly so did the big red race boat and the upwind practised 44'er - they took 30 and 10 mins from us respectively. Oh well, it was great fun anyway. Most of all, we got over our fear of the big bad sea, and of going upwind. When you can have a hot shower, rum and a comfy nights sleep at the end of the race you can enjoy pounding into big waves and having them dump on you and all of the boat and having the locker contents randomly rearranged once more. We now proudly sport the Mount Gay Rum Red Caps sought all over the world and only worn by the few who participate in one of their events.( You cannot buy one, even if you are a cruise ship passenger)</div></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZA6tUZ2QMj0/Ty2SfV5JQwI/AAAAAAAAByc/WNhckY_xmCQ/s1600/race+competitor+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="253" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZA6tUZ2QMj0/Ty2SfV5JQwI/AAAAAAAAByc/WNhckY_xmCQ/s320/race+competitor+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The competition!</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HcAZKbIt-sA/Ty2SlH4O-QI/AAAAAAAAByk/HbY0pOD_yYI/s1600/race+competitor+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="193" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HcAZKbIt-sA/Ty2SlH4O-QI/AAAAAAAAByk/HbY0pOD_yYI/s320/race+competitor+3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qmSJB76zpKw/Ty2S_hBj7HI/AAAAAAAABy0/pBhnRhaMm5s/s1600/Rum+winner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="246" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qmSJB76zpKw/Ty2S_hBj7HI/AAAAAAAABy0/pBhnRhaMm5s/s320/Rum+winner.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The winner's weight in rum, with Mike the commodore (right)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LDlKbMPecrE/Ty2SWiwa1OI/AAAAAAAAByM/tKzlcTE-wZI/s1600/matador+in+the+lead.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="219" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LDlKbMPecrE/Ty2SWiwa1OI/AAAAAAAAByM/tKzlcTE-wZI/s320/matador+in+the+lead.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Matador leads the race!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ef_G2itVcoE/Ty2bn4fFFsI/AAAAAAAAB1E/253dBGn56b0/s1600/race+leaders.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ef_G2itVcoE/Ty2bn4fFFsI/AAAAAAAAB1E/253dBGn56b0/s320/race+leaders.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tactical Tony </td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div><div>One tourist attraction we thought worthwhile was the Welchman Hall Gully (23 Barbados$), an old collapsed limestone cave in a gully that has been planted with tropical plants. It is a beautiful place, with an informative guide to the plants, we visited with Claire and Mike from Siga Siga. Wild monkeys swing through the trees, and it is great place to have a picnic amongst the dangling lianas. We picked nutmeg off the ground,and pondered the dangers of walking under so many coconut palms. </div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q7ZagGkfI7M/Ty2bkeltCsI/AAAAAAAAB08/T8o-X-xJdRE/s1600/Welchman+Hall+Gully+view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q7ZagGkfI7M/Ty2bkeltCsI/AAAAAAAAB08/T8o-X-xJdRE/s320/Welchman+Hall+Gully+view.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ortq7DAYNcc/Ty2babAdPGI/AAAAAAAAB00/_dr9SyLHv7k/s1600/East+coast.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ortq7DAYNcc/Ty2babAdPGI/AAAAAAAAB00/_dr9SyLHv7k/s320/East+coast.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The east coast, Bathsheba</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4h-tyZaU-u4/Ty2aRLspw4I/AAAAAAAAB0M/gGA6zWge0fQ/s1600/Rum+shack.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="175" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4h-tyZaU-u4/Ty2aRLspw4I/AAAAAAAAB0M/gGA6zWge0fQ/s320/Rum+shack.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rum shack</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nqZzgcEPpTc/Ty2aq_TUqZI/AAAAAAAAB0U/d1CYKJ0JIsU/s1600/Oistins+Fish+Fry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nqZzgcEPpTc/Ty2aq_TUqZI/AAAAAAAAB0U/d1CYKJ0JIsU/s320/Oistins+Fish+Fry.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carol & Steve (Inamorata) Claire & Mike (Siga Siga)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iHcP6aMlFNQ/Ty2aLEDbN4I/AAAAAAAAB0E/HBXIEy7YTBs/s1600/Oistins+Fish+Fry+dancing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iHcP6aMlFNQ/Ty2aLEDbN4I/AAAAAAAAB0E/HBXIEy7YTBs/s320/Oistins+Fish+Fry+dancing.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dancing at the Oistins Fish Fry</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div><div>A highlight of the Barbados visit was to the Friday night Fish-fry at Oistins, a one-time poor fishing village, now frying tourists for dollars, for an outdoor fishy meal on a plastic plate (about 12 quid, so not a fortune by UK standards). It's fun, and a bit touristy these days, more tourists dancing than locals on the reggae stage, but the older folk were having a lovely time walzting and tango-ing in the warm midnight air, dressed up to the nines in their dancing frocks. Despite the tourists the atmosphere is one of typical Caribbean fun night out and the locals eat drink and dance as they know how.</div><div><br />
</div><div>Close to the anchorage, some old ships have been deliberately scuttled to provide snorkelling fun, and the wrecks teemed with reef fish. It was not a particularly clear day, but you can get the picture:</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DFN-DLMklew/Ty2Td3hmx4I/AAAAAAAABzM/2UK-ewjCddQ/s1600/Sunken+boat+dive.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DFN-DLMklew/Ty2Td3hmx4I/AAAAAAAABzM/2UK-ewjCddQ/s320/Sunken+boat+dive.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><div>The pictures were the last underwater ones to be taken with our Olympus Tough underwater camera, not even a year old and it took on water and blew up the battery. So far we seem to have saved it with a dose of 'corrosion block' magic formula, but we can't risk it underwater again. So take my advice, don't buy one!!! Get a separate case for your camera and at least you can see if it starts leaking and avoid catastrophe.</div><div><br />
</div><div><br />
</div><div>Soon it was time to move on, and we were due in St Lucia to meet Peter Dibben. A young American girl, Becca, from a fellow cruising yacht needed a lift, so we signed her on to our crew list and set off for a new island. It was interesting experience for us to have crew, as we have sailed on our own for so long, we didn't really know what to do with her. She was an interesting character though, and it livened up the 24 hour passage to have someone to talk to on night watch. She said our boat sailed fast and smoothly, so she can come back anytime!!</div></div><div><br />
</div>Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-53855197357966993212012-01-21T04:13:00.001+02:002012-01-21T04:13:05.460+02:00RacingHaving seriously short memories , we signed up for the Mount Gay Round <br>Barbados Regatta, which means we have to go back out round the other <br>side of the island. When will we ever learn??<br>Yesterday we won the practice race by 3 minutes on handicap.<br>Unfortunately the competition is a bit stiffer tomorrow and we have to <br>go round the windy and wet side of the island so we'll have our work cut <br>out for us. Early start at 7.15am so off to bed soon. As part of the <br>race we have a Yellowbrick tracker fitted so you can see how our <br>progress is going at :<br><a href="http://www.mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com/index.html">http://www.mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com/index.html</a><br>and click on Track the Race.<br>When will we ever learn??Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-12282001172643233222012-01-09T01:08:00.037+02:002012-02-09T02:20:49.643+02:00Atlantic Crossing La Gomera to Barbados<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wff23ORFRu4/TzME3pOQNHI/AAAAAAAAB1M/sjrmFW4EGbM/s1600/route.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="130" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wff23ORFRu4/TzME3pOQNHI/AAAAAAAAB1M/sjrmFW4EGbM/s320/route.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><em>Atlantic crossing – La Gomera to Barbados </em>2747 nautical miles, average speed 6.04 knots (over ground), 5.7 through water<br />
18 days, 23 hours. 4.6 engine hours.<br />
Wind 15-25 knots ENE most of the way. Gusts and squalls up to 30knots. Seas 2-4 m always confused, NE swell mixed with NW swell from hurricane force depressions off the Irish coast, and SE swell from somewhere. </div><br />
After 21 nights enjoying the simple delights of La Gomera, as the locals sang, drank and played guitars around the bars in the lead up to Christmas, we managed to slip our lines from La Gomera and head south. The weather was still good sunbathing weather, but the Gomerans were into their winter woollies and coats already, fashion no doubt being dictated by the cooler 'peninsular'. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
We were in touch with our fellow west-bound yachties on our SSB net every morning and we were hearing of lively conditions, despite the 20 knot, seemingly perfect forecast. We cautiously put up the mainsail, fully reefed to it's minimum size, and a scrap of genoa unrolled and we set off onto the high seas. I couldn't help but think of the 'Discovery' voyages including Columbus, in 1490's, who left from La Gomera, setting off into the real unknown, not knowing if they would ever find the land that none of the western world had yet visited. At least we knew where to find safe harbours at the other end, and not too many savages to greet us. <br />
We headed south towards the Cape Verde islands, an African island group, now an increasingly popular holiday destination. The seas were lumpy and uncomfortable, and all the yachts on passage were complaining of the difficulty in doing much more than keeping watch, cooking, sleeping and staying upright. The first 3 days is the worst, as we adjusted to keeping 3 hour on/off watches, increasing to 4 on/off. We were making daily runs of 140-145 miles, which we were very pleased with, and Matador was behaving very nicely in the large swells. <br />
On 23rd December, we started to get some wind from SE, which was going to make it harder to reach the Cape Verdes, being more of a reach, and we were going to miss Christmas day there anyway, so we decided to turn more SW and miss our friends already in Mindelo, to head straight for Barbados. We felt we had done the hard 3 night introduction bit, and didn't want to stop at the CV's, then have to do it all again. We were getting SE'ly smackers – rogue waves not coming from the wind and swell direction. They would smack violently into the hull and dump bucket loads of sea onto the top of Matador. This meant that every hatch had to be kept closed, so it was hot and smelly inside, only the dorades (little funnels on deck) providing any ventilation at all. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6wTtdWnDFP4/Ty2QeseCIII/AAAAAAAABxE/1U0AO4giUtQ/s1600/Christmasm+lunch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="257" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6wTtdWnDFP4/Ty2QeseCIII/AAAAAAAABxE/1U0AO4giUtQ/s320/Christmasm+lunch.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IGOxTq03o08/Ty2QRI1aPTI/AAAAAAAABw0/Zp9oue3rXUc/s1600/Merry+Christmas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IGOxTq03o08/Ty2QRI1aPTI/AAAAAAAABw0/Zp9oue3rXUc/s320/Merry+Christmas.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Stuart managed to cook and took great delight in serving up exquisite dinners, while I would have settled for a sandwich, my stomach never really knowing if it was 2am or 2pm. Every evening I spent an hour or so on the computer, updating our position report and trying to get weather forecasts and GRIB files (a type of graphic weather file). I had to connect the computer to the SSB radio, tune to the shore HAM radio station and try to make our computer talk to the shore. This would take many attempts, as the propagation of the radio waves is very variable. With my bum wedged onto the chart table seat, my top half would every few seconds try to be transported to the other side of the yacht, my stomach lurching up and down, eyes trying to focus on the dancing letters on screen, and my fingers frustratingly missing the keys on the keyboard. All this in the hot stuffy enclosed boat with waves smacking noisily into the sides. After this would be time for dinner, but Stu could never quite understand why I wasn't very interested in the food he was painstakingly preparing. <br />
Before departure, I had prepared the galley with lots of instant food that could be thrown together in a hurry, but Stu was determined to be chef! You can take a look at our on board menu below. <br />
Day times were a little easier, and I managed to make lunches, breakfasts or brunches or whatever they were, depending on our latest shift, and bake bread from the fantastic LIDL wholemeal bread mixes. They just need 5 minutes mixing with warm water, resting and no kneading, so not too messy and very good results too. <br />
<br />
We gradually increased our watches to 6 hours on/off, there was very little to see at night, no moon and only 3 ships on the whole passage (2 of which crossed within a mile of me at night despite all that empty ocean!). The nights were 12 hours long now, so this split the night in 2. Thank goodness for mp3 players and a headlamp for reading. I found it more comfortable to stand up and do cockpit 'ski-ing' to accommodate for the boat motion, than to be wedged in the corner of the cockpit for hours at a time, and you really had to be wedged, if you relaxed for a moment you'd be thrown off your seat onto the cockpit floor. Even off watch, in our sea berths in the main saloon, with the canvas lee clothes up to keep you in, your flesh constantly rolls around your bones. I'm not sure what happens when you nod off, if you are reflexively tensing muscles to oppose the roll or if you just go jelly like. It wasn't hard to sleep after first 3 days, sleep deprivation has it's advantages. <br />
We now had a new heading, and dropped the mainsail completely (it seemed to be rounding us up and increasing the roll). We poled out the genoa on the port side and the blade (a large working jib) was hanked on to the moveable forestay and poled out to starboard. When the swell and wind worked together from behind, we had a blasting sail, surfing down the waves. As the wind got up we would furl away some genoa, without having to go on deck, and in the windiest conditions of 30 knots we had just the blade up, luckily we never got to find out what we would need to do in 40 knots! <br />
Twice a day we had a very uncomfortable sea, with cross seas coming from the NW, making us corkscrew around, the sea seeming to boil confusingly around us, maybe it was some sort of tidal effect. The Aires windvane coped very well all the way across, even in the worst sea state. We used the electronic autopilot once, when Stu needed to get into the back locker to tighten some of the Aries' control line pulleys, as they were working a bit loose. Lots of other yachts reported problems with their electronic autopilots on passage, as the gear was having to work hard 24/7 in the difficult swell conditions, and many yachts took big waves in the cockpit, soaking electrics and creeping into hatches. We were very pleased that we were not reliant on the one technology. None of us were keen on the idea of hand-steering all the way across (as our friends on Steel Sapphire did last year, Lynn's hands and feet were bruised from bracing herself constantly on the wheel).<br />
Every day we checked into the SSB radio net, and there was a radio check with Egret, far ahead of us, who had lost their rudder (probably thanks to a whale or container) not far out of the CV's and were heroically sailing their 38' boat in really difficult conditions with a drogue fashionied out of fenders, rope and kedge anchor, to keep them on course for St Lucia. Plenty of badly prepared yachts make it to the West Indies every year, but Egret was a well prepared sea-worthy boat. Goes to show it can happen to anyone. For all we have to say about plastic-fantastics (Bavarias and Jeanneaus) – there are plenty of them here that have made it across – so Vonasi, Birvidik, Shecat – no excuses, even catamarans can make it over here. We met a couple sailing Gulliver G across the Atlantic. GG is a Nicholson 32, and it was first sailed across by Clare Francis in the mid 70's making her the first solo female to cross the Atlantic. Amazing that the little boat has done it again, and incredible how many records have been broken in the last 30 years. <br />
Some yachts further south of us, off the CV's had rogue waves that knocked them over sideways, almost to 90 degrees. Everyone's experience is subjective, so you never know if you are just being a big girls blouse or a hero in the conditions. I don't think I would describe it as a pleasant passage, but luckily we all have short memories, so it wouldn't stop me doing it again. In Barbados all arriving yachts agreed it had been a boisterous passage, and this was upheld by a couple of people who had sailed over in different boats and different years. Climate change or just the luck of the draw – who knows. I'd never appreciated that gale force and hurricane force winds battering the west coast of Ireland would send their swell all the way south to our route, but there were 2 large depressions in the North Atlantic during our passage across, so maybe they accounted for the cross swell. It certainly didn't live down to it's nickname of 'The Pond' for us. <br />
Three weeks of not being able to put down your cup, or knife and fork or plate, without the contents and the cup working their way to the floor within seconds is pretty wearing on the nerves. Having to move around the boat moving from one hand hold to the next while balancing a bouncing cup of tea is not much fun. A stable platform for dinner seems such a luxury after the passage. <br />
Day by day the miles to go reduced and all of a sudden, Christmas day, New Year, and half way had passed by without much celebration. Sometime around New Years eve Stu got a strike on the fishing line, and with much effort hauled on board a gigantic yellow fin tuna. It weighed in about 22kg, and took all Stu's effort to stay on board while he 'dealt with it'. Blood and guts ran over the sidedecks, scales and clots in the ropes that run along the decks. Hmmm. I had a vegetarian snack while all that was going on, in between being the surgeons assistant, handing gaff, knives, alcohol (to kill it quickly via the gills), all the while the swell making it difficult to walk, let alone take the requisite camera footage, and sail the boat. Well it provided many kilos of filleted tuna to add to the vacuum packed meat in the fridge. We were seriously over-catered now. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--b-cP7UmNw8/Ty2QoNddQ4I/AAAAAAAABxM/TL-AMJQnWOk/s1600/22kg+Yellow+fin+tuna.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--b-cP7UmNw8/Ty2QoNddQ4I/AAAAAAAABxM/TL-AMJQnWOk/s1600/22kg+Yellow+fin+tuna.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-879Smfk2PFA/Ty2QaNL73eI/AAAAAAAABw8/kzlEg1uGMpQ/s1600/Tuna+for+supper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-879Smfk2PFA/Ty2QaNL73eI/AAAAAAAABw8/kzlEg1uGMpQ/s320/Tuna+for+supper.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Once we arrived in Barbados we were pleased to have extra provisions, as the island is really expensive for basics. I'm not sure how the locals afford to live there. <br />
Flying fish (yes they really do fly) were abundant, and often landed on the deck flapping at night, somewhat stunned and confused by the sudden appearance of an obstacle in the their flight path. I found one stuck to the spinnaker halyard in a comic pose of 'splat'. They are eaten in Barbados, but we never bothered with them , as they are quite bony and small, and we usually found them dehydrated and smelly. <br />
The days ticked by and really before we knew it we were getting close to land. It looked like Surrey.<br />
It was bliss to sail into the flat water downwind of the island and drop anchor off the white sand beach. Never had a landfall felt so good. <br />
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Notes on provisioning<br />
Most of us ladies were fretting about how much to buy, and there are no hard and fast rules, and lots of advice in books and on the internet. I started provisioning in Greece and Italy, buying local inexpensive long-life stuff like sun-dried tomatoes, vacuum packed feta and parmesan, salami. In Spain we flash-mobbed Mercadona in Almerimar and stocked up on tinned olives, capers, tuna, fruit juice, dried beans, veg in oil, pasta etc. In Lanzarote we did the same in LIDL, and topped up in Las Palmas Mercadona supermarkets until there was no space left in any locker. It will all be more expensive in the Caribbean, and we love to savour the Med flavours for as long as possible.<br />
(NB buy more tinned tomatoes – fresh ones a fortune in the Caribbean)<br />
We also bought lots of cured meat, vacuum packed and refrigerated it should last for months. It's hard to know when to stop, as you have to push all this weight through the water 2000 miles with your sails. That is the advantage of a heavy weight cruising boat over a catamaran or a light weight plastic boat- you can load it up for a round-the-world voyage, even if you are just going on a weekend cruise. <br />
Our last minute fresh produce came from La Gomera in the market. We would normally try to buy produce that has not seen a fridge, as it lasts longer. The market ladies say that everything is a little bit chilled on the island, as it has to get there first. Despite this, and 28 degree heat inside the boat, all bar the tomatoes lasted surprisingly well. <br />
NB 8th Feb, just found one lonely perfect lemon in foil and finished the potatoes. Onions still going.<br />
PS The La Gomera butchers' vacuum packing was dire. We double wrapped all the meat tightly in cling film to improve it's chances. We binned some beef, but then we had had to eat 22kg of tuna – see below.<br />
What I bought:<br />
3 gem lettuces (refrigerated – should have bought more)<br />
6 green apples (should have bought more)<br />
6 leeks (kept well in basket,wrapped in kitchen roll )<br />
3 cucumbers (kept OK in basket, wrapped in kitchen roll)<br />
3kg red and green tomatoes (erupted into mould in phases and had to be sorted and eaten quickly, refrigerated when space allowed)<br />
1 head celery (lasted well wrapped in kitchen roll in basket)<br />
2kg lemons (washed in bleach, rinsed, dried and wrapped in foil – some still went mouldy)<br />
1kg limes, lasted well in kitchen roll. <br />
5kg potatoes (still eating them weeks after passage)<br />
4kg onions (still eating them now)<br />
2kg red onions (lasted for passage, but not much longer)<br />
1kg carrots (lasted well wrapped in kitchen roll in basket)<br />
48 eggs ( eating them long after the passage, unrefrigerated)<br />
2 bunches of green bananas (hanging in shade)– went yellow, then black, then melted all at same time <br />
Green and red peppers (lasted very well, hung by stalks in a net (curtain netting) sling, contiuned to ripen)<br />
Aubergines ( as above, taste improves as they dry)<br />
Chillis (as above) <br />
3 green cabbage, 1 red ( lasted whole passage but we didn't eat any)<br />
3 double breasts chicken (vacuum packed, refrigerated)<br />
1kg pork fillet, unsliced (vacuum packed, refrigerated)<br />
6x 500g beef, unsliced, (vacuum packed, refrigerated)<br />
1 large leg of ham (still being eaten and not mouldy)<br />
Bacon and pancetta ++++++, vacuum packed cured meat, refrigerated. <br />
Chorizos and salami, hung in shady airy place. <br />
<br />
What we cooked :<br />
Watercress and white bean potage (made before passage)<br />
Chilli con carne (made before passage)<br />
Minestone soup<br />
Chicken curry (made before passage)<br />
Spanish tortilla (lunch)<br />
Chicken fajitas<br />
BLT (lunch)<br />
Singapore noodles<br />
Bacon & egg sandwich (lunch)<br />
Chicken salad<br />
Stuffed roast pork and roast vegetables (Christmas day)<br />
Tuna cooked in lime and coconut milk<br />
Seared tuna with salad<br />
Tuna and genoese mushroom sauce <br />
Tuna with pink ginger and wasabi<br />
Portuguese tuna stew<br />
Tuna stew ala Clare&Tony, HMG<br />
Corn chips with cheese, guacamole and jalapino peppers<br />
Bacon chilli and tomato pasta. <br />
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Favourite products :<br />
LIDL wholemeal bread mix – needs no kneading<br />
Spanish tortillas (potato and onion) in longlife plastic packs <br />
<br />
Stu's wisdom and comments.<br />
The tuna lasted 6 days before less than perfect refrigeration took effect and we were forced to return to beef etc. I fished again and within 30 mins had a strike from some monster of the deep. It bent the rod holder and took nearly ½ a kilometre of line on maximum brake, I was sweating just to hold it. With the rod bent at 90 deg, a final surge and whatever it was went it's own way. An inspection of the lure later revealed 2 hooks on each of the two trebles bent almost straight. I reckon it was at least double the size of the last tuna. You don't need that much lively meat on board. There is no telling what will take the lure. It was the same lure I used to catch 3 to 4 kg fish. Most people we met lost their lures and line in these circumstances so I made the conclusion that heavy gear and lightly built hooks mean the cost of hooking a big monster is limited to a couple of bent hooks. That's my theory. <br />
Technical stuff:<br />
We didn't use the engine much at all. 1 hour to get out the marina and fuel dock. 1 hour anchoring, and another 2 to 3 hours for charging on passage,after making water with the watermaker. Our total engine hours amounted to 4.6 hours and diesel usage for the passage was about 10 litres. Other power sources : Solar panels 280 watts of panels, aero4gen and aqua4 gen towed generator. The solar panels performed OK but I would estimate about ½ the total Ah that I got in summer in the Med. The boat is rolling a lot so don’t expect them to point at the sun much, also there was more cloud than in the Med and the days are much shorter and the nights much longer. The wind gen performed as well as it always has. Not much but steady, obviously reduced output when running directly down wind. Towed Gen(the TOAD): When first deployed at 5 to 7 knots the output surged from 2 to 8 amps at 12v as we surged down the waves. This was the most continuous input however we had a lot of problems with the rope twisting into knots and reducing the output to almost zero. Recovery to untangle is a fight and don't think for one moment you are simply going to turn up wind and stop to recover the propeller with twin poled out head sails and 20 knots in 4m seas. Some type of hoop, large enough to go over the knots but small enough not to go over the blades with a float attached, clipped around the spinning rope and released to pull back with water pressure and eventually stall the prop, followed with some strenuous pulling with gloved hands will retrieve the prop. Untangling was easy, uncouple the onboard end and pay out to trail behind then retrieve when unwound. If you are going to use one of these and thinking of an ocean passage you need to try it out to find how much rope and how much weight you need to keep it in the water, It's a hard call as you are unlikely to see swells and sea state similar until you are on the way. Take extra weights for the prop with you. Also you can't fish when it's out so you will want to recover it at speed.<br />
Running repairs:<br />
All boats break when used. The harder you use it the more it will break. Through preparation, testing and replacing or adjusting things that were not perfect beforehand we reduced repairs to a minimum. On our crossing and at times of rough weather, when things work hardest and break, you will be limited in time, energy, sleep deprived brain power or resources to do anything other than the absolute most basic repairs. I can assure you something as simple as cutting 20cm off a chafed jib sheet and re tying it in 20 knots rolling from gunnel to gunnel in the dark whilst surging down 4m waves, is about the limit. Tightening a few bolts from inside the back locker, of course you have to empty it first, was another job at the limit of tolerable. <br />
As always the most common problem overall was auto-helms. They are never tested or even built to do the job of ocean crossing. Not to mention the power they consume. Personally I think the only answer is to have a secondary system built in to switch to when the first one fails. We have the Aires and auto-helm. You can't start repairing the original if you are steering with it!!<br />
Chafe. The pole ends nearly chafed through the sheets on several occasions. That one I hadn't thought of. The rest is obvious. If it rubs it will wear out. Prepare for it and think through what might happen if it breaks, e.g. consider lazy sheets, additional chafe protection.<br />
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Steph's wisdom?<br />
Was it worth it? You bet!<br />
<br />
PS There is a video of parts of the passage. Stu promises to edit it. Don't hold your breath.Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-57640704030489772562011-12-18T01:59:00.001+02:002011-12-18T02:15:39.132+02:00Canary Islands, Lanzarote, Gran Canaria, La GomeraAfter a particularly lumpy (beam on) passage from Madeira we arrived at Lanzarote. Great island with awesome volcanic landscape, and we had a free anchorage at Puerto de Naos in Arrecife, which unexpectedly turned out to be a very pleasant Spanish ( sorry Canarian) town. Janet joined us for 10 days and we explored the weird and wonderful landscape, extinct volcanoes, lava fields and tunnels and architecture c/o Cesar Manrique, by car and bus. Enjoy the photos :<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lry0y2jwPc0/TupJGoxA2pI/AAAAAAAABsY/tqs7otauZJc/s1600/Lanzarote+Volcanic+park.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="146" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lry0y2jwPc0/TupJGoxA2pI/AAAAAAAABsY/tqs7otauZJc/s320/Lanzarote+Volcanic+park.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Volcanoes, thankfully extinct</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LyGmE6lNA5o/Tup4km2oCQI/AAAAAAAABvc/b8OBgHKaAHo/s1600/Lanzarote+Graciosa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LyGmE6lNA5o/Tup4km2oCQI/AAAAAAAABvc/b8OBgHKaAHo/s320/Lanzarote+Graciosa.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Graciosa</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8e8wY4lhvmY/Tup5NxIhgKI/AAAAAAAABwE/oWTPIIZib0M/s1600/Lanzarote+vineyards.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8e8wY4lhvmY/Tup5NxIhgKI/AAAAAAAABwE/oWTPIIZib0M/s320/Lanzarote+vineyards.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vines, in individual wind bunkers. No wonder it's so expensive!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ex7i6L8xQ3g/Tup5e4FVJdI/AAAAAAAABwU/damA6rcDiNs/s1600/Manriques+house+Lanzarote.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ex7i6L8xQ3g/Tup5e4FVJdI/AAAAAAAABwU/damA6rcDiNs/s320/Manriques+house+Lanzarote.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Architects have the best swimming holes - this one is in a lava tunnel</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--qXLIDIdcrk/Tup4luP8U9I/AAAAAAAABvk/2m9Z1YQVTcM/s1600/Lanzarote+surf+rocks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--qXLIDIdcrk/Tup4luP8U9I/AAAAAAAABvk/2m9Z1YQVTcM/s320/Lanzarote+surf+rocks.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Never underestimate your landfall!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Qb_wCQGrKt8/Tup5FMDI33I/AAAAAAAABv8/XxbhTIWhNlU/s1600/Lanzarote+Surf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Qb_wCQGrKt8/Tup5FMDI33I/AAAAAAAABv8/XxbhTIWhNlU/s320/Lanzarote+Surf.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoy the surf when you are not on board your yacht...</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
In the volcanic park we met the guy with the <i>best job in the whole world</i>. How could you get bored pouring water into a hole, to make a geyser explode for the delight and fright of tourists from around the world. I have a great video of it, but it's upside down thanks to my smart-ass phone and one day I will work out how to right it and post it here.<br />
It's really cool and he can't stop grinning. I want that job.<br />
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<br />
Gran Canaria, Las Palmas, saw the departure of the ARC, Atlantic Rally for Cruisers. Happy to watch the 210 boats sail over the horizon with all their hype and market created paraphernalia, the cash tills singing love songs as they left, creating their own credit crisis in their wake. See the boat leaving to cross the Atlantic fully prepared with sun loungers ready on deck :<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6IkX_c2KOuE/TupyyZy8aEI/AAAAAAAABtI/6O3SpLQN3pw/s1600/ARC+some+are+more+prepared+than+others.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="147" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6IkX_c2KOuE/TupyyZy8aEI/AAAAAAAABtI/6O3SpLQN3pw/s320/ARC+some+are+more+prepared+than+others.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZMVvDAFKB-U/Tup09ZZM7VI/AAAAAAAABuw/CfojthffaE0/s1600/The+ARC+departs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZMVvDAFKB-U/Tup09ZZM7VI/AAAAAAAABuw/CfojthffaE0/s320/The+ARC+departs.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Steph's mum had an exciting holiday on board here. Narrowly missing a impromptu swim in the harbour, as the boat rolled in the Atlantic swell. Stu rugby tackled her into the dinghy and all was well! Crisis averted.<br />
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Next stop La Gomera. We can't recommend it highly enough. Beautiful scenery - rocky coastal paths (read we did an 8 hour walk) enormous 25km downhill cycles ( we took the bus to the top), gruelling uphill cycling ( 3 hours in lowest gear, got the route wrong), and fab walking in rain forest with cedar trees, mossy paths, perpetual mists, emerging into cactus, date palm and goat country.<br />
The terrain is so severe here, that the locals developed a whistling language of 4000 words to communicate across the barrachos or ravines, as they are impassible (hence the 8 hour walk!)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gaqydZLE3mY/TupWPdtR5dI/AAAAAAAABs8/EVjgFVz8AyA/s1600/Views+La+Gomera.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="170" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gaqydZLE3mY/TupWPdtR5dI/AAAAAAAABs8/EVjgFVz8AyA/s320/Views+La+Gomera.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Sp3A-upXH5g/TupTGlC76ZI/AAAAAAAABs0/0jrZ9MaWWhU/s1600/Views+La+Gomera+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="90" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Sp3A-upXH5g/TupTGlC76ZI/AAAAAAAABs0/0jrZ9MaWWhU/s320/Views+La+Gomera+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d4qEumKUCa8/TupzqRuvUoI/AAAAAAAABtw/Vz5liD_0EoQ/s1600/Goats+Cactus+and+Date+Palms+La+Gomera.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="222" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d4qEumKUCa8/TupzqRuvUoI/AAAAAAAABtw/Vz5liD_0EoQ/s320/Goats+Cactus+and+Date+Palms+La+Gomera.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zu_kjMNcNCc/TupzwWyAqOI/AAAAAAAABt4/R3OeJV6y9BY/s1600/Forest+cycle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="209" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zu_kjMNcNCc/TupzwWyAqOI/AAAAAAAABt4/R3OeJV6y9BY/s320/Forest+cycle.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tWqp1FtdK5k/Tup0EfxeDhI/AAAAAAAABuA/kvjngOEkl4g/s1600/La+Gomera+bike+fix.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="159" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tWqp1FtdK5k/Tup0EfxeDhI/AAAAAAAABuA/kvjngOEkl4g/s320/La+Gomera+bike+fix.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DLx77Ehb1A8/Tup0z7iiKDI/AAAAAAAABuo/2hjitYUhWSg/s1600/San+Sebastian.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="132" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DLx77Ehb1A8/Tup0z7iiKDI/AAAAAAAABuo/2hjitYUhWSg/s320/San+Sebastian.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CzhwlxrMlwU/Tup1I3DQvMI/AAAAAAAABvA/mPHWJaYhNKU/s1600/The+road+from+hell+La+Gomera+Vallehermoso.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="237" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CzhwlxrMlwU/Tup1I3DQvMI/AAAAAAAABvA/mPHWJaYhNKU/s320/The+road+from+hell+La+Gomera+Vallehermoso.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The uphill!!!!!!!1350m ascent</td></tr>
</tbody></table>So, not really feeling that we have done La Gomera proper justice, we are off again, but it is high on the list of places to spend more time in....someday.<br />
<br />
We have shopped and stowed, shopped and stowed all the way out of the Med, then eaten 90% of what we bought for the crossing. Now every locker is stuffed to the brim and there are bags and baskets all over the boat,nowhere to sleep, so I guess it is time to cast off tomorrow and head out to sea. Maybe Cape Verdes ( where there will be national mourning for the loss of their most famous singer) or if conditions are right we will turn to starboard (right for landlubbers) and head for the rum factory in Barbados. Perhaps the worlds second best job !!!<br />
Gotta go, yet another group of old guys with guitars has just turned up outside to play folkloric songs in return for a warming glass of something.Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-4011945826524912872011-10-26T18:37:00.000+03:002011-10-26T18:37:21.028+03:00Atlantic Islands, Madeira and Porto SantoWe escaped the cool and mouldy Rock of Gibraltar and made a slow 5 ½ day passage to Porto Santo and Madeira. We had very light winds, and didn't see many ships, so it was quite a boring introduction to offshore Atlantic sailing. Stu saw two whales, but as usual I missed them ( I think he makes it up). I read 2 books and had a really sore bum from sitting around day and night. Must find a way to adapt the yoga routine to the small and constantly moving cockpit. <br />
Stu got so bored he investigated the plumbing under the floor. First he found a crab living in the pipe, which must have got too fat to get back out through the strainer. We kept him in a pot (to save him from swimming to the bottom of the ocean 4000m below) and gave him fresh sea water and a piece of fish as big as himself, but he escaped in the night and has not been found since. You just can't please some crabs can you. <br />
Second Stu found a pipe fitting that had cracked slightly and was sucking air into the fridge intake, so he spent a whole day lying on the galley floor pondering that repair. He felt lucky to have found it early, as failure of the fitting could have been a wet sinking feeling (although it would only have leaked slowly) . <br />
Anyway we arrived at Porto Santo, not feeling too bad despite the deprivation of full nights of sleep. We got the bikes out to counteract the sore bum feeling, but managed to cycle the entire island in a lot under one day. It really is a one horse island. Nice beach though and very slow pace of life. Too slow, even for us gypsies of the sea. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qTRg5GV7qQs/Tqgh9uxjbTI/AAAAAAAABrM/nAVwPEi3GZU/s1600/Quinto+do+Lorder+marina.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="168" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qTRg5GV7qQs/Tqgh9uxjbTI/AAAAAAAABrM/nAVwPEi3GZU/s320/Quinto+do+Lorder+marina.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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We slowly wobbled in more light winds over to Madeira and came straight into the Quinta Do Lorde marina. They sure know how to charge for their marina, and anything else they can come up with, but if you want to see Madeira, there's not many other options, as anchoring off is a very rolly experience and Funchal harbour is permanently full. So we booked in for a week and tried not to think about the bank balance. We did a days walk that involved 5 bus journeys, and after that hired a car for 2 days to see more of the island. It is very stunning and beautiful, so now we know why it attracts so many people on walking holidays. It is an old volcanic island, and being high and surrounded by the Atlantic ocean, gets a lot of rain and mist. Cunningly they built levadas or water channels all around the hills, so that the rain is collected and used to irrigate the very fertile volcanic soil. This makes for a very pleasant green island, lots of exotic foliage, and good walking opportunities, as the levada tracks all over the island have been restored and preserved. It is a lot like walking in NZ, except that the bird life in NZ is much more lively and noisy. We did find this little robin enjoying his worm though. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxLPYxGjkFOBjcxpRDCfOLI5Zkn5cYJfP9hYOFI1zhec05Jb_JbNBtePSkND8_ro64Zqxs7TynA9RHqkNJzKA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br />
So enjoy the photos. We have to move on tomorrow to go to La Graciosa island just north of Lanzarote. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3Jp5AXiPTeo/Tqge_9Gi-nI/AAAAAAAABqk/_iSQqNrWjiU/s1600/092+Madeira+mists.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3Jp5AXiPTeo/Tqge_9Gi-nI/AAAAAAAABqk/_iSQqNrWjiU/s320/092+Madeira+mists.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y52QrSYjshA/TqggIEhiMnI/AAAAAAAABqs/NccSfa03TTE/s1600/094+Madeira+north+coast.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y52QrSYjshA/TqggIEhiMnI/AAAAAAAABqs/NccSfa03TTE/s320/094+Madeira+north+coast.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GLQgc8eXAIQ/TqggMBnoQyI/AAAAAAAABq0/PVe4F3zfNXo/s1600/098+Madeira+north+coast.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GLQgc8eXAIQ/TqggMBnoQyI/AAAAAAAABq0/PVe4F3zfNXo/s320/098+Madeira+north+coast.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jNVys2VExTM/TqgikLrZGuI/AAAAAAAABrU/J4H8mwEK9Yw/s1600/Madeira+East+end.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jNVys2VExTM/TqgikLrZGuI/AAAAAAAABrU/J4H8mwEK9Yw/s320/Madeira+East+end.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Qzh6S-7C0G4/Tqgiss1dtOI/AAAAAAAABrc/laMBU5q_rHw/s1600/Levada+waterfalls.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Qzh6S-7C0G4/Tqgiss1dtOI/AAAAAAAABrc/laMBU5q_rHw/s320/Levada+waterfalls.jpg" width="214" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3v2L8H163J8/Tqghc7xcaxI/AAAAAAAABrE/sXao7IbgpgU/s1600/Levada+walk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3v2L8H163J8/Tqghc7xcaxI/AAAAAAAABrE/sXao7IbgpgU/s320/Levada+walk.jpg" width="214" /></a>Water water everywhere.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Lh1o_4Bj0KQ/Tqggk3denRI/AAAAAAAABq8/CWQKhFj7niU/s1600/050+Levada+walk+long+way+down.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Lh1o_4Bj0KQ/Tqggk3denRI/AAAAAAAABq8/CWQKhFj7niU/s320/050+Levada+walk+long+way+down.jpg" width="240" /></a>Long way down!</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QD99vsWCROk/TqgdO8EkLEI/AAAAAAAABqE/lIQmYCwNhws/s1600/030+Funchal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QD99vsWCROk/TqgdO8EkLEI/AAAAAAAABqE/lIQmYCwNhws/s320/030+Funchal.jpg" width="261" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ALISApBzqEI/TqgefavQ0yI/AAAAAAAABqc/ye4sh85v4hM/s1600/036+madeira+wine+sampling.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ALISApBzqEI/TqgefavQ0yI/AAAAAAAABqc/ye4sh85v4hM/s320/036+madeira+wine+sampling.jpg" width="320" /></a>It has to be done!</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cC3rV-qeF34/TqgeXlIp2ZI/AAAAAAAABqQ/hKfYfdvlHuU/s1600/037+expensive+madeira+barrel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cC3rV-qeF34/TqgeXlIp2ZI/AAAAAAAABqQ/hKfYfdvlHuU/s320/037+expensive+madeira+barrel.jpg" width="320" /></a>This barrel of 3200 litres, costs 600 euros a bottle. So this one barrel is worth 2.5 million!!! We didn't get to taste this one. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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Track our position through the winlink link in the top right corner of the screen.Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-231407526587263342.post-21228599660080189192011-09-24T02:50:00.000+03:002011-09-24T02:50:48.962+03:00Fish 'n' chips 'n' English beerOoh our blog is so out of date. We are now suffering English weather (well not really cold) fog, cloud, damp, and now rain. Sea 17 degrees and totally unswimmable. <br />
Well we have plenty of other things to do. Gibraltar is at least a place where we share the same sort of values with the local vendors, and they speak the same language. In general the cost of getting stuff here duty free plus shipping is about the same as paying full RRP and VAT, but at least you can get it, and it seems you don't have to bribe the customs officials to get your goods that you have genuinely ordered for your yacht in transit. And they probably won't go missing forever...<br />
La Linea anchorage is safe and fantastic on the Spanish side and no-one in the last 2 weeks has been forced to leave the anchorage (as previously has happened according to blogs). The Spanish YC looks after your dinghy for 5E per day if you want to go ashore, and walk across the border to Gib. <br />
After 5 days at anchor, we came into the marina to get boaty stuff done (diesel tank clean, liferaft service, batteries tested) and haven't left since. World Cup rugby on in the bar most mornings (very healthy apart from the English Breakfasts), Morrisons just up the road - cheddar cheese, marmite, Thai crackers, real bacon.... the yum list goes on and on. You guys in UK and NZ just don't know what side your bread is buttered - we have been seriously deprived in the Med. A short stop in Gib will help to fill our lockers for the next 5 years with unusual stuff to alleviate the boredom associated with local exotic foods that go on a tad too long. Long live : Marmite, Vegemite, Mango chutney, Thai curry mix, Cup a soup ( I kid you not), sweet chilli sauce, lime cordial. <br />
It is hard to understand when you can just go to your local Tesco/Sainsbury and buy whatever you want, but we do appreciate our short period of gluttony and availabilty. I have never bought convenience food before, but faced with 5 - 30 days at sea in rolling waves, I've coming to the conclusion that eventually they may have a place in our day to day kitchen. So bring on the bechamel sauce in tetrapak. Never would have been seen dead with it in my Waitrose basket before. To understand, try cooking your next meal with one hand and on one leg. And then wash all your utensils in sea water. <br />
Now I know why we don't have any visitors...Steph and Stuart Mortonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07806670049135467859noreply@blogger.com0